The jaws are jammed in the screwdriver chuck

Causes of the defect does not clamp the bit

Based on the experience of our service engineers, we can identify the following reasons:

• Untimely prevention and cleaning of the device
• Lack of protection against power outages
• Replacing Consumable Accessories
• Not carefully studying the user manual or ignoring the manufacturer's advice.
• Not careful use

Bring your equipment to our service centers or call the technicians to your home and we will repair it and provide a guarantee. Afterwards, the faulty device will work at 100 percent (full). Addresses of Umedia services in all districts of St. Petersburg.

Types of cartridges

Today there are two main types of cartridges available for sale:

• Quick-clamping
• Cam

Keyless chucks have another classification:

Such cartridges are made from two types of material:

• Metal;
• Plastics;

Using a plastic product is a good opportunity to reduce the weight of the equipment used, but this material is not reliable enough and is not resistant to shock loads. Keyless chucks can be used for both household and professional tasks.

Jaw chucks are more reliable, durable and can withstand greater impact loads, which is not unimportant for screwdrivers with an impact function.

Where can I get it repaired in St. Petersburg?

Location: In the shopping center Trading yard Archimedes, 1st floor, room 7A. Nearest addresses - Metro: Politekhnicheskaya, Ploshchad Muzhestva; Avenues: Sciences, Civil Invictus, Northern; Streets: Vernost, Butlerova, Gzhatskaya, Favorskogo, Karpinskogo. .

Metro station:

Academic

—> Working hours:

from 10.30 to 20.00

Location: On the 2nd floor in the Morskoy shopping center. Nearest addresses - Metro: Vasileostrovskaya, Primorskaya; Avenues: Morskaya Embankment, Vasileostrovsky; Streets: Korablestroiteley, Nalichnaya, Uralskaya. .

Metro station:

Primorskaya

—> Working hours:

from 10.00 to 20.00 (7 days a week)

Location: Entrance from the parking lot. 6 steps up. Nearest addresses - Metro: Kupchino, Zvezdnaya; Avenues: Vitebsky, Slavy, Danube; Addresses: Sofia, Bukharestskaya, Malaya Balkanskaya, Oleko Dundicha, Budapestskaya, Kupchinskaya. .

Metro station:

Kupchino

—> Working hours:

Weekdays: from 10:00 to 20:00; Sat, Sun: from 10:00 to 18:00

Location: In shopping center Paktor (Bada Bum). 5 minutes from Ozerki metro station. Siqueiros, Yesenina, Vyborg highway, Thorez Avenue. .

Metro station:

Ozerki

—> Working hours:

Mon-Fri: from 10:00 to 20:00, Sat-Sun: from 10:00 to 19:00

Location: On the ground floor, section 015. Nearest addresses - Avenues: Bogatyrsky, Ispytatelei, Sizova, Streets: Tupolevskaya, Gakkelevskaya, Baikonurskaya, Staroderevenskaya. .

Metro station:

Pionerskaya

—> Working hours:

from 11:00 to 21:00 (Sat-Sun until 19:00)

Location: Entrance from Saperny Lane. Nearest addresses - Avenues: Liteiny, Suvorovsky, Nevsky, Ligovsky; Streets: Zhukovsky, Nekrasova, Vosstaniya, Radishcheva, Mayakovsky. .

Metro station:

Chernyshevskaya

—> Working hours:

Weekdays: from 10:00 to 20:00; Saturday: 10:00 – 19:00; Sun: 11:00 – 18:00

Location: On the 2nd floor of the Yugo-Zapad shopping center near Media Markt. Nearest addresses: Metro Kirovsky Zavod, Avtovo; Leninsky Avenue, Stachek; street Marshal Kazakov, Marshal Zakharov, Valor. .

Metro station:

Kirov plant

—> Working hours:

from 10.00 to 20.00 (7 days a week)

Location: On the 2nd floor in the Rzhevka shopping center, room No. 2-07b. Nearest addresses - Avenues: Irinovsky, Kosygina, Industrialny, Nastavnikov; Streets: Communes, Progressives, Enthusiasts, Shockers. .

Metro station:

Bolsheviks

—> Working hours:

from 11.00 to 20.00 (7 days a week)

Location: How to get there? Magnit store, checkout area, Umedia Serivis sign. Nearest addresses - Metro: Ploschad Muzhestva, Vyborgskaya, Chernaya Rechka; Avenues: Lesnoy, 1st Murinsky, Polyustrovsky, Bolshoi Sampsonievsky; Streets: Kantemirovskaya, Kharchenko, Litovskaya, Vyborgskaya. .

Metro station:

Lesnaya

—> Working hours:

from 10:00 to 20:00 (7 days a week)

Location: Entrance to the ground floor, near Magnit. Nearest addresses - Avenues: Severny, Prosveshcheniya, Lunacharsky; Streets: Kirishskaya, Toksovskaya, Luzhskaya, Ushinskogo, Kirishskaya. .

Metro station:

Civil Prospect

—> Working hours:

from 10.00 to 20.00 (7 days a week)

Location: on the 2nd floor. Neighbors FIX-PRICE. Nearest addresses - Metro: Bukharestskaya, Mezhdunarodnaya; Avenues: Slavy, Vitebsk; Addresses: Sofia, Salova, Bela Kuna, Fucik, Budapest, Paris, Turku. .

