Powerful do-it-yourself metal cutting machine

TOP 6 drawings will help you make a cutting machine from an angle grinder with your own hands without errors and extra costs. Answers to frequently asked questions, recommendations.

TEST:

Is it possible to make a homemade cross-cutting machine from an angle grinder: a verification test with answers based on the materials presented

What switches are installed for emergency stop of the machine?

a) manual;

b) hand and foot.

Which angle grinders are suitable for creating a cutting machine?

a) pneumatic and electric;

b) battery-powered.

Minimum power of the electric motor of an angle grinder for a cutting machine from an angle grinder:

a) 400 W;

b) 900 W.

What machines can be made based on angle grinders?

a) trimming, cutting;

b) grinding, milling, sharpening.

Where can you place the grinder in the cutting machine?

a) above the tabletop;

b) under the tabletop.

Answers:

The correct option is b). Foot switches are more convenient because they operate quickly.
Theoretically, there is enough power in all three options. In practice, a) - electric and pneumatic models are used. A battery is not needed for a stationary machine. For a pneumatic drive, you will have to purchase a compressor of appropriate capacity.
900 W or more. Correction is made if workpieces made of relatively soft materials are expected to be processed, or at high speed.
Both options are correct. A powerful grinder is suitable for creating various machines at the household and semi-professional level.
Two mounting options are allowed. Experts prefer the top one.

An electric grinder performs many different work operations. To reduce labor costs while increasing accuracy, it is used as the basis for the machine.

“Bulgarian” is a common name for an angle grinder (angle grinder). By changing the disk, this universal device can be converted for cutting and performing other work operations.

Bulgarian women

§ 22. Technology for manufacturing products from metals and artificial materials

The manufacturing technology of a thin sheet metal product usually includes the following operations:

preparatory (selection of metal blanks, their editing and marking);
processing (cutting, bending, hole making);
assembly (connecting product parts with a seam seam or rivet);
finishing (cleaning the surfaces of parts, varnishing or painting).

A workpiece made of thin sheet metal must have allowances for processing, since it is impossible to find a workpiece that exactly matches the dimensions of the finished part. Allowances allow you to correct inaccuracies in the operations of marking or cutting a part. However, the allowances should not be large, since the metal used for allowances when processing the workpiece turns into waste. For example, if a tin product has dimensions of 150 x 190 mm, then for its manufacture you should take a workpiece with dimensions from 155 x 195 to 158 x 198 mm (Fig. 101), i.e., the allowance should be 5...8 mm.

Rice. 101. Making a box for small parts: a - drawing; 6 - technological process (1-9)

When making a product from wire (Fig. 102), first select and mark the blanks of the parts from which it consists. Then the blanks are cut and bent in accordance with the drawing. The resulting parts are cleaned, connected to each other into a finished product, which is then varnished or painted.

Rice. 102. Making a screwdriver: a - drawing; b - technological process (1-7)

If you need to make a product from sheet plastic (Fig. 103), then the workpiece is first marked, then the holes of the internal contours are processed. After this, the outer contours are cut out, the surfaces are cleaned and, if necessary, painted.

Rice. 103. Making a number plate for an apartment door (blank - made plexiglass): a - general view (the number and location of the mounting holes is assigned by the student); b - technological process (1-8)

Figures 101-103 show the technological processes for manufacturing three products: boxes for small parts (made of thin sheet metal), screwdrivers (made of wire) and a number plate for the apartment door (made of sheet plastic - plexiglass).

In school workshops, when making a part from metal or artificial material, students usually work according to a technological map (in the form of a table), which sets out the technological process for manufacturing the part.

At enterprises, technological processes for manufacturing parts from metal and artificial materials are developed by technologists.

Practical work No. 20

Development of technology for manufacturing parts from metals and artificial materials

Read a teacher-provided drawing of a sheet metal, wire, plastic part, or a drawing of a part from your own creative project.
Write down the technological sequence of manufacturing this part in your workbook (see Fig. 101-103). Compare your notes.
Determine what tools you will need to make this part and write down their names in your workbook.

Find on the Internet an example of the technological process for manufacturing other parts from thin sheet metal and wire.

