Do-it-yourself drilling machine from a steering rack

General information

A drill press is most often used to drill parts. It carries out its work using the power of an electric motor, which, by rotating its shaft, transmits forces to the main rotational element of the unit or spindle. To the last one add:

adapters;
drill;
cartridges;
bushings.

In essence, such a machine is a mechanism fixed in a stable position, designed for drilling various parts for quite a long time.

A person working on such a unit only needs to place parts in a timely manner, adjust their position and control the operation of the machine. This is much more convenient than if you had to work manually. In addition, it is impossible to achieve high accuracy as a result of manual drilling. The fact is that a person needs to choose the right angle for applying effort. An error of a few degrees can be fatal. And not everyone can handle working at such a pace.

It's a completely different matter when a drilling machine is used for work. In this case, you only need to fix the part in a vice , and then start the machine. All subsequent actions will not take much time and effort.

This is interesting: Milling cutter for cutting door locks and hinges: setup, templates and cutters, video

Make or buy?

An electric drill is a ready-made drive, gear, spindle and chuck in a monoblock. Place it on the carriage of the machine and you can drill. In terms of accuracy, the solution, generally speaking, is not optimal (see below), but in many cases it is acceptable, but eliminates the need to order expensive turned parts of increased accuracy, see below. In view of this, frames for installing drills are now sold only on the street from trays; prices are affordable. When choosing one to make a drilling machine from a drill, be guided primarily by the operating mode of the equipment; The price also depends on it:

Occasional drilling/milling for yourself with the accuracy of what you get - cast plastic bed or stamped steel. The feed mechanism is lever with a cranked lever (see below). Carriage sliding bearings (see below) are steel on steel or with nylon liners. Prices are $20-$30.
Regular drilling for yourself or to order with ordinary machine-building precision. The materials processed are up to the hardness and toughness of ordinary structural steel. Everything is the same, but the sliding bearings are steel on steel (worse) or with bronze bushings, and the frame is cast iron or (more expensive) composite, also vibration-absorbing. Prices: $30-$40.
Regular drilling and milling of any materials that can be tooled with periodic overloads of the tool and/or with increased accuracy - plain bearings are only bronze on steel, cast iron frame. The feed mechanism is rack and pinion (see below); vibration-absorbing console. Prices: $60-$180.

Choosing a bed

The stand for the drill (which sellers for some reason stubbornly call stands) must be chosen not according to - not “China”); Now the market is full of “German China”, not to mention products from post-Soviet states. The design needs to be checked.

First, samples with plastic non-nylon liners for sliding bearings are definitely rejected: runout and drill drift of more than 0.5 mm will appear already on the 10th – 20th “hole” and will further increase. The second is console play. We take it by the far end, swing it up and down and to the sides while holding the latch. There should be no noticeable “chatter” (the tactile sense of an untrained person feels a beat of 0.4-0.5 mm).

Next is an inspection of the structure, see Fig. below. For regular drilling, the one shown in pos. 1. The ideal option is at pos. 2: collet clamp of the drill, shifting the column to the side reduces the vibration of the console by an order of magnitude, and by turning it sideways by 45 degrees, you can mill the part by hand with the precision “as best you can” on a standard fixed table, removing a couple of table fasteners, because in this case, its manual displacement relative to the horizontal working axis of the console will be linear.

How to choose a bed (stand) for a drill

And here is a sample for pos. 3 do not take under any circumstances. Firstly, the collar of its column is low and its fastening is unreliable. Secondly, longitudinal grooves under the table facilitate manual milling “as it happens,” but, unlike diagonal ones, they do not dampen vibrations of the bed. Moreover, they will concentrate where shown by the arrows (the tide under the column is made too narrow) and from there they will go straight into the column and table.

Which is cheaper?