Metro station:

International

—> Working hours:

from 10.00 to 20.00

Location: Two end entrances to the Magnit Cosmetic Store. Nearest addresses - Avenues: Novgorodsky, Vitebsky, Moskovsky Streets: Shkolnaya, Pushkinskaya, Okulovskaya.

Metro station:

Shushary

—> Working hours:

Mon-Fri: from 10.00 to 20.00; Sat: from 11.00 to 19.00; Sun: closed

Location: In the Cosmos shopping center, 2nd floor. Nearest addresses - Avenues: Kolomyazhsky, Bogatyrsky, Ispytatelei, Korolev; Streets: Parashutnaya, Gakkelevskaya, Staroderevenskaya, Planernaya, Sharova, Dolgoozernaya. .

Metro station:

Komendantsky Avenue

—> Working hours:

from 10:00 to 20:00 (7 days a week)

Location: Second floor of the Pyaterochka store. Nearest addresses - Avenues: Levashovsky, Chkalovsky, Petrovsky, Dobrolyubova, Kamennoostrovsky; Streets: Zhdanovskaya, Bolshaya Pushkinskaya, Bolshaya Zelenina, Lenina. .

Metro station:

Chkalovskaya

—> Working hours:

Mon-Fri from 10:00 to 20:00, Sat-Sun from 11:00 to 19:00

Location: On the 1st floor in the Plovdiv shopping center, near the cash register area. Nearest addresses - Metro: Park Pobedy, Mezhdunarodnaya, Moskovskaya; Avenues: Vitebsky, Cosmonauts; Streets: Tipanova, Titova, Baseinaya. .

Metro station:

Moscow

—> Working hours:

from 10.00 to 20.00 (7 days a week)

Location: Front entrance from Valor. Nearest addresses - Avenues: Leninsky, Kuznetsova, Geroev, Peterhofskoe highway; Streets: Valor, Marshal Kazakov, Marshal Zakharov, .

Metro station:

Leninsky Prospekt

—> Working hours:

Mon-Fri: from 10.00 to 20.00; Sat: from 11.00 to 18.00; Sun: closed

Location: On the 2nd floor of the Termin shopping center. Nearest addresses - Metro: Dybenko, Bolshevikov; Avenues: Dalnevostochny, Podvoisky, Iskrovsky, Tovarishchesky; Streets: Dybenko, Antonova Ovseenko, Oktyabrskaya embankment, Podvoisky. .

Metro station:

Dybenko

—> Working hours:

from 10.00 to 20.00 (7 days a week)

Determining the mounting method

Note that fastening is carried out by three methods:

• Morse taper;
• using a fixation bolt;
• thread.

The Morse cone got its name from the name of its creator, who invented it in the 19th century. The connection is made by interlocking the parts of the cone with the hole and the shaft due to the identical cone shape. This type of fastening is used in a variety of cases due to its reliability and simplicity.

In the case of threads, they are usually cut into the chuck and shaft. And the alignment is carried out by screwing it onto the shaft.

The last option is an “improved” threaded mount. To make the connection as reliable as possible, it should be fixed using a bot. Usually the screw is taken under a Phillips screwdriver with a thread on the left. The screw becomes accessible only when the cams are fully opened.

If we talk about determining the fastening method, then this usually happens during a visual inspection. For example, the markings on a Morse cone are usually 1-6 B22. In this case, the first numbers will be the diameter of the nozzle tail that is used, and the second number will be the size of the cone itself.

In the case of a threaded connection, an alphanumeric designation is also available. For example, it will look like 1.0 - 11 M12x1.25. The first half indicates the diameter of the nozzle shank that is used, and the second indicates the metric size of the thread. If the screwdriver is manufactured abroad, the value will be indicated in inches.

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Source: remont3.ru

Screwdriver and its design features

You should start repairing a screwdriver yourself by becoming familiar with its design. The main element of a screwdriver is an electric motor. Screwdrivers come in both corded and cordless types. The use of a corded screwdriver is used less frequently, due to such a disadvantage as the need to connect the tool to a 220V network. Battery-type tools are more popular, as they allow you to carry out not only repair work at home, but also outside it.

The main components of a cordless screwdriver are:

1. Frame. Typically, all screwdrivers are made of durable plastic.
2. Start button. It is designed in such a way that the number of revolutions of the cartridge depends on the force of pressing it.
3. Electric motor. Battery-powered tools use single-phase commutator-type and DC motors. The motor consists of a rotor, a stator in the form of magnets, and a brush assembly.
4. Gearbox.
5. Force regulator.
6. Reverse switch.
7. Battery. As a rule, it is removable and is often supplied with the product in duplicate.
8. Cartridge. As a rule, quick-release chucks are used.

Some models are additionally equipped with LED backlights, as well as battery charging indicators. Returning to the problems with the screwdriver, it should be noted that any of the above elements can cause the tool to malfunction. What is needed for repairs? The first step is to find the cause of the breakdown, and then make the appropriate decision to eliminate it. The tool can be divided into two parts: electrical and mechanical. Initially, you need to find out what the problem is with the screwdriver not working: mechanical or electrical. This won’t be difficult to do, so let’s look at the breakdowns in more detail.

Mechanical faults

Mechanical malfunctions of screwdrivers can be identified by such a sign as the audibility of the operation of the electric motor. When you press the start button, you can hear signs of the electric motor running, but the tool chuck does not rotate or characteristic sounds of a malfunction are heard when rotating.

