Do-it-yourself pneumatic metal grinder - moy-instrument.ru

Types of gravers

In addition to traditional hand tools, mechanized cutters have recently become increasingly widespread.
The shape of their blade is exactly the same as that of a manual blade, but the pressure on the cutter is carried out due to a mechanical drive. Depending on the type of drive, the following types of gravers are distinguished: You can buy an electromechanical graver, or you can make it yourself. This will require serious skills in electrical engineering and design.

The design and manufacturing technology of a pneumatic hammer for metal is much simpler. To assemble it, it is enough to grind (or select a suitable one) a cylinder and a piston, which, under the influence of compressed air supplied through the pipe, will hit the shank of the graver.

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Making a gravel with your own hands

We select the most suitable fragments and cut them into one size with a Dremel

65-70mm (depending on the hand, I have 68mm). We clamp the tube into a drill and cut it with the edge of a file to a size of 15mm.

Cover the bottom of the tubes with transparent tape,

Fill half the height of the tube with epoxy mixed with wood dust. We insert the “stubs” of the needle file all the way.

As soon as the glue sets, trying not to block the geometry of the file, carefully remove the notch with a Dremel.

Further fine-tuning is carried out by hand on a block, again trying to preserve the overall geometry as much as possible.

Almost finished tool

Making a gravel for engraving on metal

Making a serger of the simplest design is possible for a home craftsman with metalworking skills. To do this, take as a basis:

file or needle file;
spring leaf;
part of the bearing race.

The main thing is that the steel is high-strength and elastic. Strength is necessary for the graver to successfully cut the metal of the workpiece, not become dull for a long time and maintain the specified sharpening shape. Elasticity will allow the tool not to break under load.

A higher-quality cutter can be obtained by forging, but for this you must have good blacksmithing skills and have a forge. A file made from a needle file will be noticeably inferior to a forged one in both strength and flexibility.

Before you start sawing and forging metal, you should build a drawing of the tool. You will need not only a large-scale image of the cutter itself, but also a drawing of the handle.

Types of gravers

In addition to traditional hand tools, mechanized cutters have recently become increasingly widespread. The shape of their blade is exactly the same as that of a manual blade, but the pressure on the cutter is carried out due to a mechanical drive. Depending on the type of drive, the following types of gravers are distinguished:

Wood carving set, Petrograd, n11, 4 items

You can buy an electromechanical serger, or you can make it yourself. This will require serious skills in electrical engineering and design.

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How to make an engraver with your own hands - Metals, equipment, instructions

Applying a pattern to various objects by removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone.

New technologies make it possible to fully automate the engraving process when applying a design to a metal surface, but for a home craftsman, the most suitable option is to master the manual method of applying a design.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.

Transferring a complex image to metal

The original method of transferring an image to a metal base is carried out in the following sequence:

Varnish is applied to the surface of the metal being processed.
Using a soft graphite pencil, an image is drawn on a polyester film that will be engraved on the workpiece.
The drawing is covered with tape, pressed over the entire area to the film and carefully removed from it. In this case, the image drawn earlier will remain on the sticky surface of the tape.
When the varnish dries, the tape is attached to the metal surface, smoothed with a roller or other soft object, and then removed.

After correctly performing the described steps, a pattern will remain on the product, which can be used for engraving.

Other engraving methods

In addition to the manual engraving method at home, the following methods can be used to change the relief of a metal surface:

Chemical engraving is a method that can be easily done at home, even with regular table salt and a phone charger.
Using a drill is a great method for home use. The principle of metal removal by this method is similar to manual engraving, but instead of a sercie, a drill or similar device with a rotating thin drill is used.
Laser engraving is the most advanced way of applying a design to a metal surface, but equipment for this type of work will be too expensive. The use of this engraving method is justified only when the hobby of drawing designs on metal becomes a profession and brings in a constant income.

Conclusion

How to make engraving on metal and which method to master to perform this type of work, everyone must decide for themselves. To begin with, it is recommended to purchase a professional tool for manual work. After working with hand tools for some time, you can move on to mastering the equipment, which will significantly speed up the engraving process.

It is recommended to purchase metal engraving tools only in specialized stores. When making your own gravers, you should pay attention to the cutting surface of the tool, which must be perfectly sharpened.

A gravel that is not sharp enough and has knocked down corners will not allow you to remove the metal correctly. When working with the tool, you must also be careful, otherwise you can seriously injure yourself.

If such a nuisance has already occurred, then the wound should be disinfected and bandaged.

By taking precautions and using high-quality tools, you can create real handmade masterpieces at home, which can be used not only for personal purposes, but can be sold at special online auctions for the sale of handmade items.