Testing your knowledge

Remember (from the section “Technologies for manual processing of wood and wood materials”) what a technological process and a technological operation are. What operations are used in the manufacture of products from thin sheet metal, wire and plastic in educational workshops?
How are the technological processes for manufacturing parts made of wood and metal similar?
What is an allowance for machining a sheet metal part?
Why is the product cleaned before painting?

Marking

The next stage of preparing parts for welding is carried out manually or using special devices. The simplest devices are a core, a metal ruler and a caliper. The metal surface is pre-primed so that the marks are clearly visible. In continuous production, templates are made, applied, and traced.

There is a distinction between the concepts of “basing” and marking. The first is the creation of a preliminary contour, the second involves punching around the entire perimeter and marking. Basting is needed when using templates. It is first outlined with a scriber, and then the contour is passed with a core. When marking manually, core punching is carried out immediately.

Marking workpieces manually is difficult and time-consuming. Preparation and assembly of workpieces using optical or dimensional cutting is preferable. Marking and marking machines have been created for marking metal; they operate on the basis of optics according to a given program. The core moves quickly, the marked sheet metal leaves the machine at a speed of up to 10 meters per minute.

The marking stage is carried out manually or using special devices

Advantages of homemade equipment

Homemade accessories for hand tools are very popular. The demand is explained by the fact that they do not take up much space in the workshop, which is very convenient in small spaces such as a garage or basement, which is what do-it-yourselfers mainly use.

Another advantage of homemade equipment is that the owner will make it well, although such homemade equipment will add weight, but it will have a margin of safety.

Drawings of such equipment are available for general use, but many craftsmen modify them independently, based on their own needs.

What exactly are we talking about?

There are dozens of traditional designs of units for precise cutting of sheet, roll and long materials, not counting lasers, etc. from the age of high technology. We will further consider machines with a swinging working module and a round rotating cutting element - an abrasive or saw blade. Such cutting machines are called pendulum. They are the most versatile (including suitable for broaching - making longitudinal cuts of limited length) and can be done independently in a shed and garage workshop. When they say “cutting machine,” in the vast majority of cases they mean a pendulum cut grinder.

Motor or angle grinder?

This refers to the machine drive - separate or combined in a monoblock with a working (cutting) element and a power transmission to it. A separate motor has the advantage that the swinging part of the unit - the rocker (pendulum, rocker arm) can be made properly balanced, which greatly simplifies the work on the machine and increases its productivity; the latter depends relatively weakly on the cutting resistance of the material

In addition, the entire machine can be made suitable for intensive round-shift work, which can be important for those who earn income with hands that grow in the right place and a head that works as it should. An angle grinder (grinder), as you know, can work continuously for 20-60 minutes

(depending on the model), and then forced technical downtime to cool down the instrument. But for occasional use, an angle grinder has a number of advantages:

A fairly durable and accurate cutting machine from a grinder can be made without turning parts and with a minimum of welding work or without it at all, see below.
The basic tool remains suitable for manual work outside the machine.
Power supply – single-phase 220 V from a household outlet.
Starting devices and protective grounding are not required, because Only angle grinders with double insulation are widely sold.
The external characteristic of the commutator electric motor of an angle grinder is softer than that of an asynchronous electric motor with a squirrel-cage rotor, which saves motor power and electricity consumption. In most cases (except for cutting thick, strong and/or viscous materials), we can assume that an 800 W electrical angle grinder is equivalent to an asynchronous motor with 1.2 kW on the shaft (see below), and a 1300 W angle grinder is equivalent to a separate 2.0 kW motor. 2 kW.
Cutting machines made from angle grinders are lighter, more compact and transportable than those with a separate drive.
Inexpensive angle grinders are not equipped with speed controllers, but a regular speed controller for a drill is suitable for them (no more than $20; usually $5 - $6). A “frequency generator” for an asynchronous motor up to 2.5 kW costs from $50.