The design of the screwdriver is quite simple, but a significant drawback is that all the elements are almost 2-3 times smaller than those of an electric drill. Possible mechanical failures of a screwdriver include the following malfunctions:

• Cartridge failure. Despite the fact that quick-release chucks are more versatile and easier to use, their significant drawback is their low service life. It is impossible to repair the keyless chuck, so if the tool refuses to hold the drill or bit, the chuck should be removed and replaced with a new one. This is one of the most common malfunctions of the tool, but it does not require disassembling the screwdriver.

• Gearbox failure. The screwdrivers are equipped with a planetary type gearbox. Typically, in order to save money, manufacturers make gearbox gears from low-quality plastic or metal. This affects not only the power of the tool, but also its service life. If the engine runs when you press the “Start” button, but the cartridge does not rotate, then the problem lies precisely in the planetary gearbox. To find out the cause of its malfunction, you need to disassemble the tool and then determine the breakdown. If one gear fails, the gearbox should be replaced.
• Bearing wear. The bearing is located in the planetary gearbox, so it is replaced along with the gears.
• The force regulator is broken. This device in screwdrivers is used not only to increase or decrease the traction force of the tool, but also to increase safety. If during work the working attachment becomes jammed, then instead of turning the tool, the regulator will turn. Thus, the master will not get a dislocated arm, and the electric motor will be protected from high loads, from which it can burn out.

It should be noted that the small size of the mechanical part of the instrument somewhat complicates the process of instrument repair, so be sure to be careful when carrying out repair work.

Electrical faults

Unlike drills, screwdrivers operate primarily on batteries. This means that different electric motors are used in the design of these tools. It is not difficult to determine the malfunction of the electrical part of the screwdriver. If the battery is charged, but when you press the “Start” button you cannot hear the sound of the electric motor, then the cause is an electrical failure. Let's look at the main types of electrical faults in screwdrivers.

• Battery fault. Initially, you should pay attention to the battery. As a rule, screwdrivers use low-quality nickel-cadmium batteries. They have a significant drawback, which is the need to charge it only when it is completely dead. Such batteries cannot be recharged, as this shortens their service life. If one day the screwdriver refuses to function, then do not rush to disassemble it, make sure that the battery is functional and provides a charge. You can check by connecting a second battery. The battery charge can also be checked using a tester, which should show the appropriate voltage value.
• Charger fault. There is a special charger for charging the battery. If the battery is discharged even after you have charged it, you should check the integrity of the charger. Chargers usually have indicator lights for these purposes. If they are not there, then you need to use a multimeter.
• The power button is faulty. It is necessary to check the start button, since often the reason for its inoperability is oxidation of the contacts or dust. The tool should be disassembled and then the contacts should be cleaned. The buttons on screwdrivers usually have the function of regulating the speed of rotation of the chuck, for which a transistor is installed. If the tool works, but the speed control function is missing, then the transistor needs to be replaced.

• If the reverse function does not function, the breakdown can be corrected by cleaning the contacts of the polarity switch button.
• Motor malfunction. The electric motor is one of the most expensive structural elements of a screwdriver. If everything is checked and it is determined that the problem lies in the electric motor, then the cause should be found out. Most often, the problem occurs with brushes, which simply wear out over time. The brushes cannot be repaired, so they must be replaced. The armature should be replaced if a break is detected when testing its winding terminals. No one will rewind such a small rotor, so it’s easier to purchase a new unit. The stator of a permanent electric motor is presented in the form of 2-3 magnetic plates that do not fail.

Now you know the main signs and types of screwdriver malfunctions. To repair it, you don’t need to be a specialist, but just stock up on tools and free time.

How to remove and repair a screwdriver chuck with your own hands

Today, many people use a tool such as a screwdriver, so it is not surprising that there is a high demand for them. Very often the device breaks down, and the buyer rushes to a repair shop, paying money for repairs. You don’t always want to do this, of course, so in our article we will help you become more familiar with the design of a screwdriver. You can deal with some problems on your own.

We will look at various cases of screwdriver breakdowns, namely: we will deal with the most common breakdowns of such an important part of the tool as the chuck.

How to change a drill bit in a drill - we can do it ourselves!

It is not always possible to remove a drill from the chuck in the usual way - as a result of heavy load or improper fixation, it can jam the chuck. How to get a drill out of a drill without damaging the fastener and the tool itself? First of all, try to cool the cartridge thoroughly. Sometimes this is enough for the cams to release the drill a little and you can pull it out.

Screwdriver chuck: description, function

The cartridge is a metal cylinder with a cavity inside, equipped with a ring and a control sleeve. It is fixed to the shaft. With its help, the drill or grinding attachment is securely fixed in it for further work. The fixation of the working part of the tool (drill) is ensured by the thread. The drill is tightened in two ways. The first method is to tighten it with a special wrench; in the second method, the drill is tightened when the chuck is rotated in the direction opposite to the axis of rotation of the drill.

How to disassemble a screwdriver chuck

Despite the fact that today there are many models of screwdrivers on the market, they have the same general approach to removing such an element as a cartridge. Now we will briefly describe it.

In order to unscrew it, you need to remove the screw securing it to the shaft. It is located inside the cartridge; the screw should be rotated clockwise. After you have unscrewed the screw, you should jerk the cartridge in the opposite direction.