Bench Drill Press Spindle Drawings

Let’s say the price for the machine you like doesn’t suit you. Or a drill, if it’s a “crowbar” one, with an impact mechanism, that was used in work on building structures and the beating of the chuck is visible to the eye. Then the first thing we do is find out if there is a craftsman within reach who owns a lathe with high precision (no rougher than 0.02 mm). Which, by the way, is not a fact - a high-precision machine is very expensive and never pays off with the flow of regular orders. But let's say he was found. We take the drawing in Fig. on the right, we go to him and ask if he can turn it out of steel no worse than 30KhGSA, and how much he will charge for the work. “This” is the drawings of the tabletop drill spindle. The rest of its parts can be turned on a regular machine, or found in ruins at an iron market or in your trash. Most likely, it will turn out that it is cheaper to buy a bed + table, and if you estimate the costs for the rest, then perhaps a drill of increased accuracy will emerge. There are some of these on sale; they can be recognized by the absence of a striking mechanism and a collar specifically for installation in the frame: a turned steel cuff is put on it.

Design features of the machine

In order to easily cope with the work, you need to understand what the unit consists of along with its components.

An ordinary drilling machine consists of the following parts:

bed;
holders for the working mechanism;
additional elements (nuts, drills, cartridges, bushings);
vice;
rotation handles for mechanisms, force transmitters, etc.;
main frame guides;
working mechanism;
shock absorber;
power unit.

The design itself is nothing complicated. The frame is attached as a base. If we consider a tabletop sample (and homemade machines are most often tabletop), then the bed in this case will be used both as a mount for devices such as a vice, and as a stabilizing factor, and also as a base. The main frame is attached to the frame, on which the entire mechanism will be supported. A holder, shock absorber and additional elements are connected to the frame. In the case of an adjustable shock absorber, a handle is connected to it.

The machine motor is attached to the main frame , to which the spindle and adapters are then connected. The power supply is available only in models in which the engine is installed separately, and it is not capable of taking on loads coming from the household network.

Selection of necessary elements

A homemade unit is assembled from improvised means, so special attention should be paid to the selection of design parts.

First of all, you need to select the material for the bed. It should only be metal. A heavy plate may be suitable, in which the holes necessary for future vices and clamping bars are drilled. It is best to purchase a mobile one or remove the old bed from a used tabletop machine.

The main stabilizing rail is made of an angle or channel with a thickness of at least 3 mm. This part does not produce vibrations or play and is able to withstand loads. The holder for the working mechanism is also made of steel. In this case, the choice depends on the engine that will be used.

The main point in such a do-it-yourself machine design is that parts from a car steering rack are used to assemble the unit , since it is compact and has unique capabilities.

During rotation, the steering rack raises and lowers the mechanism that is attached to it. Such manipulations should be carried out very carefully, down to one millimeter. Many steering racks have the ability to weaken or increase tension, leading to the possibility of fine adjustment of operation.

It is best to remove the handles from finished machines, but you can make them yourself. You can use production bushings and chucks in the same way because they are fairly easy to obtain.

Selection of working mechanism

This element in a do-it-yourself drilling machine is not only traditional, but also significantly simplified. In this case, we are talking about replacing the power supply and motor with a finished drill or unit , which is used for drilling metal, concrete, etc. Such portable tools have almost the same dimensions as an ordinary drill. However, they are so powerful that they can drill through metal without much resistance.

The drill should be attached with a small number of staples, having first secured it in the desired position. It should be located perpendicular to the base of the unit.

Using a drill in a machine diagram from a steering rack is considered preferable. In this case, the time required to assemble the unit will be significantly less. You can also install an asynchronous motor from any electrical appliance. In this case, the assembly takes much longer. But the technology will remain the same.

Main stages of work

First of all, using a clamp, the author attaches the electric drill to the steering rack: the master installs the clamp itself approximately in the middle of the body, and in the lower part attaches the drill to the rack using a bolt and nuts.

After this, you need to make the base of the stand. In this case, the master uses a ready-made platform with fastening. We install and fix the steering rack of the car.

Then all that remains is to make a handle with which you can lower and raise the electric drill during the drilling process. The device is completely ready for use.

You can watch the video to learn more about how to make a drill stand from a car steering rack with your own hands.

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Selecting suitable elements

Assembling a homemade machine involves using available tools, so the selection of individual parts for the design must be given serious attention.