About speed control

Why adjust the disk speed? In order not to exceed the maximum linear speed of the edge and/or rotation speed indicated on it. Otherwise, the disc may not rupture, but its performance will drop significantly, wear will increase, and the quality of the cut will deteriorate. The nominal rotation speeds of asynchronous motors 2800-2850 rpm allow the use of conventional disks with a diameter of up to 350-400 mm or more, which gives a cutting depth of at least 150 mm. The grinder spindle rotates much faster (from 6000 rpm), and placing a regular disk with a diameter of more than 160 mm on it is dangerous. The cutting depth reaches 50-60 mm, and the high-speed disc is expensive and wears out quickly. Installing a speed controller solves the problem. Productivity and cut quality do not suffer, because determined by the linear speed of rotation along the cutting edge.

About the name

An angle grinder sounds “technically”, but in fact it is inaccurate, because... The grinder does a lot more cutting than grinding. The “angle drill” is even worse, because... to drill – to drill, bore, for which an angle grinder is generally unsuitable. An angle grinder is a tracing paper from English. "angle grinder machine". But the English word to grind is much broader in meaning than all types of abrasive processing. For example, a meat grinder is a meat grinder. “To grind” does not have an exact Russian analogue; in meaning it is something like “shred into shreds along the back streets.” In general, the colloquial “Bulgarian” is terminologically incorrect, but it is short enough and it is clear what it is.

Sequencing

A homemade cutting machine must meet the design features of the disk device. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to make careful calculations.

The wizard's procedure is as follows:

The tool being manufactured belongs to the class of dangerous, so first you should take care of the manufacture of protective casings. They will cover all cutting elements of the structure.

The disk will rotate due to the motor, which must be connected correctly - to the cutting element through transmission, to the network through wiring.

The drive has a pulley; it must be mounted on a pre-prepared shaft. The engine and disk are located at the top of the structure, representing a pendulum.

The machine frame serves as a place to place the spark arrester and the workpieces themselves.

After mounting the pendulum to the frame, it’s time for the wiring.

After a trial run, if there are any shortcomings in the work, the elements are debugged.

The electric motor is the most important component, therefore the start and emergency stop elements must be installed in full accordance with the diagram.

How it works

This type of cutting equipment falls under the category of circular cutting machines. In its design, the cutting disc is mounted on a special frame, and the power source for the machine is the electrical network. The presence of the word “cutting” in the name indicates that the cutting disk is lowered during cutting, and after the end of the working cycle it returns to its original position.

The powerful cutting blade allows you to make cuts in a wide range of materials - not only metal and wood, but also tile, plastic, glass and porcelain. To work with wood, you can install a blade used in circular saws on the machine.

Procedure for making your own machine

You can assemble a high-quality machine with your own hands only by studying each of the key elements separately.

Engine

The power of the electric motor depends on how hard the metal will be processed and how often the homemade machine will be used. The optimal power range is from 1.5 to 3 kW. The number of revolutions must be at least 2500 per minute. We must not forget about the required current strength. For a home workshop, the best connection option would be a common 220 volt network. It is advisable to choose an engine with the ability to change the number of revolutions.

Separately, we need to talk about the diameter of the cutting discs. Optimal sizes are from 300 to 400 mm. The larger the disk, the more revolutions it requires for high-quality processing. However, on any consumable, the maximum number of rotations per minute that are allowed during cutting is indicated. Most often, the maximum is at 4400 rpm.

Drive unit

To make the drive, you need to use a belt drive. To make it, you need to find two pulleys that will be equal in diameter. Attach one pulley to the shaft from the electric motor. The second is installed on the drive shaft of the abrasive disc. Next, the shaft of the equipment is fixed on two bearings. The motor must be installed on the back side of the finished pendulum. For this, 4 bolts are used. The fasteners must be installed in slots that allow the engine to be moved by 5 centimeters. This will allow you to select the optimal belt tension. With a moving engine on a homemade machine, it is easier to change consumables and belts.

Console pendulum

The console is a key piece of equipment, the assembly of which determines the accuracy of the cuts. For the base of the pendulum, you will need two bushings, which must be made from a metal square measuring 4x4 cm. Their height should not exceed 10 cm. Holes must be made in the racks to secure the bushing shaft. Next, a rocker arm is welded to it. A surface is installed to secure the electric motor. The lever for lowering the disk to the workpiece is calculated depending on the desire of the person.