Attention! If you try to unscrew it manually, you must set the drill to second speed if it is two-speed. When purchasing a tool, it is advisable to lubricate the screw with machine oil. In some cases, when this element does not want to give in, then you should put the tool on first speed, hold it in your palm, and turn the reverse to the left. The cartridge should come off the thread easily.

How to replace a screwdriver chuck

It will not be easy for an untrained user to replace it, since without the help of a special tool you will not be able to do it with your bare hands. There are two ways in which it can be removed, and we will consider them further in our article. In order to change it, you should pay attention to the actions that we described in the article above. Dismantling is performed with the following tools:

• A hex key is usually a 10mm L-shaped metal rod. Its short part should be fixed in the chuck, the long part should be rested against something, for example, a table. We turn the cartridge, and then remove it by turning the key.

We looked at the dismantling method using a key. The method to remove the element manually is described above.

Chuck device

All models, including Zubr, Interskol, Caliber, Deko, Dewalt, have the same design, and the cartridges used may differ. The classic cartridge is a hollow metal cylinder . It has a ring with an adjusting sleeve, which is installed directly on the shaft. The chuck has an internal thread or a special cone designed for fixation to the shaft.

Chuck design

By design , cartridges are:

• quick-clamping (BZP);
• self-clamping;
• gear-crown (key).

The keyless chuck is designed simply. On the steel spindle there is a steel sleeve, the surface of which is grooved, so it is easy to hold. You don't need a special wrench to tighten it. The design of a cartridge in this category involves gradual loosening of the clamp.

The quick-clamping option is wear-resistant and reliable , making it safer to use. But if you actively exploit it, it will become unusable over time. The cams that hold the drill are triggered. The nozzles, which have a large diameter round tail, rotate and are difficult to tighten. This product requires replacement. The only disadvantage of this type of product is the higher cost when compared with the price of key sleeves.

The key cartridge is considered more reliable. Fastening occurs using a key. It holds the drill firmly. It is often used in professional electrical appliances because it is suitable for heavy, large-diameter nozzles.

A self-clamping chuck is a technically advanced type of product that does not require a special key. You don't need to put any effort into tightening it. You just need to turn and tighten the movable coupling a little. Some screwdrivers use chucks with one rotary coupling, while others use two. The latter option is convenient if you need to change working attachments frequently. For example, when you need to first drill and then tighten screws , you need to quickly remove and replace the drill with a bit, and vice versa.

Products with one coupling are suitable for devices with interlocks. In them, the blocker acts as a second clutch. You can install the part with one hand. In the absence of a blocker, cartridges with two couplings are used. Here it is installed with both hands.

The external elements of the self-clamping chuck are made of plastic, the main parts of the body are made of tool steel.

There is a special cartridge for bits - bit cartridge . It is mainly used to install bits, and when it is necessary to tighten or unscrew threaded fasteners:

• self-tapping screws;
• screws;
• nuts;
• bolts and so on.

Manufacturers produce an angled chuck that transmits torque to the bit. The position of the bit is adjusted using a special handle. The angle chuck is designed to work in hard-to-reach places.

Before removing the cartridge, you need to determine how to fix it

DIY screwdriver chuck repair

This is a moving element of the tool, which consists of many rubbing parts. During operation, it is subject to wear resulting from the action of friction forces, impact forces and other factors. The chuck's runout and excessive play can frighten an inexperienced craftsman. In some cases, it is not always possible to allocate the time or finances to contact a repair shop. Therefore, we will look at how you can do it yourself when repairing various tool malfunctions.

Repairing a screwdriver with your own hands when the chuck is loose

A small play within 1 mm usually does not create visible problems during operation. If the value is larger, you should pay attention to the condition of the gearbox. So, the procedure is as follows:

• Unscrew the bolts securing the top cover of the tool. Let's take it off.
• Unscrew the electric motor from the gearbox. We inspect the fastenings.
• Let's disassemble the gearbox. Often the cause of failure is a malfunction of the bushing located inside. It is possible to remove the bushing using the steps described at the beginning of the article (see how to remove the cartridge manually). The bushing is easily pressed out by hand.
• We are replacing the bushing. Then we assemble everything in the following sequence: bushing, shaft, bushing bearings, retaining ring. Lubricate the rubbing parts.
• After this, we assemble the gearbox in reverse order. We attach it to the electric motor.
• Assembling the screwdriver body.

Repairing a screwdriver with your own hands when the chuck runs out

The main culprit for this problem is the screwdriver gearbox. To make sure of this, you need to remove it by dismantling it in the above manner. This particular breakdown may indicate several problems in the gearbox, which we will indicate below. The reason may be:

• violation of the gearbox shaft geometry;
• production of gears;
• malfunction of the shaft support bearing;
• wear of the pins securing the satellites of the planetary gear.

The above parts are produced only in factories, so you won’t be able to make them yourself. All you have to do is purchase them and replace the broken ones.

Video: How to Insert a Drill Bit into a Bosch Drill

Pulling out and installing drill bits is much easier and faster when using a quick release chuck. In it, the sleeve is rotated manually. To limit cam force, they are often equipped with locking elements.

Before inserting the planter, first make sure the planter is in working order and disconnect it from the power source. Only then can you start training.