First of all, the material for the frame is selected. In lightweight machines, such as units for printed circuit boards, the frame can even be made of durable wood, having previously been reinforced with a steel plate and rubber feet. But since we are considering a much more serious unit, we need to approach its assembly differently.

The bed here can only be selected from metal. Moreover, a heavy plate or something similar will do. It is necessary to drill holes in the plate for future vices and clamping strips.

The ideal option would be if you manage to buy a mobile one or remove the old bed from an ancient desktop machine. Now look at your capabilities.

The machine will need an internal rod with teeth

The main stabilizing rail is made from an angle or channel. Its thickness must be no less than 3 mm. Only such a part can withstand loads and will not cause vibrations or play.

The holder for the working mechanism is also made of steel. Here the selection is made depending on the engine itself that they intend to use. We'll look at it a little later.

The main nuance in such a homemade machine design is that parts from the steering rack of a car are used to assemble it. This is due to its compactness and unique capabilities.

When rotated, the steering rack can raise or lower the mechanism fixed to it. Moreover, the manipulations are carried out very carefully, down to the millimeter. Plus, many steering racks have the ability to weaken or increase stress, which leads to the possibility of fine adjustment of its operation.

It is advisable to remove handles from finished machines, but you can create them yourself. Likewise, if necessary, it is recommended to use production chucks and bushings. Fortunately, they are very easy to get.

Selection of working mechanism

Interestingly, the working mechanism in a homemade drilling machine can be not only traditional, but also significantly simplified. We are talking about replacing the motor and power supply with a ready-made drill or unit for drilling concrete, metal, etc. These portable tools have almost the same dimensions as a regular drill. However, their power allows you to drill into metal without any serious resistance.

All that is required of you in this scheme is to attach the drill with several brackets, having first secured it in the correct position. It should be directed completely perpendicular to the base of the machine.

If the machine diagram is considered from the steering wheel, then the use of a drill is even preferable. And it will take you much less time to assemble it.

Device for attaching a drill to the machine frame

The second option is to install an asynchronous motor from some electrical appliance. Here, when assembling it with your own hands, you will have to tinker a little longer. But in general, the technology remains the same.

Stages of assembling a homemade machine from a steering wheel

Let us turn directly to the machine assembly technology. As a basis, we will take a diagram using a steering wheel from a VAZ car and a ready-made drill, which only needs to be fixed and connected correctly.

Stages of work:

We understand the frame and mount it in the correct position.
We bore grooves and holes in the frame for future vices.
We mount the main rail from a corner or channel.
We attach the steering wheel to it.
We mount it on the steering handle and adjust its travel.
We install it on the upper part of the steering mount under the drill.
We mount the drill in the correct position and adjust its angle.
We finally fix the working mechanism.
We connect all the wires, tighten the bolts, and test the system.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this matter.

Drilling machine from steering rack and drill

The process is significantly simplified by using ready-made solutions, such as a drill and a steering wheel. Basically, all you have to do is put them all together and make sure the assembly is done correctly.

Differences when assembling a machine with an asynchronous engine

If you are going to use a separate engine, then you will have to think a little here. Although the engine itself creates effort, it still needs to be transferred somehow.

In this case, the engines are often mounted parallel to the steering one, and the mechanism itself is installed on the other side. The transmission of forces is carried out through a standard mechanism of two wheels and a belt. The spindle on the shaft can be taken from the factory; the chuck and all other parts are connected to it.

Also, the engine will probably require a separate power supply, which is placed on or near the frame. And it would be better to hide the entire structure under a metal or wooden case. To avoid possible clogging, breakdowns or accidents.

How to make a drilling machine from a steering rack? (video)

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Manufacturing from plywood

A drilling machine whose frame and pulleys are made from structural steel is very durable.
But not every craftsman can afford a professional device – even a homemade one. The frame of the device may well turn out to be wooden - for a beginner who is just mastering a business and just entered the local market just yesterday, a “plywood” machine will allow you to drill holes and gaps with no worse accuracy than in similar factory blanks. It is not recommended to use chipboard or MDF for the machine - it is better to use plywood or laminated veneer lumber. In addition to this, you will need:

furniture corners and profiles;
edged (simple) board;
plastic legs;
fixing tie;
a strip of steel or aluminum (the latter must be thick-walled).