Desktop

Principles of making a desktop:

Make a cut through which the disk will pass while cutting metal workpieces.
Dimensions are selected depending on the stroke of the pendulum and the diameter of the equipment.
Additionally, you can build a broaching mechanism.
Install a side clamp so that you can clamp the workpieces while cutting.

The optimal thickness of a metal sheet for a desktop is about 4 mm.

Homemade desktop

Sheet steel cutting machine

Grinder machines, which can be used to cut steel sheet material, are much more complex than conventional pendulum ones. The main difficulty here is that the sheet of metal has certain linear dimensions and it is necessary to maintain evenness of cutting along the entire line. Another difficulty here can be considered the effect of heating the cutting area, during which the metal expands and clamps the angle grinder disk in the channel, which is fraught with jamming and rupture of the tool with all the ensuing consequences. The main parts of such a machine:

Base. Ideally, it should be no smaller than the sheet that is supposed to be cut with a grinder, or allow the entire cutting area to be laid on it. It is necessary to use steel as a manufacturing material so that it absorbs heat, preventing the steel cutting line from overheating.
U-shaped stand. This structural element serves as a guide for pulling the angle grinder through. The length of the section between the legs of the stand should be sufficient to place a sheet between them, plus allow the body of the angle grinder to fit freely.
The carriage is a movable element that moves along a U-shaped stand on bearings. A pendulum console and a depth limiter for lowering the cutting disc are attached to it.
The pendulum console serves as a mechanism for lowering the angle grinder to the level of the working position. Also attached to it is a tool control handle.

Why make a machine from an angle grinder

A cutting machine is a useful and necessary thing, not only in industrial conditions, but also in the household. With this useful tool you can make precise cuts of parts and workpieces. This is achieved by securely fixing the cutting disc, into the spindle of which you can install not only abrasive wheels for cutting metal. A stationary machine can be used for cutting tiles, bricks, marble, granite and other similar materials, using special diamond-coated wheels in the design of the tool. If necessary, such a machine can be used for sawing beams, boards and other wood workpieces.

Many people who have repeatedly faced the need to make an accurate cut of a workpiece want to know how to make their own cutting machine from an angle grinder and available materials. Holding the grinder in your hands, you can also make a precise cut, but it is more difficult to do this, since you have to hold the tool exclusively with both hands. Using a homemade cutting machine, you can not only perform, but also simplify the following work:

Cut sheet material, such as galvanizing, used for chimney insulation and other purposes
Cut ceramic tiles and tiles - keep in mind that the cut can only be made straight
Cut materials at different angles
Cut a metal profile, pipe, wooden beams, boards, etc.

The manufacture of a machine from a grinder requires an appropriate approach. After all, the tool itself is very dangerous, so the slightest miscalculation can lead to the master being seriously injured. The consequences of working with an angle grinder if safety regulations are not observed are known, so first, before building a homemade product, it is worth noting the following:

Only with the correct manufacture of a stationary cutting machine can you be confident in its reliability and safety
If you plan to do it, then you need to calculate every step so that no disaster happens during operation.
Using a machine is in some ways safer than using a tool while holding it in your hands. However, you need to be aware that an angle grinder is a mobile tool, and making a homemade one is already a violation of safety regulations
For manufacturing, it is necessary to use materials of appropriate reliability, corresponding to the power and size of the main power tool.

Having dealt with the need to manufacture the machine, you can get down to business.

This is interesting!
If you can’t decide whether it’s better to buy a new machine or make it yourself, then the second option is more preferable, since the cost of a factory device will cost at least 10,000 rubles.
If you make it yourself, you won’t need any expenses, since the grinder is already on the household, and the components can be found in the garage. https://youtube.com/watch?v=3ZogZ3Thre4%3F

Advantages of homemade equipment

Another advantage of homemade equipment is that the owner will make it well, although such homemade equipment will add weight, but it will have a margin of safety.

Drawings of such equipment are available for general use, but many craftsmen modify them independently, based on their own needs.

What does a lathe consist of?

Typical design

Even a small lathe weighs a lot and creates vibrations during operation. A reliable frame (1) is required, on which functional units and individual parts are secured. If you plan to create a floor version, use reliable supports of the required length. The final height of the work area should be user-friendly.

