Manual edge bender for do-it-yourself auto repair. Drawings and videos

Types of sheet benders

For various works with metal sheets, different types of sheet bending machines are used:

with a rotating beam;
roller;
roller;
mechanical and hydraulic presses.

They differ in their technical capabilities and scope of application. All varieties can be made both in mobile or manual, and in stationary versions.

Pipe benders with a rotating beam are the most common and convenient for DIY production. They can work with large sheets, bending both edges a few centimeters high and a wall of 30–70 cm at an angle of up to 120 0. It is also easy to bend to create a seam connection.
A manual roller bender is used for bending edges and low walls during body repairs, roofing work, installing window sills and joining large sheets of tin. By choosing a roller profile, you can make a rather complex profiled bend, forming, for example, a fender or a fragment of a car bumper or a decorative element for finishing a fence or balcony railing.
A roller pipe bender is used for bending semicircular gutters or full-section pipes. It can be adjusted in radius by moving the rolls: the support rolls horizontally, and the pressure rollers vertically. Such a homemade roller bender can be easily equipped with an electric drive with a chain or gear drive.
Presses will be needed for bending both thin, up to 1 mm, and thick, up to 2–3 mm metal. They are capable of not only bending metal at an angle of up to 90 0, but also perforating it or gluing it under pressure. To change the type of operation, you only need to change the punch and die.

How they work is shown in the figure:

All types of machines are not complicated; it is only important to decide on the upcoming tasks and choose an installation model that will help solve maximum metalworking problems. For example, when making boxes or roofing work, a roller machine will be of little help, but when installing drainage systems, it will become indispensable, while a rotary machine can only partially help

Homemade hole punch

You can make a hole punch yourself, especially if you understand the principle of its operation and know how to connect the necessary parts together. Each craftsman comes up with his own design, but their basis is approximately the same:

There must be a motor or several that puts the structure into action and runs from some kind of power source. Some people order motors separately, new and simple ones. Others take them from already unused household appliances, such as a sewing machine.
You need needles to make holes. The main requirement for them is strength. And if you notice that even the needles of a hole punch purchased in a store quickly begin to bend, then you can safely replace them with self-tapping screws. The holes are made even better, it is easier to thread wire through them, and they will last much longer.
For the base, you can take any boards or scraps from furniture, beehives and other wooden scraps that you have.
Some attach a handle and fastenings for the planks to the structure, as on purchased models, while others do without them, simply holding the plank with their hands.

This is interesting Frameless beekeeping for beginners

The advantage of a homemade hole punch is that you can make the desired number of holes in the slats, place them at the distance you like, and the ability to experiment.

Let us describe a short instruction for one of the do-it-yourself hole punch options:

You will need a motor, a movable table or furniture scraps for the base, diodes from old equipment, a limit switch, a toggle switch, furniture ball guides, screws, drills and screws for fastening.
Make a base out of boards, attach screws to the motors and fasten them at the required distance from each other.
Connect all the elements together according to the diagram.

You can make such a device in one evening and you have your own hole punch, which will save a lot of time.

Video: hole punch for frames - save time and labor costs.

Stages of work

As already mentioned, you can make printed concrete yourself. However, it is best to take on this work with some experience in handling concrete. Problems that inexperienced stamped concrete layers may encounter:

The material hardens quickly, making it impossible to get a clear print.
Difficulties in correcting typing errors.
The need to be able to handle an angle grinder, trowel, magnesium lathe and other construction tools.