A step-by-step guide to making this device is as follows.

Remove the internal movable strips from two furniture sections of the profile. Fix them on plywood blanks. They, in turn, attach them to parts with a large width.
Fix the second two sections of the profile on a plywood sheet (section). They will be located between the side profiles. Don't forget to remove the inner strips.
Assemble a mount for a drill or high-speed screwdriver. First, saw off the steel plate and weld a tie to it. Install additional holders, which are pieces of steel with a round or square cross-section. The welding machine will no longer be needed.
Make a mobile platform. To do this, cut a piece of plywood sheet, checking the drawing. Attach to it the inner professional metal that you worked with before. Connect the resulting parts.
Attach a piece of plywood to the movable platform, on which a steel plate with a tie is fixed.
Make a base for the future unit from the same plywood - and install plastic legs.
Mount a stand made from a fragment of a board. Fix the newly assembled part of the machine on it.
Install the return spring. Secure the electric drill to the tie.

The device is ready for testing.

What items will be required

When selecting parts for a drilling machine from a steering rack, made with your own hands according to auxiliary drawings and photos, you should be especially careful. Only then will the finished device be of sufficient quality.

First of all, you should choose the right material for the bed. For which only metal can be used. A heavy plate may be used. You will need to drill holes in it for the vice. But there will be less hassle if you buy a mobile stand or remove this part from an already unnecessary desktop machine.

The basic stabilizing rail is made from a channel no thinner than three millimeters or a corner. The good thing about the channel is that it can withstand loads without vibrating. The holder also needs to be made of steel.

It is best to use a car steering rack. Its role is to move the mechanism attached to it. Thanks to the use of such slats, it is possible to control the operation of the machine down to millimeters.

As for the handles, it would be better to take them from ready-made machines, but you can make them yourself. And it’s easy to get ready-made factory cartridges and bushings, so there won’t be any problems with them.

Making a drill from a hand drill

One of the most common options for drill owners. This type of machine is usually made of metal or a wooden base. How to make a mini-drilling machine with your own hands? Note that you can also make a vise for a drilling machine yourself.

Necessary materials;

Drill;
Base material. A wooden slab with dimensions of 600*600*30 millimeters is suitable. A steel sheet of similar dimensions will also work;
Timber with parameters 50*50 square meters.

Instructions step by step

We make the bed;
We install a vertical stand;

Note!

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Attention: to make it easy to move the drill along our guide, you can easily use fasteners from a furniture store - a guide for drawers

We install a movable head for attaching a drill with a cross-section in the shape of the letter “t”;
We install the drill itself on the thickened resulting letter “t”.

A DIY drill press is a simple solution, but not very popular these days when everyone prefers to use a motor at the base.

How to assemble a drilling machine

All the details of the manufacturing process of a drilling machine based on a steering rack and drill can be studied in a YouTube video.

In addition, you can act according to the attached step-by-step manufacturing instructions:

Make a frame to which you need to weld the legs for greater reliability.
Make holes for the vice in the upper metal part of the base of the bed.
Weld the supporting stand to the base. It is advisable to strengthen it with stiffening ribs at the fixation point.
Secure the steering rack to the rack. And install a handle on it for rotation.
For the drill, you need to create a special fastener, by means of which it is attached to the rail at those points where there are mounting bolts. The fastening itself is simple in design and drawings or videos that can be found on the Internet will help you make it.
After connecting the drill to the rail, you need to check that its position is correct in relation to the work table.

When the assembly is completed, it is necessary to check the secure fixation of all structural parts. And also test the machine to determine the need for modifications.

The use of such an engine from household appliances will also require the creation of a special additional platform. The steering rack will be attached to it on the opposite side. In addition, it will be necessary to make an auxiliary frame. The machine spindle will be fixed to it.