The following list contains other components:

The front headstock (3) houses the gearbox. It is designed to adjust the spindle (4) rotation speed and change the torque value.
On the reverse side, the workpiece is supported by the tailstock (6). If necessary, taps, drills, and other tools are also installed here.
In the standard processing mode, the cutters are fixed in a special holder (5).
This unit is mounted on a support (8). For smooth horizontal movement, a screw mechanism located in the apron (7) is used.
The feed box (2) drives the drive shaft.

Lathe support

Device

Notes on the drawing:

the carriage (1) and the entire block as a whole (17) are driven by the running shaft (2);
the movement mechanism is connected with a special handle (15);
these slides (3) provide freedom of movement of the upper part in the transverse direction (12);
it is mounted on a rotating unit (4) with longitudinal guides (5);
the cutters are installed in the holder (6);
screws (7/8) are used to secure this part/tools;
the handle (9) can be used to safely move the cutters at a distance from the working area;
fastening element (10) of the upper part (11);
for its precise movement in the appropriate directions, handles (13, 14) with a screw drive are used;
The flywheel (16) moves the caliper manually.

When studying this part of a metal lathe in detail, it is necessary to take into account the increased loads to which it is exposed during technological operations.

It is necessary to pay attention to the large number of moving components

Maintaining precision requires more than just durable parts. Constant adjustments will help eliminate play to compensate for wear. It is recommended to replace damaged seals with new products.

Tailstock

Main components of the unit

Here and further we will consider projects that are easy to reproduce on your own with clarifying comments. The example in the figure is more suitable for woodworking equipment. To work with durable workpieces for a long time, you should make a support shoe from a steel plate.

In addition to the standard equipment, such replacement devices will be useful

With their help, the basic capabilities of the tailstock are expanded. The author's recommendations suggest removing part of the standard cartridge mount (3). This will allow you to increase the working stroke of the tool and process larger workpieces.

Features of making a lathe headstock with your own hands

Simple design solutions are used to make homemade products.

A belt drive (1) is used here, which is characterized by its low cost and low noise level. For stepwise change of torque, a double pulley (2) is installed. To extend the life of the spindle (3), you need to use a pair of ball bearings. If necessary, holes are made in the housing for periodic filling of lubricant.

As a rule, a metal lathe is equipped with three-jaw chucks

These clamps center automatically without further adjustment. Making such units yourself will cause difficulties. Therefore, you can buy this functional element of the headstock of a lathe in a store.

Models with four jaws are used for processing square workpieces.

How to make a tool holder for a lathe with your own hands

It is better to make the main part of the holder in a collapsible design

This will allow you to make repairs without unnecessary difficulties. Bolts are screwed into the threaded holes to firmly secure the tool. The distance between the plates is determined taking into account the size of the cutters.

A handle is installed on top to quickly turn the unit. This device allows you to quickly change tools for complex sequential processing of workpieces

How a pendulum saw works and works

Any pendulum saw, regardless of whether it is made by hand or produced by a well-known manufacturer, has the following components in its design:

bed;
powerful electric motor;
saw blade;
protective casing;
return mechanism;
clamp for clamping the sawn product.

Arrangement of pendulum saw units

The massive, heavy saw frame is made of cast metal to ensure stability of the tool during operation. All other saw components are attached to it. First of all, this is a pendulum arm on which a powerful electric motor is mounted, an elongated shaft with grooves and screw threads for installing a saw blade. This lever has a spring mechanism that returns it to its original position after finishing cutting the product.

A button to turn on the saw is installed on the lever handle. For ease of use of the tool, a latch is added to the button that blocks the tool from turning off when the button is released. The cutting tool is completely covered with a protective casing, protecting a person from injury during operation. On some models, manufacturers install two casings - one fixed, the second sliding, completely covering the cutting zone.

Device with description of nodes

A pendulum saw for metal is used not only when working with metal products. It can work with wood, ceramics, and plastic. But to cut other materials you need to use a different cutting blade. Various cutting attachments can be supplied as a set, but can also be sold at retail.