DIY pneumatic engraver

Pulsating pressure designs. It should be noted that there are not many of them at all. Distinctive advantages: Allows the tool to work in a fairly wide range of piston vibration frequencies. Distinctive disadvantages: Lower efficiency and, as a result, high air consumption. Complex design, therefore, large weight and dimensions. The power range is narrower, which can be expanded to some extent using replaceable pistons and springs.

InSet is a fairly recent design that I didn't like. The handles are large, not ergonomic, and dull to operate. I liked the handle, made specifically for applying the mat, but it doesn’t make sense to buy a unit for it.

The GRS is the world's best-selling design. In addition to good quality pneumatic sharpeners, it produces a whole range of sharpening devices and others for engraving and jewelry work. A small power range can be compensated for by a set of three or four knobs. The tool has many settings and has proven itself well in the work of engravers and jewelers. The disadvantages are common to this group of tools. Well, the price is quite high.

The Chinese similarities—the ones I saw—were made so obscenely that I didn’t even want to include them.

Shtikhel, designs by Sergei Valtman. This, in my opinion, is the simplest and most workable option for do-it-yourselfers. If you want to do it yourself, finding information on the Internet is not a problem. The disadvantage is that with this scheme, pressure fluctuations fade away in a long and elastic hose, and in small things.

Motorcycle tackle: types, features, DIY creation

Constant pressure designs There are many manufacturers, I will only focus on a few that pain me

General disadvantages: poorly regulated in frequency General advantages: Compact Simplicity, durability and reliability Higher efficiency and lower air consumption.

Steve Lindsay - USA, produces pshevmoshtiheli for about 20 years. Beautiful instruments, well made. Despite the fact that the design contains some errors that have not yet been eliminated, the design, due to its simplicity of execution, has become a model for many imitations and almost all constant pressure instruments are its analogues. Some followers, having improved the design, achieved better characteristics than the progenitor.

I haven’t seen Turkish manufacturers, I only know what’s on the Internet.

PneumoArt - Ukraine. High quality pneumatic clamps. Lindsay design, slightly modified.

Vladimir Burdyga - Ukraine. High quality pneumatic clamps. Lindsay design, slightly modified. I've heard good reviews.

There are a large number of homemade products on the Internet, of varying quality and price. I am sure of one thing - only a good tool can be an assistant in your work; with a bad one, you will feel nothing but disappointment, even if you buy it very cheaply. By what indicators can you distinguish between a tool that is competent in design and well executed?1. A bad tool will not start with low pressure. The best samples work stably even at three hundredths of an atmosphere, when not a single pressure gauge reacts to this pressure. There are stillers powered by a compressor with a power of 4.5 W. Naturally, their air consumption is small. If the shtikhel starts with 0.1 atmosphere, then this is no longer very good. 2. A good tool has a wide range of power, and at a pressure of 3 atmospheres it hits several tens of times stronger than at the lowest pressure.3. Correct transfer of energy from the piston to the tool, mainly due to the shock wave, which is characterized by a small amplitude of movement of the cutter, and a sound similar to the operation of a two-stroke internal combustion engine.4. The tool should be smoothly and conveniently controlled with a pedal and have an idle speed setting, which is necessary for certain types of work. Tools with handle controls are not suitable for professional work - these are show-offs from tool manufacturers.

How to make a metal stencil with your own hands?

The history of metal engraving goes back thousands of years. If you want to decorate your things in such an amazing way, then this article is just for you. You will learn useful information about how to properly do metal carving with your own hands.

Engraving is a method of applying a pattern to the surface of solid materials using cutting engraving tools. This is the most sophisticated type of all carvings, because it conveys the subtlety and sophistication of all lines.

Artistic metal engraving arose a long time ago and is capable of giving an object special value, individuality and uniqueness, a beautiful and original appearance that attracts the attention of others. An inscription that is personally dedicated to you always has and has had special value.

It also means wealth, because not every person will afford to buy beautiful and exquisite carvings on expensive metals or leather goods. Engraving is the transfer of a design onto a metal object.

Well, if you are reading this text, then most likely you are interested in learning how to do metal carving with your own hands, because, as the masters say, it is not so difficult.

The main thing is to have patience, talent and gain more experience.

There are two types of metal carving: manual and mechanical, it can only affect the surface of the material (linear), or it can go deep, then sophisticated 3D works are created (three-dimensional).

Breaking down the basics

The main element through which metal carving is made is the gravel. But there are a huge number of varieties of this tool that make it easier to work with different types of carving. For example, with a messer-sticker you can make very, very thin lines, and with a rep-sticker you can make parallel patterns.