It is also worth noting that this variation of the drilling machine has a drawback - a large number of open and unprotected parts that begin to rotate after starting the machine. To keep the installation parts safe and sound, it is recommended to use covers. They are also able to protect the master’s hands from injury during work.

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How to properly assemble equipment

You can get acquainted with the stages of assembling a homemade drilling machine based on a steering rack and a serial drill in a video that is easy to find on the Internet.

You can also act in accordance with the following simple instructions.

First, a frame is made, to which the legs are welded for reliable installation on the workbench.
In the metal sheet, which serves as the upper part of the base of the frame, holes are made for attaching clamping devices.
A load-bearing post is welded to the base of the frame, which is additionally reinforced with stiffeners at the attachment point.
The steering rack from the car is securely attached to the supporting rack; a handle for rotation is mounted on it and its stroke is adjusted.
A special mount is made for the drill, with which the tool is attached to the steering rack in the place where it has mounting bolts. A corresponding video or drawings of such a device will help you make this fastening, which is simple in design.
After the drill is connected to the steering rack, it is necessary to adjust its correct spatial position relative to the surface of the work table.
After assembly, the reliability of fastening of all structural elements is checked, and the machine itself is tested.

Making a machine

Homemade machine

The first step is to find the steering rack. It is best to use a part from a VAZ 2108, as it is characterized by simplicity of design and a long service life without repairs. Since a new rack will cost quite a lot (up to 3,500 rubles), most often they buy used ones.

Selection of rack and its modernization

After purchasing it, preventive maintenance should be performed. For good operation of the drilling machine, it is necessary to ensure smooth operation. Therefore, in addition to mandatory cleaning of debris, it is often necessary to replace some components:

Checking the condition of the gearbox. If necessary, replace faulty elements.
The support sleeve must not have surface damage - chips, cracks, etc. This is controlled before purchase.

A protective layer of paint is applied to the body. Attention - it should not get inside the column. This may cause it to break or require significant effort when moving the rod.

Manufacturing of the frame and installation

Drill lock

The machine body is made according to the dimensions of the column and drill. The optimal size of the work table is 30*20 cm. A platform is attached on top of it, on which the parts for drilling will be located.

Particular attention should be paid to the design for fixing the drill. It is installed on the steering rod in those places where there are mounting bolts. If you couldn’t find (make it yourself) a similar design, you can order it. To do this, it is recommended to draw up at least a simple drawing and give it to the master along with the finished column.

Jack machine

The stand can be made from a U-shaped metal profile 30*60*30. It is welded to a steel sheet whose thickness is at least 2 mm. To increase rigidity, additional ribs can be installed between these elements. The finished structure must be stable. It is best to make holes on the sheet for attaching to the desktop.

The height of the stand should be 5-7 cm greater than the length of the column. The stroke of the rod must be taken into account. For the VAZ-2108 model it is 210 mm.

For greater comfort when working with a drilling machine, you should consider a system for turning on (off) the drill. The circuit may consist of a socket and a switch. To do this, the design of the drill must include a mechanism for fixing the start button. Otherwise, you will have to fix the button all the time, which will be extremely inconvenient.

In addition to the steering column, a mechanical jack can be used as a mechanism for lowering the drill. But such a design has an uneven move, which affects the quality of work.

Assembly of a machine based on a separate electric motor

You can make your own drilling machine with a separate electric motor as a drive. This is somewhat more difficult and longer than using a drill. A separate drive motor will require the manufacture of an additional mounting platform on the back of the steering rack, as well as a frame on which the machine spindle, rotating in bearing supports, will be placed.

Belt Drive Assembly and Belt Tensioner

The main difficulty in implementing such a design scheme for a home-made machine is the transmission of rotation from the electric motor to the spindle assembly, which is located on the opposite side of the steering rack. The most popular and effective is a belt drive, which connects a pulley on the electric motor shaft to a pulley mounted on the spindle assembly. To equip such a machine, it is best to use a factory spindle, for which it is easy to select a clamping chuck and all other components.

Since the design of a homemade machine, which will be assembled according to this scheme, will contain many open rotating elements, for safety reasons, as well as to protect them from clogging, it is advisable to make a casing for them.