A clamp consisting of two parts is attached to the frame for clamping the product being cut. The first part is rotating, which can be rotated at an angle of up to 45°. It has a pointer and a scale graduated in degrees. The second part has a screw adjustment of the pressure. The clamping jaw on the second part has a hinged fastening, which allows you to firmly fix the part at any turn to the front of the cut of the product, guaranteeing an accurate cut at the selected angle.

This is interesting: Band sawmill for longitudinal cutting of Taiga logs (video)

Why are cutting machines needed?

Summer cottages always require minor repairs: replacing a greenhouse post that has worn out over time, making a metal fence for a plot of land, repairing a garden wheelbarrow or cart - cutting metal at right angles or with a bevel is always necessary. Making blanks for any metal products is easier and more efficient using the machine.

Using cutting machines, you can cut any materials: steel, cast iron, copper. Cutting is done at angles of 45º and 90º. You can make products with your own hands from pipes of all diameters. As a rule, cutting mechanisms are used for cutting semi-finished products into measured lengths.

Metal processing equipment can also be used to process other materials, eliminating the work of the cutter. The machine, made with your own hands, is compact; it is possible to install it under a canopy, and in winter, move it to the workroom.

You need a flat and hard surface with lighting. A similar corner can be found on the site of any building. All-welded and dismountable equipment designs are used. In order to reduce manufacturing costs, the device can be periodically given to neighbors for temporary use.

Design

This device has a fairly wide range of applications, depending on the type of disk used. They can cut metal pipes or corners, as well as do the same with wood and plastic. It turns out to be quite a multifunctional device, which also allows you to use the angle grinder in a mobile way; it is mounted on a lever and can be removed at any convenient time.

Machine design

In fact, it is clear that the device itself is a support in a holder for an angle grinder, thanks to the design of which it is possible to carry out a large number of operations, including wood processing.

At the same time, the frame itself can be implemented in a number of ways while maintaining the general design idea, consisting of:

lower support frame;
guides and devices for fastening workpieces;
lever device with a mounting device for an angle grinder.

The simplest homemade machine

The better the design is designed, the more convenient and the greater the number of operations that can be performed without it. Well-designed drawings of such a machine can be seen in the photo. It is not difficult to assemble such a structure with your own hands by cutting and welding. The resulting device will not only replace a plunge-cut circular saw, but will also allow cutting a wide range of materials, from sheet to volumetric workpieces. This is a convenient and useful household device with a practical orientation.

Making a stationary circular saw with your own hands

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular saw from 9 thousand rubles. It will ensure proper work safety and save time on sawing wood. But, you can not spend money and make your own machine according to drawings and blanks.

Circulation saw table

Despite the external complexity of the design, it is not so difficult to assemble it yourself at home. Any stationary saw model consists of several elements:

table;
disc with teeth;
engine;
adjustable side support;
shaft

Complete compact installation

To assemble all the parts of the circular saw, prepare:

metal sheet from 8 mm thick;
metal corner 45 by 45 mm;
electric motor;
disc with teeth;
ball bearing;
welding machine;
block of wood;
a piece of plastic or leftover laminate.

To make all the elements correctly, you should choose a drawing that will indicate the dimensions of the table for a hand-held circular saw, as well as all other dimensions and materials for the work. Here are some examples of ready-made schemes:

A simple version of the tableDimensions of the disk for home toolsDetailed plan with all dimensions3D model of the table

The assembly of the structure itself will proceed according to a certain plan, regardless of the chosen scheme:

Illustration Sequence of work

The tabletop must be made strong and stable. Use sheet metal according to your dimensions

If you plan to install other devices on the table, then arrange a place for them using thick plywood.

When making a guide for a circular saw with your own hands, pay attention to its height. It should protrude 12 cm above the table

This way you will have the opportunity to process the boards in width and thickness. To make a guide, take two pieces of corner and a clamp.

Make the central saw adjustable in height.

For the motor, mount a separate platform on the same axis with the rocker arm. Fix it with a bolt with a diameter of 1.5 cm. Install a metal plate on the side of the saw, having previously made a hole in it through which the bolt with attached handles passes.