Craftsmen advise purchasing a set of tools in specialized stores, because this will make your work easier.

A couple more tips from experienced professionals on how to do the work at home: the work should be done on your own, and the tool should be held like a regular ballpoint pen.

Read this: Bird wood carving: photos of interesting ideas for creativity

There is a simple method that most craftsmen started with; it tells you how to make a good product.

For carving, we use a metal object on which we want to make (for a gift, to practice) a text or a drawing. Next, you take a disposable glass into which you pour water and dissolve a lot of table salt in it. You also need electrical tape, which should be wrapped around the entire metal part, leaving only the tip.

Using a sharp knife, cut out the text/drawing on the electrical tape. Then, taking a DC generator, attach the positive end of the wire to our object, and the negative end to a nail or metal plate.

We immerse all metal parts in a saline solution and turn on the generator to the electrical network. After a short period of time you will notice the engraving.

This is one of the easiest ways to carve metal.

Of course, you shouldn’t cut out everything at once, because on the Internet and in various literature there are many patterns that inspire with their beauty. You can find thousands of different designs, like the one by Canadian artist Cal Lane.

At first, this woman was simply fascinated by ornaments, looked for them in thematic magazines or the Internet, and then she learned to cut out such unusual design patterns herself. All designs and openwork lace came into carving from various types of art (they covered tablecloths or decorated houses).

Most often these were stretching and intertwining plants, huge leaves, and less often flowers.

Read this: Wood carving: a selection of creative ideas

For any thread, the following main elements are distinguished: thread profile, profile angle, profile height, thread pitch, outer diameter, middle and inner diameters of the thread. Very often the smallest elements are depicted; large ones do not look very aesthetically pleasing.

Also in the patterns you see birds, animals, and some make copies of people, which are decorated very beautifully. You are provided with a selection of various photos about patterns and elements for them. In the 4th picture you will see the same Cal Lane, and then her work.

Her creations are most often made from unnecessary things that people wanted to throw away.

There are a lot of different types of metal engraving on the Internet, which you can choose to suit your taste and color. This article will talk about only some of the more famous ones.

Diamond engraving is used when working with various expensive metals (gold, silver). A huge advantage of this carving is that the metal is not removed, but only bends under the influence of the engraver’s force.

Photo engraving. A fairly common occurrence and, by the way, a great gift. The photograph is divided into small squares, which are subsequently transferred to the metal. The depth of the product itself will depend on the strength.

Milling is a fairly common form of engraving due to frequent use. It uses milling cutters or conical engravers, which rotate very, very quickly. Interestingly, jewelry making is done using a combination of the first and third methods. These products are very different in complexity and sophistication of details, everything depends on the hand of the master and his experience.

Unfortunately, elements made using solvents wear out very quickly, but there are more effective technologies that will extend the life of your product (laser engraving or mechanical).

Laser engraving is a very good method and can be used to cut very fine and fine lines.

But the only drawback is that this is a very expensive activity; for a small laser you need to pay more than 15,000 rubles.

Mechanical engraving is much cheaper, but you must have a lot of experience, because this is very painstaking work and not everyone knows how to cut out various details so clearly. This work will require a “sharp eye” and a trained hand.

on the topic of the article

Well, at the end of this article we would like to recommend you video lessons, thanks to which you can learn a lot of useful information.

How to make engraving on metal at home

Applying a pattern to various objects by removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone.

New technologies make it possible to fully automate the engraving process when applying a design to a metal surface, but for a home craftsman, the most suitable option is to master the manual method of applying a design.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.

What is needed for engraving

For manual engraving at home, you will need the following tools and materials:

Stichel.
Metal blank.
A vice or similar device for holding a workpiece stationary.

General technology

The technique can be manual or mechanical (various equipment is used).

It is also divided into line and armor:

The line engraving technique is performed by applying contour lines and strokes to an object. Metal carvings are not deep, affecting only the surface of the object;
Defensive, otherwise called three-dimensional, mechanical deep technique allows you to achieve a three-dimensional pattern. See photo.

Incisive engraving is performed with a special tool – a graver.

If you ask yourself how to make it yourself and where to buy these tools, then the answer is simple: this tool is sold in the same stores where you can find various art supplies.

The finest lines are made with a Messer-Stichel. If you need to make parallel lines, they are made with a rap pen.

To perform high-quality work, this tool must be sharpened; for this, a fine-grained whetstone is used, which is pre-moistened with water or oil.

The graver is brought “to readiness” with a leather product (you can take an old belt) coated with chromium oxide.