Design Features

Before you figure out how to make a drilling machine with your own hands, you need to consider the list of elements that will be involved in the assembly. The good thing about this device is that it can always be assembled from what you have in the garage. A homemade home machine consists of:

shock absorber;
power supply;
bushings;
head holder;
guide;
cartridges;
working head;
handles for transmitting torque;
beds;
vice;
a latch that makes the unit stationary.

The bed is the basis of the entire structure. In addition, it is capable of performing several additional useful functions. Such as:

use as a surface for working with a vice;
securing the base frame with the head;
balancing all the details.

Not only the working head, but also a shock absorber and a clamp (holder) are fixed on the frame. A spring mechanism can be used as a shock absorber. As an alternative, as in this case, the steering rack is used. It is a part of any domestically produced car. If you take a car rack, it will be much better than a spring mechanism. After all, it is capable of:

ensure stable operation of the lifting apparatus;
make the frame and head movements smoother.

Using a holder, the drilling machine motor is secured to the base frame. A clamping chuck is also selected for it.

The vice is characterized by versatility and reliability.

Drill device

Fantasy is an indispensable condition for any creative success, but in mechanical engineering it is useless without accurate calculations and comparison with solutions proven by experience. The history of machine tool construction goes back thousands of years - foot-operated bow lathes and drilling machines were used already at the end of the Stone Age. On the topic of this article, a proven sample is an industrial-style desktop vertical drilling machine. We will refer to it when choosing and deciding how best to make a drilling machine with our own hands: there are only a few examples of drilling machines in use that are over 100 years old, and they still maintain accuracy.

The structure of a desktop vertical drilling machine is shown in the figure:

Design of a desktop vertical drilling machine

Its main modules are a bed, a column, a console and a table for a part. The components of the main nodes are slightly highlighted in color, and their components are brighter in color. The simplest table (not counting a wooden block) is a vice. The rotary-sliding table allows, in addition to drilling, to perform some milling operations. The bed is usually tightly attached to a workbench or other reliable support.

Screw clamp – clamp of the mini-drilling machine console

In operation, the console is installed in the required position in accordance with the size and configuration of the workpiece using the lifting and rotating mechanism of the slider, and is fixed. The spindle is fed into the working stroke by a separate feed mechanism. In amateur and industrial designs for home use, the lifting and turning mechanism is most often the operator’s hand, and the lock is a screw clamp of the slide, see fig. on right; According to TB, both are acceptable. But what must certainly be in the design of a drilling machine according to the requirements of the same safety regulations is a bumper device or just a bumper: if you throw the feed handle, the spindle or carriage along with it should automatically bounce up until it stops. In home drills, the chipper is most often a spring installed in a suitable place, see below.

Is it possible to repair the steering rack yourself?

If the steering rack breaks down, it is recommended not to take risks and immediately go to a specialized service station. You can only carry out diagnostics on your own, while repairing the rack by an ordinary driver, in the absence of the proper knowledge, experience and tools, is unrealistic.

Preventive measures

With their help, you can significantly extend the life of the slats:

careful passage of bumps and speed bumps;
monitoring the condition of the steering rack components, especially its boots and seals;
warming up the oil in the rack in winter before driving smooth and short turns;
Do not hold the steering wheel for more than 5 seconds. in the extreme position, as this significantly increases the load on the gearbox and seals.

Such measures will significantly extend the life of the steering rack, as well as avoid costly repairs or replacement.

Types of drill guides

Conductor

The device is a plastic housing in which guide bushings for different drill diameters are rigidly fixed. By limiting deflection, drilling can be performed with acceptable accuracy on a variety of materials.

The conductor is held with one hand, and the other holds the drill. There is no need to constantly monitor the slip angle. In addition, the device allows you to accurately start drilling at a given point. No punching is required.

Almost all guides with an angle of 90° allow you to work on rounded surfaces (pipes). For this purpose, a special groove is provided on the lower support heel.

There are also simpler designs (if a clip of several diameters is inconvenient to use). For example, a mandrel into which bushings of various sizes can be inserted.