Types of Eyeless Cartridges

Installation of working tools on a hammer drill

As stated above, the hammer should be checked before installing the drill bit. To perform such a test, the perforation mode is set for non-combat drilling. If you hear and feel that the motor runs smoothly and without shock when you press the start button on the device, this means that the hammer can be used for its intended purpose after drilling or drilling.

To attach a straight shank drill bit to a hammer drill, use a jaw adapter

Before inserting a drill into a hammer drill, the shank of the working tool must be treated with a special lubricant that will protect it from corrosion. The procedure for installing drill bits in a drill is as follows.

1. The hammer drill is installed on the back of the floor or other hard surface.
2. The moving part of the clamping device is retracted.
3. The tool is inserted into the punch until it stops. In this case, the drill bit or insertion bit should be held vertically. If you do not comply with this requirement, you may experience breakage or even breakage of the tool, which can also cause the drill bit to malfunction.

Press until it clicks, then pull the drill out if it doesn't work. Everything is fine

Due to the fact that the chucks on modern hammer drills have a fairly simple operating principle, questions about how to get a drill from a hammer drill, as a rule, do not arise.

After removing a used tool from a hammer drill to replace it with another, it is recommended to immediately clean the shank of grease and construction dust. The drill bit you are going to insert should also be cleaned and pre-lubricated. The tool replaced in this way will not damage the impact mechanism and will last much longer.

Lubrication extends the life of both drill bit and bit

With a hammer drill, you can not only get a drilled structural element, but also perform processing using a special chisel. You can also set the device's mixer as an operating element.

Home workers also often have questions about how to insert a drill into a screwdriver or how to replace the cartridge on an impact drill. The first question is easy to solve, since the design of the screwdriver uses chucks of the same design as for drills and rotary hammers. But the question of how to correctly replace a cartridge with a hammer drill must be approached with skill: carrying out such a procedure without certain knowledge and skills is not easy.

Some tips for using drilling tools

To avoid the risk of injury to your health from flying tools or concrete chips, drilling operations must be carried out with all precautions. To ensure this safety, you should use safety glasses, gloves, earplugs or earplugs

Naturally, all work must be carried out in special clothing, which should not contain hanging elements that could be wound around the drill.

To prevent the power tool used for drilling from overheating, it should be rested regularly.

It is very important to insert the drill correctly (this must be done until the tool stops)

Two ways to compress a thin cartridge if the jaws extend just short of the shank

If a drill bit gets stuck in the wall while drilling, it should be removed without removing the tool from its surface. To do this, remove the drill bit from the hammer drill and insert another one with which you want to start breaking the wall around the drilled hole in it.

If the drill bit cannot be removed from the drill or hammer drill, it should be clamped in a vice and then pressed down with a hammer using a wooden spacer to press the jaws of the clamping mechanism. This can be helped by oil, a few drops of which are poured into the key cartridge.

Screwdriver chuck thread

Structurally, this movable element is fixed in the tool body in three ways:

• Fastening using Morse taper.
• Carving.
• Securing the set screw.

Fastening using a Morse cone has been known for a long time and consists of the following. The shaft has the shape of a cone, repeating the contours of the surface inside the cartridge - the same cone. By combining them in a certain way, a reliable connection is obtained.

Connecting the shaft to the chuck using a threaded connection consists of having a thread at the end of the shaft onto which a chuck with the same thread can be freely screwed.

The fixing screw is most often used as an additional fastener. Its head has notches for a Phillips screwdriver, as well as a left-hand thread. You can see this screw by unscrewing the cams that cover it.

To find out what kind of mount your tool has, you need to carefully inspect the body of the tool. Each type of fastening has its own designation. For example, this: 1–6 B 10 will mean that the cartridge is secured using a Morse taper of size B10, and nozzles with a shank diameter of 1 to 6 mm can be used for it. If you have the following entry: 1.0–11 M 12 x 1.25, you will know that you should use nozzles with shanks from 1 to 11 mm; the metric thread has a cross-section of 12 x 1.5 mm. Foreign manufacturers use indicators in inches, for example, 1.0–11 ½ – 20 UNF.

In this article, we examined the main problems that arise during the operation of the tool, and paid attention to such a critical component in the design of a screwdriver as the chuck. At the same time, we figured out how it is attached to the design of the screwdriver, gave some tips on how to repair it yourself, and also tried to outline ways to solve repair problems.

Source: pro-instrument.com

How to remove a drill from a screwdriver

Good day! In this article we will look at the question of how to remove a drill from a screwdriver . This question may arise both from an inexperienced user who has not yet learned all the functions of a screwdriver , as well as from experienced owners whose drill is clamped too tightly in the chuck.

For newbies

So, let's start with the simplest case - with inexperienced users. Screwdrivers have something called a torque regulator. It looks like a scale around the front of the screwdriver, which is right behind the chuck. There are numbers on it from 1 to 10, 15, 20 or even more - different for different models - and the last position on it is indicated in the form of a drill. If you rotate this regulator and set it opposite the special mark so that one of the numbers is next to it, then when a certain torque is reached, the cartridge will no longer rotate, but will begin to click. If you put it on a “drill”, then the screwdriver will try to twist with all its might, as much as the engine power allows it.

However, it is worth noting that with two-speed screwdrivers, at the second speed, even in the “drill” position, if the torque reaches a certain value, then a protective system is triggered, which simply turns off the current supply. At the very first speed, the screwdriver will also try to turn “to the last.”