Manual processing of small items at home requires the presence of a special pillow; you can easily make it yourself: take two pieces of fabric of the same size (round or square), sew them together along the edge, stepping back from it a little, but you need to leave a small gap in order to so you can pour sand inside.

The prepared form is turned inside out, dried sand is poured in, and the remaining hole is sewn up.

The cushion engraving tool is ready.

How to properly hold the instrument in your hand?

This should be done as if you were holding a regular ballpoint pen: the index finger should be on top of the blade (that’s what the metal part of the cutter is called), and the thumb should hold it on the side.

Work must be done on your own.

In the case when you need to change the direction of the pattern, unfold the pillow with the object on which the element is being applied, but do not change the direction of movement of the hand.

What else is useful to know about incisors?

To do your own engraving at home, it is advisable to first practice so that the carving turns out beautiful in the end.

It is better to purchase a set of tools: it is better to apply rounded lines with a square section of cutters, and it is better to make straight lines with a round section.

During work, burrs very often appear, which cannot be avoided, but they can be removed with the help of a scraper.

You can make the scraper yourself. To do this, you will need a file, from the edges of which you need to grind off the notch.

Before application, the surface must be cleaned with fine sandpaper and polished. A special polishing paste is used for polishing.

The paste can be easily replaced with chromium oxide (oil paint). The surface of the object must be thoroughly and vigorously rubbed. The paste is ground with a thick piece of leather.

: Stangen gauge - purpose, verification, GOST

Engraving pen

Hand engraving at home requires: - Stichel - Metal blank

— Anything solid holding a metal workpiece, possibly a vice

For beginners, we recommend using a softer metal, such as copper or aluminum, as a workpiece.

A shtikhel is a rod, usually 120 -130 millimeters in size. The tip of the gravel is cut at a certain angle and sharpened. The second tip is inserted into the handle, usually wooden.

Engraving pens come in various shapes and differ in the width of the working surface. If you don’t have this tool, you can easily make it yourself if you have the right materials.

To make a graver you need tool steel.

The metal used in ball bearings and springs is excellent here. To make a cutting surface, you need to use a cutter, a needle file, a file, cutting it into thin strips.

The best material to make an engraving pen is P18 steel. You can also make a graver from circular saw blades.

Then we sharpen the workpiece at an angle, which will allow us to make a notch of the required width.

If we talk about the handle of a wooden pen, then it must be made of hardwood, with a width convenient for the master to hold in his hand. The mushroom shape is, in our opinion, the best option.

Glass engraving

Photo 4. For home engraving you will need regular salt, nail polish, nail polish cleaner and a glass of water.

Do-it-yourself engraving on the glass surface is done chemically and mechanically. The mechanical method involves the use of a nozzle that is driven by an electric motor. Procedure:

Using a dark marker, the drawing is transferred to the glass.
A damp sponge is applied to the image on the glass. This must be done carefully so as not to smudge the drawing.
When working, you must use safety glasses.
After completing the drawing, it is washed and examined for gaps. If necessary, missed places are processed again.

Color engraving

To make the drawing look more clear and beautiful, use a glass pencil or ink.

In order for the effect of using these tools to remain as long as possible, the surface is coated with colorless varnish.

You can make the drawing clearer using a needle and oil paints. This set allows you to scratch auxiliary lines of the pattern, which are subsequently covered with paint.

Artistic color engraving allows you to make the product colorful. To do this, those elements that do not need to be painted are coated with transparent varnish.

How to blacken a metal object? Special equipment is not used for this, but the following substances are required: sulfur and potash (potassium carbonate) in a ratio of 1:2.

This composition must be put on fire; to do this, it is poured into a tin can. The mixture must be constantly stirred, and the fire should not be high.

The mixture is removed from the heat when it turns black. Before this, it will need to be ground in a mortar; after the fire, it is also placed in a mortar and ground again (cooled).

Blackening occurs as follows:

Water is added to the resulting mixture (1:9);
A brass object is placed in the solution;
It is heated until the product acquires the desired shade.

You can make the background dark before applying the drawing. In this case, varnish is not needed.

You can make an object brown with your own hands by keeping it in a solution of zinc chloride and copper sulfate with the addition of water (100g, 100g, 200g, respectively).

Hand painting in steel gray color is obtained from 1 liter of water, two grams of ordinary salt and two grams of a mixture of sulfur and potash.

The orange-red color is obtained from a solution of potassium sulphide: 1 gram of the substance per 250 grams of water.

Upon completion of work, the varnish is erased.

The blackening of an object and the blackness we know are two different things. The technique used to create niello is mechanical; it cannot be done with your own hands.