For more detailed instructions on making a stationary circular saw, see the video:

Watch this video on YouTube

a circular saw

We make a circular saw from an angle grinder with our own hands: drawings and production videos

To create a circular saw with your own hands, you need to prepare a grinder engine, a profile rectangular pipe and steel corners. To get a truly comfortable saw, it is worth considering a stop, an axis handle and rods for adjustment.

Here are some do-it-yourself drawings of a stand for an angle grinder. Using them you can assemble a stop that allows the saw to slide.

Option drawing for workAssembled equipment

The order of assembly of the stop will be as follows:

Several metal angles are required for a standard "T" stop. Place them at a distance of 3-4 mm on each side of the disk.
The edges at the bottom must be rounded to avoid scratches on the workpiece during operation.
Attach the corners with cross braces to the bolts and nuts on the front and back. The slots are fixed with washers.
Place a metal clamp on the body. At the rear, you fasten the elements so that the thrust post and the clamp become one.
Drill 2-4 mounting holes in the gearbox housing. It is more convenient to do this in the disassembled state of the element.

After assembling the stop, make an axial handle and an adjusting rod. Watch the video on how to make a frame for an angle grinder with your own hands according to the drawings:

Watch this video on YouTube

After connecting all the elements, your homemade circular grinder will be ready. In addition to it, various parts can be made. Here are some photos of DIY circular saw accessories:

A simple stop made from a long wooden beam. A quick version of a table for a circular table. A cover for a disk with teeth. A convenient work table.

Sharpening two-handed saws yourself or how to simply restore an old long hacksaw

If you have an old two-handed hacksaw Druzhba-2 in the garage, then before using it, it is recommended to restore its integrity

Before using the tool, pay attention to the following points:

Handles - wooden handles may have dried out over a long period of non-use, so it is possible that they could freely fall out of the holes. You can restore the serviceability of the handles by dipping them in water for several hours so that they swell. You can also machine new handles for the tool, which won’t take a lot of time and effort.
The presence of corrosion on the canvas - signs of rust should be eliminated, and then treat the device with machine oil
Sharpening the teeth - after storing the tool for a long time in the garage, there is a high probability that the hacksaw needs to restore the sharpness of the teeth

If there are no difficulties with restoring the handles and removing corrosion, then sharpening the teeth is just the opposite. A large saw requires a lot of time and effort to restore the integrity of the links. However, there is an advantage to this, since large teeth are much more convenient to sharpen. Although the tool differs from an ordinary hand hacksaw, however, the principle of restoring the sharpness of the teeth is similar. A step-by-step description of sharpening teeth on a two-handed saw has the following format:

First you need to fix the tool. It will not be possible to do this in the jaws of even the largest vice, so we use two corresponding board lengths. We place the boards parallel to the blade, leaving only the teeth visible. If you don’t have a vice, you can use a clamp
Work should begin with setting the teeth. All teeth must be the same height. You can determine the presence of protruding links by eye, and to align them with the rest, you should work with a flat file
At the next stage, it is necessary to align the teeth at the same angle of deviation from the plane of the blade. To perform the wiring, you will need a special tool. It is also recommended that you first make a template (layout) to check whether the links are sufficiently spaced (or buy one). The teeth should be spaced 0.5 mm from the plane of the blade or 1 mm from each other. The wiring process is performed one by one. Not many craftsmen know how often to set teeth. According to the rules, it is necessary to carry out setting no more often than 1 time per 5-6 sharpening of teeth
As soon as the teeth are set apart, you can move on to the final and most important stage - sharpening. For this, a special triangular file is used, the size of which must be no less than the height of the teeth
Correct sharpening is performed by moving the file away from you with medium pressure against the tooth. In the reverse position, the file should not touch the blade. It is necessary to pass the file confidently, but not quickly
First you need to go along one side of the teeth, and then along the other. When sharpening, you should also choose the appropriate angle from 35 to 70 degrees.

Finally, all that remains is to treat the tool blade with machine oil and use it for sawing thick logs, trees and even lumber. When carrying out work, it is recommended to follow safety precautions to avoid injury.

This is interesting! If you have mastery of working with a grinder, you can sharpen the teeth with a power tool with an abrasive disc.