And a beginner can start drilling or screwing screws, for example, when the torque regulator is set to one of the numbers, or the screwdriver is set to the second speed (and it is recommended to drill at it).

The drill can be clamped quite tightly, and as a result, when you start to release the drill or bit in the standard way (by turning on the reverse, holding the chuck and pressing the start button), either the torque limiter or the protective system may work.

Therefore, in such a situation, you just need to set the screwdriver to first speed and set the torque regulator to the “drill” position. On single-speed models, you only need to set the torque regulator to the “drill” position. Well, then again we unscrew it in the standard way.

How to remove and change the cartridge

If you are faced with replacing a cartridge, you should first understand the method of its fastening. To carry out the procedure with a minimum of effort, experts do not recommend overloading the screwdriver in everyday use. If you operate the tool continuously for fifteen minutes, the rotating parts may overheat and become firmly locked in the socket. Then it will be more difficult to replace. Experts recommend proven methods for removing the cartridge, described below:

• Unscrew the threaded fastener using an L-shaped hexagon, which every owner probably has. Next, you should insert a hexagon (size - 10 mm), place the short edge into the chuck and squeeze tightly in the jaws. After this, start and immediately turn off the device at low speeds so that the free edge hits the table slightly, thus loosening the thread and allowing you to unscrew the cartridge.
• If the cartridge is held on a thread with a fixing screw, then:
• Unscrew the screw with the left-hand thread in a clockwise direction.
• Then insert the hexagon into the cams, and with a quick movement of your hand or hammer, turn the free edge counterclockwise. Now you can unscrew the cartridge.
• If both methods didn't work:
• We take out the shaft on which the gearbox and cartridge are located from the open housing. To remove the cartridge you need to use a pipe wrench.
• To remove and change a cartridge with a Morse taper, you need to have a hammer with you, which will release the shank from the housing socket.

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How to replace the chuck - updating the drill

Most often, the cartridge is the first to become unusable in a drill. Dismantling it at home is not easy, but it is possible! The fastener is screwed onto the spindle itself, but in addition it is also secured with a bolt with a left-hand thread. In order to get it, you need to completely open the cartridge - it is inside. The whole difficulty of unscrewing it lies in the fact that many do not know about the left-hand thread, and when trying to unscrew it, they twist it even more, tear off the cap and eventually take it to the service center.

By unscrewing the bolt, you can also unscrew the cartridge itself, although this is not so easy to do. Some models have recesses at the base of the thread for a wrench - in this case, you can fix the spindle and unscrew the fasteners using a lot of force. The real difficulty comes when there are no wrench cuts. You will have to remove the housing cover to secure the spindle inside the drill. Difficult, but doable.

Removing a cartridge is one thing. Finding a new one is a completely different matter. In addition to the methods for clamping the drill, which are described above, different chucks also have different threads! The surest way not to confuse anything is to take an old cartridge with you and demonstrate it to the seller, or choose the right one based on the layout. When you have completed this task, all that remains for you is to screw the chuck onto the spindle and screw in the bolt, which in our case is screwed counterclockwise.

It has long been no secret that it is most convenient and quick to unscrew and tighten screws with a screwdriver.

Any tool has the ability to wear out and fail. This is especially true for moving and frequently used parts. In a screwdriver, this component is considered to be the chuck. An element that has completely failed should be replaced. But first you need to understand how the cartridge is removed. To do this, you need to know a little about the technical characteristics of the device. To carry out repair work you will need a hammer, a screwdriver, a vice and some keys.

Chucks are most often attached to the shaft in the following ways:

• Via Morse taper
• Threaded way
• Using a fixing screw

The Morse cone is one of the easiest and most practical methods that began to be used in the 19th century. The shaft plane is processed in the form of a cone with assigned parameters. A similar cone is located in the middle of the cartridge. When they are combined, a quick and strong connection of the component parts occurs.

The next method is equipped with a thread that is cut on the edge of the working shaft of the power tool.

The fixing screw is used to additionally connect the screw-in chuck to the shaft. As a rule, the screw has a head for a Phillips screwdriver, as well as a left-hand thread. It is necessary to unscrew the jaws of the chuck as much as possible to see it.

Care and storage

• regularly disassemble and clean the internal elements of the screwdriver from carbon deposits, dust and dirt;
• If unstable operation occurs, carry out diagnostics. Check the wear of the brushes so that you do not have to change the motor armature;
• Do not leave the instrument in areas with high humidity or under the sun. The same goes for the battery;
• Do not keep the battery near keys, coins or other short metal objects. In case of accidental contact with the poles, the battery will short circuit. As a result, a fire may occur;
• At the end of the working day, take a clean rag and wipe the instrument. The cloth can be slightly moistened with water without using detergents;
• The screwdriver should be stored in a dry environment with positive temperatures. Use a case or other packaging to prevent the instrument from becoming covered in dust.

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Operate a screwdriver, observing safety precautions and the rules described in the instructions. Choose the right equipment. And then the tool will serve you for a long time.

The role of the chuck in reliable fastening of the drill

Clamping drill chucks for household drills are available in three modifications:

The body of the key jaw chuck is made in the form of a hollow hardened cylindrical sleeve (collet), on the outer surface of which a rotating adjusting collar is installed. On one side the cylinder is mounted on the drive shaft of the drill, and on the other side there are cams (petals) for attaching cutting tools (drills, taps, reamers, etc.). When the adjusting ring rotates, the steel cams move along guides using special threads. If they come close to each other, the drill is clamped. If they diverge from each other, the tool is released. The approaching and moving away of the cams depends on the direction of rotation of the holder. Reliable fixation of the drill is ensured by tightening the chuck holder with great force. To do this, use a special key or a quick-clamping - on quick-release chucks - clutch.