Metal engraving

Metal engraving allows you to create beautiful products - paintings, panels, jewelry, etc. applying an image to a sheet of metal mechanically can be done using different tools - using a cutter, laser, gravel, etc. Let's take a closer look at manual engraving on a metal surface.

In this example, metal engraving work is performed in the reverse manner - when the design is depicted with light lines and strokes on a dark background. Before you begin, you need to prepare everything you need:

Brass sheet 0.6-1 mm thick
Engraver with bur for metal
Degreasing agent
Sodium sulfate crystals
Tracing paper
Clear varnish

Let's start experiments

Decorative patterns using the engraving method are applied to plates, knives, pistols, sabers, medals, cups, and apartment numbers.

All patterns and inscriptions are preserved almost forever and do not require expensive and rare consumables or special equipment for execution. The design can be applied to steel, aluminum, brass, copper, and metal alloys.

The method does not pollute the environment. It is impossible to wash off or erase the drawing using conventional methods and means.

It is recommended to start by applying simple inscriptions on cutlery. Relatives and friends may appreciate such a gift. You need to prepare for work (photo No. 4).

Photo 2. Engraved wedding rings, the wedding date and the initials of the bride and groom are usually written on them.

Nail polish that my wife doesn't really need.
Toothpick with sharp tips.
You may need an ordinary match.
Salt.
Charger for car battery. It can be successfully replaced by charging from a mobile phone.
Glass or porcelain dishes in the form of a glass, mug or jar.
Nail polish remover.

The work is done in this order:

Take a spoon and cover it with nail polish. The entire surface must be varnished very carefully, otherwise there will be defects in the work.
Using a match or toothpick, a pattern, name, or other image is scratched through the layer of varnish.
Pour 2 tablespoons of salt into a glass glass or jar. Some people add a spoonful of salt and a spoonful of soda.
Water is poured into the vessel, the salt is thoroughly stirred until completely dissolved.
We connect a car or other charger with the positive terminal to the product being processed, and the negative terminal to any metal object that will be placed in a vessel with water. This item could be another spoon, a piece of thick wire, or a metal plate.
The rectifier is connected to the network. Almost immediately, an etching reaction will begin in the glass with darkening of the liquid. It lasts 1-5 minutes. It depends on the magnitude of the current. The product is checked periodically. After reaching the desired etching depth, it is removed from the container.
The varnish is washed off with nail polish remover. The result should look something like this (photo No. 3).

Making your own gravel

To make a gravel, it is necessary to use tool steel. The metal used in springs and ball bearings is excellent for this purpose. To make a cutting surface, you can use old files and needle files, as well as various cutters that need to be cut into thin strips.

The ideal material for making an engraving pen is P18 steel. From old circles for circular saws you can make a large number of blanks for the production of gravers at home. Next, the working part of the workpiece is sharpened at an angle that will make it possible to make a notch of a certain width on the metal surface.

The handle of the gravel is made of hardwood, and should be of such a width that the master can comfortably hold the tool in his hand. The recommended length of this part of the gravel is usually 50 mm.

A mushroom-shaped handle is the most suitable for making this tool, but you can experiment and make several different options, and in the process choose the most suitable option.

Preparation of the workpiece

First of all, you should select a blank on which the drawing will be displayed. The selected product must be free of rust and chips. To prepare the surface you will need:

Sandpaper P400.
GOI paste No. 1 or No. 2

First, the workpiece is polished using sandpaper. Then final polishing is carried out using GOI paste.

To avoid damage to the surface, when carrying out polishing work with GOI paste, it is recommended to use this product only No. 1 or No. 2.

You should also do the following before finishing polishing with this product:

Prepare a flannel cloth and moisten it with white spirit
Pour GOI paste onto a dampened cloth.
Wipe the unwanted area of metal with a cloth to remove large pieces that could scratch the surface.

After such preparation, the workpiece is polished using uniform circular movements. After completing the polishing activities, the metal object must be rinsed in kerosene and dried at room temperature.

The process of engraving on metal

If you are engraving a metal surface for the first time, then before you start applying the main design, it is recommended to practice on an unnecessary piece of metal.

The ideal option for such training is to use a copper plate. A piece of copper should be securely fixed to a wooden board using self-tapping screws with wide heads. When the workpiece is secured, the board is laid on the table, additional lighting is turned on if necessary, the cutting tool is clamped in the right hand, and an even notch is made on the metal surface.

To prevent the hand from slipping when making a straight line, on the surface of the metal plate the thumbs of the left and right hands should be connected and touch the plate where the drawing is made.