In general, the technology for producing architectural concrete consists of the following main stages:

Surface preparation. The base for pouring concrete for stamping is a standard planned area of the required dimensions. The boundaries of the site are marked with pegs and a cord. Next, along the line of the cord, the soil is removed to a depth of 20 cm. The resulting surface is compacted, a crushed stone cushion 10-12 cm thick is poured, formwork is installed from boards, and a reinforcing mesh is laid, placing pebbles 3-4 high under the mesh cm.
Preparation (purchase) and pouring of heavy concrete grade M 350 or higher.
Leveling the surface as a rule.
Compacting concrete with a vibrating screed.
Smoothing the surface with a trowel until the surface is smooth, uniform and horizontal.
Application of the “MONOPRESS” hardener. This is a colored hardener, which is a fine powder of various colors. Work on its application begins after the initial hardening of the surface. The powder is spread manually in a format “from the center to the edges of the concrete.”
Allow the initial layer of hardener to penetrate into the concrete for 10 minutes. Smooth the surface with a magnesium trowel and apply a second layer of color hardener.
The edges of the corners are formed using a manual edge bender.
The next stage is the application of a special separating component from Increte Systems to the concrete surface, which ensures that the loaf does not stick to the molds. The separating component is applied using a paintbrush. The brush is immersed in the container with the component, and the release powder is sprayed horizontally using double hands over the surface of the base for stamping.
Stamping. One of the most critical stages. Before stamping, it is necessary to check that the surface has the required degree of ductility. To do this, you need to press your finger in different parts of the site. If, after pressing, an imprint with a depth of 5-6 mm remains, you can begin stamping. The available rubber stamps are laid out on the surface according to the accepted pattern, and pressed into the concrete with a tamper. After this, the prints are left to harden for 1 day.
Elimination of stamping defects using rustication.
Cutting temperature-shrinkable joints using a grinder and a disc for concrete.
Washing concrete from the separating component with running water.
Washing concrete with hydrochloric acid solution.
Spraying Clear Seal with a paint roller and paint brush. The sealant serves as protection for stamped concrete from abrasion, and also gives its surface rich color and a pleasant shine.
Drying. After the sealant has dried, stamped concrete is ready for use.

Drawing up technical specifications

Thanks to the capabilities of the Internet, you can quickly find the required set of drawings, and on the YouTube channel you can even watch advertising and informational videos about the device and operating principle of the required unit. However, all these materials are strictly individual, and therefore were intended by their authors for specific sheet-bending operations. Therefore, before building a sheet bending machine with your own hands, you need to make the right choice of its future technical characteristics. The main ones should be the following:

maximum width of bent metal, mm;
maximum thickness of the workpiece, mm;
desired range of bending angles;
overall dimensions of the mechanism (length, width, height);
required bending accuracy.

The direct choice of the limit values of the listed parameters depends on the conditions of use of the machine that will bend sheet metal products. In particular, when constructing a roof, you will most likely have to deal with galvanized sheet or steel with a thickness of no more than 1 mm. When processing copper, an even thinner sheet or strip is often used, and when making fences and railings with your own hands, on the contrary, the thickness of the metal can be 2 - 3 mm.

When choosing the optimal width of a workpiece - sheet or strip - you should proceed from the fact that the width of the part will rarely exceed 1000 mm (in extreme cases, adjacent workpieces can then be joined into a fold using the same machine).

Drawing of a homemade sheet bending machine

The most difficult point in the technical specifications is considered to be the choice of the optimal range of metal bending angles. If everything is clear with the upper limit - 180°, then the lower value should be chosen very wisely. A natural consequence of bending most sheet metals in a cold state is springback - a spontaneous decrease in the actual bending angle due to the elastic properties of the deformed metal. Springing depends on:

Plasticity of the material: for example, for low-carbon steel the maximum spring angle is 5 - 7°, and for high-carbon steel - up to 10 - 12°. Alloy steels and alloys are even more springy. In particular, for aluminum alloy AMg6, the maximum springback can be 12 - 15°;
Thickness of the bent part: with decreasing metal thickness, springing decreases;
Bending angle: as this angle decreases, the springback of almost all metals increases. In particular, at relatively small bending angles (up to 15 - 20°), it is generally impossible to bend a workpiece made of most types of sheet metals and alloys to a given amount in the usual way: it is necessary to use units with simultaneous longitudinal stretching of the sheet. It is impossible to make such machines with your own hands: you will need to install and debug a special hydraulic drive. Therefore, in such cases, it is easier to bend the part with the usual blows of a mallet on, for example, a wooden matrix.