The key helps to firmly clamp the drill and easily unscrew the adjusting collar. Drills of various diameters with a cylindrical shank are fixed in jaw chucks. Most often, household electric drill chucks are designed for drills with a diameter of 0.8 to 10 mm or 1.5 to 13 mm.

Why and when do you need to change?

The clamping device must ensure drilling of holes with acceptable accuracy. But over time, the seats on the shaft and cams wear out, and the cartridge begins to beat. That is, the working area of ​​the drill begins to move from side to side when rotating, and the hole is drilled with deviations both in location and in diameter. Wear on the cams does not allow the drills to be securely fastened, and they stop under load. There is only one way out - replace the worn cartridge with a new one.

Causes and types of malfunction

Incorrect operation of the fastening mechanism, when the screwdriver does not clamp the bit well, may be caused by wear of one or more of its elements. On the outside of the cams there are teeth that engage the rotary gear and, when twisted, move up along a conical guide, clamping the drill shank. When grinding teeth on the cams or gear, the clamping force becomes insufficient to hold the bit securely.

There is an option when the cams, although they do not converge completely, can provide the required amount of pressure up to a certain diameter. Then a temporary solution is possible. Wire is wound onto the shank of the bit (the best material is copper), increasing the diameter and thus tightly tightening the improvised structure. These are extreme measures that allow you to realize the capabilities of the tool only in case of extreme necessity.

How to replace the chuck in a drill with your own hands?

To attach the chuck to the drive shaft of the drill, a threaded connection or Morse taper is used. A visual inspection of an electric drill will not always help indicate how to secure the drill chuck. This can be indicated by the marking on the cartridge: it is stamped on its surface.

Replacing the conical type of part

The standard size of the Morse cone (according to GOST 9953–82) consists of 9 values: from B7 to B45. The larger the number after the letter B, the larger the diameter of the cone.

Thus, having found the marking “B” on the surface of the cartridge, we can conclude that this is a device with a conical mounting base. With this method of attachment, the cartridge can be easily removed. It is enough to use a drift and a plumber's hammer.

Video: how to remove a chuck with a cone from an electric drill?

Replacing the reversible threaded chuck

To secure the drill clamp to an electric household drill using a threaded joint, two types of threads are used:

• inch (for foreign models);
• metric (from Russian manufacturers).

The following marking is applied to the surface of the threaded clamping chuck body: 1.5–13 1/2 – 20UNF or 1.5–13 M12x1.25.

The reversible threaded cartridge for fixation has a screw with a left-hand thread. You need to know this nuance when removing a broken cartridge. In order to get to the screw head, it is necessary to recess the cams into the collet completely. As soon as the head of the screw is visible, use a hardened Phillips screwdriver to unscrew it to the right clockwise. Then hold the hex key in your fists and hit it sharply in a counterclockwise direction. After the cartridge is torn from its place, it can be easily unscrewed.

Video: how to remove a chuck from a reverse drill or screwdriver?

On other models there are other options for mounting the cartridge on the thread. In some cases, the cartridge is twisted entirely from the threaded end of the shaft. In other cases, the screw can be fixed with a special thin key using a narrow groove. The main difficulty is to move the cartridge from its place when unscrewing. Sometimes this is very difficult to do. In any case, to remove the cartridge you need: a mechanic's tool, the necessary skill and patience.

How to disassemble a cartridge

Once the cylinder is removed from the screwdriver, you can begin disassembly. The first step is to remove the plug in the base. For a plug made of plastic, careful prying with a knife is enough, but the metal part must be knocked out by hitting the base of the cartridge and turning it by hand.

You need to hit here

This requires a large bolt. It is placed in the sleeve and lightly clamped with fists to fix it in the center. At the same time, he should not get stuck, but move freely back and forth. The head of the bolt should protrude 2-3 cm from the cylinder. Then a gentle but pointed blow is applied to the bolt with a hammer, and then the metal plug is removed.

Next, the actual disassembly of the screwdriver chuck begins. The design of any cylinder consists of unchanged main parts:

• sleeves;
• grounds;
• washers;
• bearing;
• nuts

Disassembling a drill chuck with a quick-release nut

To clean the jaws and lubricate the moving parts and threads of the cartridge, it must be disassembled. Disassembly is necessary to repair and replace failed parts. Here is a short list and sequence of operations for disassembling the jaw chuck:

1. The removed cartridge with the conical part up, lined with wooden spacers, is clamped by the coupling in a vice.
2. Use a gas wrench to carefully unscrew the notched nut.
3. The bearing is pulled out. The puck comes out.
4. The cartridge is removed from the vice.
5. The adjusting sleeve is twisted from the base by hand. If it does not give in (jammed), then the cartridge turns over and is again compressed by the clutch in a vice. A little machine oil is poured onto the threaded part of the coupling and base. Then, using a gas wrench, the base is skillfully unscrewed from the coupling.
6. If there is a retaining ring or nut at the bottom, they are removed.
7. The cams are pulled out of the guide rings and removed from the base cone.
8. All parts of the drill chuck are carefully inspected. If worn, deformed or broken parts are identified, they are rejected and replaced.
9. The jaw chuck is assembled in the reverse order. At the same time, all moving parts are lubricated with a special grease. It is best to use the lubricant recommended by the manufacturer.