The index finger of the right hand, at this time, rests on the tool’s cutter and completely controls the process of drawing lines. It is recommended to first make several straight parallel stripes on the workpiece.

When the smooth areas look good, you can move on to making semicircular lines.

When your hand is already a little full, you can begin to engrave the design on the workpiece. To carry out this work, the metal object must also be securely fixed. For this purpose, a device similar to the self-tapping locking mechanism described above should be made.

To engrave simple figures, initials and other simple images, you can begin immediately after securing the metal object. If you need to make a complex drawing, it is recommended to first transfer the image to the workpiece.

Transferring a complex image to metal

The original method of transferring an image to a metal base is carried out in the following sequence:

Varnish is applied to the surface of the metal being processed.
Using a soft graphite pencil, an image is drawn on a polyester film that will be engraved on the workpiece.
The drawing is covered with tape, pressed over the entire area to the film and carefully removed from it. In this case, the image drawn earlier will remain on the sticky surface of the tape.
When the varnish dries, the tape is attached to the metal surface, smoothed with a roller or other soft object, and then removed.

After correctly performing the described steps, a pattern will remain on the product, which can be used for engraving.

Other engraving methods

In addition to the manual engraving method at home, the following methods can be used to change the relief of a metal surface:

Chemical engraving is a method that can be easily done at home, even with regular table salt and a phone charger.
Using a drill is a great method for home use. The principle of metal removal by this method is similar to manual engraving, but instead of a sercie, a drill or similar device with a rotating thin drill is used.
Laser engraving is the most advanced way of applying a design to a metal surface, but equipment for this type of work will be too expensive. The use of this engraving method is justified only when the hobby of drawing designs on metal becomes a profession and brings in a constant income.

Conclusion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPqL93UELzwu0026t=3172s

If such a nuisance has already occurred, then the wound should be disinfected and bandaged.

Pneumostichel system of Sergei Valtman

Greetings to everyone! I’ve been looking at pneumatic clamps for a long time, but for non-professional use the prices for them (at least for me) are very high. I read the topic by Sergei Waltman (https://waltman.iz-zolota.ru), everything is accessible and clearly written, the drawings are presented by Rumen Radkov (https://www.chipmaker.ru/topic/132834/page__st__20), for which Many thanks to them. The whole job took me a week, without interruption from production, and at Sunday lunchtime I was already trying out the gravel at work. I had to glue round pieces of thin leather onto the piston, otherwise my wife threatened to throw me out onto the stairs because of the cracking sound. I created this topic not to brag, but for those who, like me, want and want to. Working drawings, budget depends on the compressor.

I did the same while plugging the compressor. Explain about your compressor, motor, control.

How to make a quality tool box with your own hands

Interesting thing. I’m not able to collect this, but I really want to. Sincerely.

Is it a car compressor?

There are many advantages in this design, the striker does not hang like a hammer in constant air from condensation and dirt, it is not necessary to clean it, it does not require precise calculations. The problem with such a striker is that it is a jackhammer, so it needs a lot to work in different modes any additions, such as adjusting the rotation of the engine, springs of various elasticity and strikers of different weights, but this is nothing for now. And one more important point, it would be nice to make the main bushing with an intermediate thick wall between the tool holder and the striker, then the impact will softer and the cut is not stepped.

What I personally didn’t understand was what the firing pin itself was made of. caprolon or what? So it will break on the end of the tool holder and you will have to sharpen a new one.

All IMHO, of course.))))

It’s still difficult for me to judge the efficiency and naturally I still have to figure out the springs and the weight of the pistons, I just tried it for now to see if it works. In the photo there is a fluoroplastic piston weighing 2 grams, I tried it - not enough, did it as in the drawing, it turned out to be 4.74 grams. I started cutting and stopped there for now. There is nothing to compare with.

I would like to show you how it cuts, it would be interesting.

I'll try on the weekend, it's interesting for me. Yes, it was correctly noted about the intermediate sleeve, it is there, I forgot to take it out of the body, so I took a photo.

The Foredom engine with a pedal (now it will work on two fronts) didn’t accelerate much, let the piston get used to it, and there doesn’t seem to be any point in pedaling too much. The spring is a little short and sometimes rings, but I haven’t noticed any freezes.

I have to try everything, but during the day at work, and in the evening if I start knocking, they will knock on me. Now until the weekend, and then in fits and starts.

GUYS, YOU ARE ALL LITERATURE, BUT LEARN TO WORK AT LEAST A LITTLE STICHEL.

If I didn’t have Foredom, I would agree with Alexander, and if I have it, why not use it. On Avito you can buy a whole Berkut cheaper than I bought a piston one.