Printed concrete - how to make it yourself?

Printed concrete (stamped concrete) is a relatively new construction technology for Russia that allows you to turn a “dull gray” concrete surface into a real work of art.

That is why stamped concrete is often called “architectural concrete”. Using this technology, you can visually accurately imitate the surface of areas made of “noble” components: granite paving stones, slate, marble, brick, weathered stone, shell rock and other materials. .

Areas of application

An edge bending machine or a simple hand tool designed for bending edges is widely used in many areas. The edge bender makes it possible, in particular, to produce air duct elements from thin sheet metal and to prepare the edges of workpieces for joining them by welding. Auto repair (body work) is another area of application for such tools and equipment.

Edge bending is also actively used in construction and when performing home repair work. Using such a tool, seam joints of thin-sheet metal elements are formed and even products of various configurations are manufactured.

Bending the end of a drainpipe on an electromechanical edge bending machine

If we talk about the principle by which the edge bender operates, it is quite simple. To bend the edge of a thin-sheet product, the edge bender scale is set to the required processing width, then the edge of the workpiece is placed between the working rollers of the device and, moving the device, the bend is performed.

Printed concrete manufacturing technology

The technology of stamped concrete is not prohibitively complex, and can be implemented on your own using relatively inexpensive universal construction tools

The essence of the process of making architectural concrete is to give the surface of the prepared concrete site texture and color: granite paving stones, boardwalk, brickwork, animal skins, whatever. For this purpose, special rubber stamps, special coloring and strengthening materials, as well as special tools and equipment are used.

To implement the technology of printed concrete on your own, you will need to have, purchase or rent special tools and equipment. In particular, you will need the following tools for stamped concrete:

Concrete mixer, galvanized buckets, shovels and bayonet shovels for making the base - heavy concrete. Note If ready-made concrete material is purchased from the nearest bacon factory, there is no need for this equipment.
Special rubber stamps in the amount of 6-7 pieces and a tamper for “compressing” the concrete surface with stamps.
Angle grinder with a cutting tool “for concrete”, for opening expansion joints and correcting stamping defects.
Scraper for leveling the surface of concrete.
Magnesium floating strip for rubbing in color strengthening agent.
Magnesium polisher for leveling concrete.
Manual edge bender for forming corners.
Steel trowel.
Vibrating screed.
Rustication to eliminate defects in joints.
Texture roller for processing stamp joints.
Paint brushes, paint roller, plastic buckets.

In addition, you will need 100x20 (25) mm edged boards for formwork, M350 concrete and a number of special finishing materials which will be discussed below. As you can see, the technology of blasted concrete will require certain costs for the purchase of special tools.

However, considering that the price for 1 m2 of printed concrete starts from 1,500 rubles and above, it makes sense to spend money. Moreover, some of the above tools will definitely be needed later for other construction work on a private or country estate.

How the machine works

The main parts of a metal bending machine are:

base;
Desktop;
clamp;
crimping punch;
handles - levers.

In more “advanced” models of do-it-yourself edge benders, you can also see a cutting roller knife. It’s also easy to do, but we’ll consider it additional equipment.

The base of the machine can be a welded metal table made from a corner or a profile pipe. When installing equipment permanently, you can also use a durable wooden table with massive legs. When bending sheet metal up to 0.8 mm thick (namely, these are the thicknesses that a homemade edge bender is designed for), no special effort is required, so forces of limited magnitude act on the base (frame). The strength of the base is required only for bending accuracy so that distortions do not occur.

The table dimensions are at least 1.5 m in length and up to 1 m in width. Even if you don't plan to work with large sheets of metal, it never hurts to have some extra. Sometimes non-standard situations arise for which every master should be prepared.

A work table is fixed to the front edge of the base - a section of channel No. 6.5 or No. 8. It must be positioned strictly horizontally and securely fastened to the base. If it is metal, then it is best to weld it. It can be attached to wood with bolts with a diameter of 10 mm.