In addition to standard guides with an “attack” angle of 90°, there are specialized jigs in which the bushings are located at a different angle.

low accuracy (there is a slight play in the guide sleeve);
wear effect on the drill.

Guides with sliding carriage (household version)

They represent a support frame on which vertical posts are fixed. The carriage moves freely (but without distortions) along the guides, in which the drill body is secured. The simplest designs cannot change the angle of the racks.

As a rule, fixtures are equipped with a 45° cutout for fixing cylindrical workpieces (for example, pipes). The support is equipped with a handle for holding and has a non-slip coating. With its help, you can start drilling with high precision and under visual control and maintain a given angle.

Application can be limited only by the area of the workpiece: if it is smaller than the size of the support area, use is impossible.

Due to the fact that the support is fixed by the hands of the master, the placement of the guide can be anything: even on the ceiling.

affordable price;
high positioning accuracy.

Works only with certain drill diameters, and with the only possible shank.

Semi-professional drill guides

Semi-professional guides can be equipped with various fastening devices for the frame, drilling depth regulators, the angle can be set both along and across the plane of the tool’s swing. Due to this, the equipment turns out to be more bulky.

Professional drill guides

As a rule, guide posts for professional use are equipped with their own drill chuck. Why is this being done?

Even the most accurate drill clamp has a serious error. In addition, the drill gradually wears out, the bearings on the shaft give a slight play. All this affects the drilling accuracy.

The stock guide chuck mount is less susceptible to wear because it is used less frequently

Plus, it doesn't matter to you which drill is connected to the chuck. It's just a source of rotation

high accuracy;
thoughtful fastening on the workpiece;
ability to perform work with high intensity and load.

high price;
narrow specialization.

Before you go to the store for a guide, decide what tasks you face. You should not buy expensive and bulky equipment unnecessarily. For most household tasks, the following device is suitable:

Rack

for drills, screwdrivers and hammer drills, it is a stationary device to which drilling tools are attached. Most of the holders produced have a limit on the size of the drill neck, and does not even exceed 43-45 mm. With the use of similar devices, you will have completely clear and even drilling of wooden materials, metal, plastic products, etc. The holders also absorb vibration, making work more simple and comfortable. Of course, make a stand for the drill yourself.

How to choose components

To ensure that the drilling machine you assemble with your own hands does not cause any problems during operation and suits you with its technical capabilities, you need to select the appropriate components for its assembly.

Since the bed is a load-bearing element of the equipment, special attention should be paid to the choice of materials for its manufacture. The simplest option is to make the bed yourself. For this purpose, you can use a metal plate of sufficient thickness so that it is able to provide stability to the entire apparatus.

You can use a metal corner or channel as a stand to which the lifting mechanism of your homemade machine will be attached. The dimensions of such an element should be selected in such a way that it can withstand all the loads that will arise during processing. The selected stand is welded to the surface of the frame, and the resulting connection is further reinforced with stiffeners.

The legs can be welded to the bottom surface of the sheet, which will act as a bed, and the possibility of attaching them to the workbench can be provided. It is also necessary to make holes in such a sheet, with the help of which a vice or clamping strips will be fixed on it.

The type of design of the main frame and holder, as well as the material for their manufacture, is chosen depending on which electric motor or ready-made drive mechanism you will use to equip your drilling machine. When making such a choice, it is important to consider that these equipment components will experience serious loads during the processing of the part.

The convenience of using a steering rack from a car to make a homemade drilling machine lies not only in the compactness of such a device, but also in its technical capabilities. The rotational movement of the handle in this mechanism is converted into a very precise translational movement of its rod, which is able to raise and lower the working head of the drilling machine, while withstanding all the loads placed on it. It is convenient that the operation of many models of steering racks can be adjusted. This allows you to optimally select their characteristics for your drilling equipment.

It is best to select the control handles for the drilling machine mechanisms from serial equipment, but it is also not difficult to make them yourself. Naturally, the clamping chucks for fixing the tool, as well as all bushings and adapters, must also be factory-made.