One does not interfere with the other. Or do you offer the guys to give a piece of euro (in Glendo for example - https://test.glendo.ru/news/201. rsa-gravirovki!), for a week of a master class from those who live by it, whatever did you put your hand in? It’s a pity that the prices were removed, but the memory remained.

Thanks for the tip about Avito, I didn’t even think in that direction. Any Chinese take is a pig in a poke, Berkut has been tested. There is no more budget pedal from the Fordom regulator, it just regulates the voltage.

I want to do it with the original pump motor, connected through a transformer, the voltage of which is regulated at the input by a pedal from Foredom (some regulate the output with a button from a screwdriver, but you have to use a pedal). One of Waltman's options. Foredom's turnover is not relevant to me. If you don’t like it, there is an option with a sewing machine drive, a pedal either native or from the same Foredom.

The alternating voltage at the output of the transformer is almost directly proportional to the voltage at the input, which I will regulate with the pedal. The output of the transformer is connected to a DC motor through a diode bridge. Current and/or voltage stabilization is not required in this case. For work, I may add a maximum speed limit to the scheme so that the leg does not get tired of catching the desired position.

It's the owner's business. For me, the pedal is better (stupidly switched on), and the adjustments are fixed separately.

Purpose of the graver

For engraving, the master needs a set of metal stamps of different shapes to engrave various elements of the image. The most common are:

Spitz is a wedge-shaped cutter with a slope of 30 to 40°, used to design the outline of an image and clear elements of great depth;
Messer - resembles a knife, the wedge slope is from 15 to 30°, it is used to make fine details;
flah - similar to a chisel blade 0.15-6 mm wide, used to select depressions in the design;
bol - a rounded point with a radius of 0.2-0.6 mm; with its help, semicircular depressions are selected, from which text elements of the design are formed;
hornbeam - diamond-shaped section, large elements on concave elements are chosen with it;
facet - a trapezoidal section with a blade sharpening angle from 50 to 115°, used for forming images of high complexity;
Shatir - the blade has a serrated shape with a distance between the teeth from 0.1 to 0.5 mm, it is used to obtain several parallel strokes.

Stichels for carving metal of other shapes are rarely used for restoration work and when making particularly complex images.

How to engrave metal at home

Applying a pattern to various objects by removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.

Making a gravel for engraving on metal

Making a serger of the simplest design is possible for a home craftsman with metalworking skills. To do this, take as a basis:

file or needle file;
spring leaf;
part of the bearing race.

Before you start sawing and forging metal, you should build a drawing of the tool. You will need not only a large-scale image of the cutter itself, but also a drawing of the handle.

Pneumostihel Sergei Valtman

and so, I played with these tubes and motors, gradually began to understand for myself what weight of pistons for what work, which compressor is better to take, the engine.

Well, there was an ambush with the turners, but my hands were itching terribly, I bought a lathe and started making my own version from a stainless tube. Based on my considerations, I chose the size of the tool holder and the intermediate impact element, to match the rubber bands that are available in the auto store, sat down and drew on graph paper, and this is the first option I got

The drawings were drawn by Rumen Radkov

Oleg has already posted the details on the forum. The pistons are only now different with fluoroplastic jackets

Of course, I ruined a couple of blanks, but then I got what I needed, well, of course, I sanded the .. raw .. stainless steel and carbonitrated the cylinder tube and lock nut, in the composition that I wrote about at the beginning, after two hours, the result was a beautiful black part like a weapon , with surface hardness, the file slides. Then I used felt and polishing paste to just add gloss and that’s it!

The pistons and tool holders were heated, but this was not worth doing, because after experience, I realized that all the parts can be carbonitrated and that’s it, volumetric hardening is not needed, there are no such impacts that something would rivet.

It is enough to select steel grades with the desired properties, as a result you can obtain a thick layer and high hardness, which also does not require grinding after technical maintenance.

But I’ll say right away that it turns out just great from ordinary food-grade stainless steel 12x18n10t. Here is the first sample, still with an all-steel piston, now they have started to make composite pistons, the jacket is sharpened from fluoroplastic, and it has a steel insert with a flange, to increase the area over which the impact is distributed, otherwise the core will simply pierce the fluoroplastic

Now the pistons have become weighing 1.5, 2.7 and 4.2 grams, respectively, for different jobs, like this

Why several different ones? In order not to make three handles as in GRS, but only three pistons, since the remaining intermediate forces of the piston impact are regulated by decreasing or increasing the piston stroke, due to the thread on the cylinder. The spring is selected to be somewhat longer, and as it is adjusted, it is shortened to the point where at maximum speed, with the spring fully screwed in, the piston strikes are barely audible. The spring was selected experimentally and the most suitable one is made of wire diameter 0.5-0.6mm

Here's a video on how to adjust the handle.