The procedure for disassembling cartridges of other models may be different. It depends on the type of chuck, its design and the manufacturer of the drill. To disassemble the drill chuck yourself, you need to fulfill three conditions:

• have the necessary set of tools available;
• have plumbing skills;
• to be a person with a stable, balanced psyche.

Repair methods

Experts recommend, regardless of the reason why the screwdriver jams, what to do first: introduce universal lubricant such as WD-40 into the internal cavity of the chuck, including the surface of the jaws. After 10-15 minutes, use a rubber hammer (or a regular one, through a gasket) to tap the cartridge and jaws with moderate force.

If the bit is jammed in the chuck of a Bosch, Texas, Praktika, etc. screwdriver, then (after lubrication) the use of two adjustable wrenches effectively solves the problem. One clamps the base of the cartridge, the other carefully rotates its upper part. To avoid damage to the surface and the unit itself, soft but dense pads such as leather should be used.

If your efforts lead to nothing, workshop specialists will be able to restore the functionality of the tool with minimal financial costs and extremely quickly.

Possible problems with the chuck when operating a drill: causes, descriptions and ways to solve them

To avoid problems with a drill, you need to be able to operate it correctly. A drill is a universal tool; it can be used to drill wood and metal, plastic and tile, stone and glass, concrete and brick. In everyday life, a rotary impact drill of medium power is usually used. It is equipped with a chuck of the SDS system, which was invented by BOSH. The SDS chuck is not particularly accurate, but is ideal for drilling concrete, stone, and brick. That is, those building materials where drilling is necessary with impact.

For more precise drilling of metal and wood parts, it has a special adapter for attaching a jaw key chuck or a keyless chuck. A drill cannot be used for milling work. The drill chuck is not designed for side loads and will quickly fail. Of great importance is:

• correct choice of drill;
• correct sharpening of the cutting part of the drill;
• mandatory marking of the center of the holes using a core.

You need to skillfully select the desired speed, feed, operating mode depending on the workpiece material. All these factors directly affect the reliable operation of the drill chuck.

The part falls off

Does the cartridge fly off? This problem occurs quite often even on new drills with a cone-shaped jaw chuck when drilling a deep hole. You need to lift the drill to free it from the chips, and at this moment the chuck flies off the cone. The situation can be corrected by increasing the tension in the cone joint. To do this, the cartridge is heated in oil or oven to a temperature of 110 degrees and placed on a cold drill mandrel.

Clamping jaws jammed

Drill work always takes place in dirty conditions. This is dust, dirt, shavings, sawdust and other small debris. If this debris gets inside the chuck, it can cause the threaded connections, particularly the jaws, to jam. There is only one way out here. Requires disassembly of the cartridge, cleaning and rinsing of moving parts. Before assembly, all moving parts are lubricated with lithol. Especially a lot of waste is poured into the chuck when drilling ceiling surfaces. Here you can think about protecting the cartridge with half a small rubber ball.

Chuck runout can be caused by various reasons. For example, the Morse seat cone is worn out. This can be checked using paint. An even layer is applied to the cone and the cartridge is inserted. Then the mark he left on the cone is removed and studied. Another reason could be uneven wear on the cams. In this case, they need to be changed. But more often they replace a broken cartridge with a new clamping device.

In the right hands, a household drill can work wonders. With its help, holes are drilled in durable and soft materials. The chuck is an important component of a drilling machine. It is this that ensures the reliability of drill fastening and drilling accuracy. Therefore, it is very important for a home craftsman to be able to independently carry out minor repairs and replacement of this part of the device.

Source: 100uslug.com

The nuances of removing, disassembling and replacing heads on screwdrivers from different manufacturers

The design of the screwdriver chuck is such that the procedure for its removal, disassembly and replacement is generally the same and standard for all models. The differences are only in the subtleties for each company.

1. Makita

Household tools from this manufacturer are often equipped with a plastic head. It should be removed carefully, because the risk of damage is higher than that of a metal sleeve. Quick-clamping devices on Makita screwdrivers are usually single-socket.

1. Bosch

The cylinders on Bosch screwdrivers are designed similarly to Makita and are removed and disassembled in the same way. The only difference is that Bosch has a fixing screw in the cylinder. It must be unscrewed clockwise.

1. Bison

To replace the cartridge, you need to unscrew it clockwise from the shaft.

Removing the head on screwdrivers of the Interskol, Hitachi, DeWalt, Metabo, and Vikhr models is not very diverse. The procedure is:

1. Unscrew the fixing screw using a Phillips screwdriver. It is recommended to lightly lubricate the pre-unscrewed element with WD-40. This will not only loosen the strong clamp, but will also dissolve any rust if there is any.
2. Clamp an L-shaped hex key of 10 mm or more with the short side into the chuck.
3. On the long side of the hexagon, it is worth applying one pointed blow with a hammer in a clockwise direction. It is necessary to hit the hexagon, and not the cylinder itself: this can break the clamping device and deform the screwdriver shaft.
4. After the impact, you can unscrew the cartridge by hand.

You only need to hit the hexagon