How to make one from a screwdriver?

The machine for drilling workpieces from a screwdriver is suitable for “homemade workers” who have neither a drill nor a washing machine that have served their purpose. A screwdriver is a ready-made functional device, and any simple one that can be used to drill at the second (increased) speed will do. Most screwdrivers already support speed switching mode - they already include a gearbox with nylon gears. There is no need to expect greater productivity from them - but trying to work with technological breaks so that the rubbing and sliding parts of the mechanism have time to cool down is a way out of this situation.

Make the base. A pipe is also used here - but with a square or rectangular profile. The base is not a solid layer of steel, but a lattice. To do this, weld a rectangle from a corrugated pipe, weld a piece of it from the inside at a short distance. Weld the stand to the base.
Assemble the carriage. A screwdriver will be attached to it. To do this, refer to the drawing and cut out sections from the corrugated pipe. Additionally, you will need a fastening tie - it will secure the screwdriver.
From sections of professional pipe, weld two components in the shape of the letter G. Weld a screed at the end.
From the next sections of the profile pipe, assemble a carriage, putting ball bearing kits on the axle. Paint the parts to be assembled. Also prepare bolts with nuts and washers, and self-tapping screws.
Using two pieces of corrugated pipe, studs and several nuts, assemble a limiting module for carriage movement. Place it at the bottom of the rack, noting in advance the desired level to which it will rise - and where it will lock. Screw the carriage assembly onto the stand.
For a rebound effect after drilling is completed, use a shock absorber. In the simplest case, it will be replaced by a spring.
Sand and paint your piece. Rust primer may be required.
Install and secure the screwdriver in the screed.

The device is ready for testing. The advantage of the assembled device is the small space it takes up. It's easy to work with. But for setting up the process on a wide flow, the drilling machine obtained in this way is not suitable - if the screwdriver was purchased in a universal chain hypermarket (and not in a construction department store) and cost several times less, then it is prohibited to overload it.

Work in this mode: drill for 10–15 minutes and take an almost hour-long break. Excessively cheap devices are not designed for intense and frequent loads.

Make or buy?

Occasional drilling/milling for yourself with the accuracy of what you get - cast plastic bed or stamped steel. The feed mechanism is lever with a cranked lever (see below). Carriage sliding bearings (see below) are steel on steel or with nylon liners. Prices are $20-$30.
Regular drilling for yourself or to order with ordinary machine-building precision. The materials processed are up to the hardness and toughness of ordinary structural steel. Everything is the same, but the sliding bearings are steel on steel (worse) or with bronze bushings, and the frame is cast iron or (more expensive) composite, also vibration-absorbing. Prices: $30-$40.
Regular drilling and milling of any materials that can be tooled with periodic overloads of the tool and/or with increased accuracy - plain bearings are only bronze on steel, cast iron frame. The feed mechanism is rack and pinion (see below); vibration-absorbing console. Prices: $60-$180.

Choosing a bed

How to choose a bed (stand) for a drill

Which is cheaper?

Bench Drill Press Spindle Drawings

Making a homemade drilling machine from a steering rack

General information

Make or buy?

Choosing a bed

Which is cheaper?

Design features of the machine

Selection of necessary elements

Selection of working mechanism

Main stages of work

Site headings

Manual sewing machine from unnecessary trash

legal information

Selecting suitable elements

Selection of working mechanism

Stages of assembling a homemade machine from a steering wheel

Differences when assembling a machine with an asynchronous engine

How to make a drilling machine from a steering rack? (video)

Manufacturing from plywood

What items will be required

Making a drill from a hand drill

How to assemble a drilling machine

How to properly assemble equipment

Making a machine

Selection of rack and its modernization

Manufacturing of the frame and installation

Assembly of a machine based on a separate electric motor

Design Features

Drill device

Is it possible to repair the steering rack yourself?

Types of drill guides

Conductor

Guides with sliding carriage (household version)

Semi-professional drill guides

Professional drill guides

How to choose components

How to make one from a screwdriver?

Make or buy?

Choosing a bed

Which is cheaper?