This makes it possible to have the widest range of power, from micro-engraving of names to upsetting thick prongs.

Here you can see the range of capabilities of this very simple machine.

from the side, the engraving of the stamp looks like this (the camera automatically amplifies the sound, in fact it is several times quieter)

This pneumatic clamp doesn’t even need a filter, what’s more, it’s absolutely insensitive to gaps, but it doesn’t pump air, it’s simply consumption-free, closed-loop)))

Adjusting the impact force is also possible in another way, for example, by increasing the parasitic volume, as in a pneumatic hammer, or by partially depressurizing the pneumatic system, for example, a forum member installed a depressurizing valve on the cylinder of the compressor block for adjustment.

Engraving with a graver on metal surfaces

Sticky engraving on metal requires the engraver to have a faithful eye, a steady hand and artistic taste, but above all, patience and perseverance. It is also necessary to decide on the material for the blanks. Copper and brass are more suitable for a novice craftsman. More experienced engravers work on other non-ferrous metals and soft steel alloys, using specific engraving methods and improved tools.

All that is needed for engraving tools and equipment is a work table and a set of gravers. At the first stage of mastering hand engraving technology, it is recommended to achieve stable quality of straight and curved strokes. When they begin to turn out confidently, you can move on to more complex elements of the image.

Before starting to engrave the workpiece, the master traditionally checks the sharpness of the sharpening pen by running it along the tip of the nail. If the strip can be cut without effort or pressure, the sharpness is sufficient. The handle is clamped in the working hand, the thumb and index fingers cover the incisor 10-20 mm from the tip.

The blade is pressed against the surface of the workpiece at an angle of 35-45°, then the angle is sharply reduced to 5-10°, while a piece of metal is cut out of the workpiece and a stroke is formed. For beginners, it is not recommended to limit their length to 3-4 mm. As you gain experience, you will begin to get longer ones.

How to forge a graver

Beginner engravers make do with purchased gravers or repurposed files. Mature craftsmen often feel the need for a reliable forged chisel.

Making a forged graver yourself requires intermediate level blacksmithing skills. Instructions on how to make a gravel using the hot forging method are given below.

Forging is divided into the following main stages:

forging workpieces;
hardening;
final processing and finishing.

During forging, it is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature of the part. It is determined by a pyrometer or the traditional method - by the color of the glow. At the beginning of the process, the part should be light yellow, in the last operations it should be light red.

A well-heated workpiece must be grabbed from the forge with pliers and placed on the anvil. Light, frequent blows knock off the scale. To obtain a rectangle, the cross-broaching technique is used. To form a triangular shape of a part, it is pulled longitudinally on the edge of the anvil, turning it at the required angle. A similar technique is used for broaching for a trapezoidal section shape.

In a more complex way, the blacksmith achieves a diamond-shaped section. First, the tip is pulled in one direction, then the product is turned over and pulled in the opposite direction. In this case, part of the part will have to be cut off.

The next operation is broaching the tail part of the cutter. it must be additionally calcined and stretched until a pyramidal tail is formed.

You can move on to the next stage - hardening. Hardening of carbon alloys is carried out in the following sequence:

heat the product to 805 ±15 °C;
quickly immerse in cold water;
check the degree of hardening with a file: if it slides over the metal without forming chips, then the required hardness has been achieved;
When chips form, quenching should be repeated.

And the final stage is machining. The grinder is given its final shape on the abrasive wheel. Here the blade is sharpened to the required sharpness. The final finishing is done on a fine-grained wheel.

Purpose of the graver

For engraving, the master needs a set of metal stamps of different shapes to engrave various elements of the image. The most common are:

Spitz is a wedge-shaped cutter with a slope of 30 to 40°, used to design the outline of an image and clear elements of great depth;
Messer - resembles a knife, the wedge slope is from 15 to 30°, it is used to make fine details;
flah - similar to a chisel blade 0.15-6 mm wide, used to select depressions in the design;
bol - a rounded point with a radius of 0.2-0.6 mm; with its help, semicircular depressions are selected, from which text elements of the design are formed;
hornbeam - diamond-shaped section, large elements on concave elements are chosen with it;
facet - a trapezoidal section with a blade sharpening angle from 50 to 115°, used for forming images of high complexity;
Shatir - the blade has a serrated shape with a distance between the teeth from 0.1 to 0.5 mm, it is used to obtain several parallel strokes.

Stichels for carving metal of other shapes are rarely used for restoration work and when making particularly complex images.