A pressure bar is installed on the top of the work table, which also serves as a supporting surface. You can do it in several ways. It is best to use a corner 5X5 cm or larger, installed edge up. In this case, the front edge facing the crimping punch will be inclined at an angle of 135 0. This will allow you to easily bend the metal sheet at an angle of 90 degrees or more.

Holes for bolt fastenings are drilled on both sides of the clamp. You can weld studs to the base and press the rail with the wings, or you can install more complex clamps with return springs, which, after releasing the wings or rotating the handles, automatically raise the clamp. You can see how this system works in the video.

The front working punch is made of a square pipe or thick-walled angle with the same size as the clamping device. It should rotate around a horizontal axis coinciding with the top front edge of the punch. To do this, loops are welded at its ends

It is important to accurately level the clamp so that distortions do not occur during bending. The clamp should fit as tightly as possible to the edge of the desktop, with a minimum gap

The smaller the gap, the more accurate the fold line will be.

How the machine works

The main parts of a metal bending machine are:

base;
Desktop;
clamp;
crimping punch;
handles - levers.

Clamp

A pressure bar is installed on the top of the work table, which also serves as a supporting surface. You can do it in several ways.

It is best to use a corner 5X5 cm or larger, installed edge up. In this case, the front edge facing the crimping punch will be inclined at an angle of 135. This will allow you to easily bend the metal sheet at an angle of 90 degrees or more.

Punch

It is important to accurately level the clamp so that distortions do not occur during bending. The clamp should fit as tightly as possible to the edge of the desktop, with a minimum gap. The smaller the gap, the more accurate the fold line will be

The smaller the gap, the more accurate the fold line will be.

When not in use, the top edge of the punch is flush with the table surface. There shouldn't even be a millimeter difference. If there is a deviation in level, then a machine made by yourself will also work, but the bending radius will increase and instead of a straight line you will get a rounding.

Device of manual edge benders

Edge benders, although somewhat similar in appearance to sheet benders, have a fundamental difference - the height of the shelf usually does not exceed 5...20% of their length. A lower value corresponds to flanging the inner edge. When bending there is no such limitation, which predetermines noticeable design changes in the compared devices.

The first of them concerns the length of the flanging working area - for manual edge benders it can be small, since the height of the bead and the radius of curvature do not change. Accordingly, portable manual edge benders are produced, moving which along a pre-marked flanging line, we obtain the required profile.

If the edge formation zone is large, the process should be performed simultaneously. In such cases, an edge bender is more similar to a sheet bender, differing, in fact, only in the way the workpiece is pressed.

Let's consider the first version of the device. Portable manual edge bender for gradual bead shaping includes:

Two handles, and one of them or both can be movable.
Lever reinforcement system to create the required flanging force.
Working jaws with a profile that matches the dimensions of the edge. Typically, the manufacturer equips a manual edge bender with a set of several jaws and the most commonly found in practice edge height and radius of curvature during the transition from the edge to the main plane.
Adjustable travel stop: most often this is a removable slotted screw equipped with a thrust thread.

For ease of use, the handles are rubberized, which prevents the operator’s hand from slipping while applying force.

The second version of a portable manual edge bender is a roller bender, where the sliding friction of the jaws on the workpiece is replaced by rolling friction when the working rollers rotate. In this case, the shaping force is significantly reduced, but the tool turns out to be less universal, since there is only one pair of rollers, and it is not possible to change the edge formation parameters except by replacing a pair of rollers, which is quite labor-intensive. In addition, roller edge benders in most cases fail to perform internal flanging along small radii.

The main disadvantage of manual portable edge benders is their low accuracy: when moving the tool along the uneven line of the future edge, an error gradually accumulates, which at the end of the operation can reach a millimeter or more. This is unacceptable during auto body repair, so the quality of bead formation is determined only by the experience of the performer.

We make a manual edge bender with our own hands. Drawings and videos

Beading edges in sheet parts of a car during its repair is not an energy-intensive operation, so even with significant volumes of work, it is advisable to acquire a manual edge bender rather than a powered one.

The technological advantage of this process is that the workpiece can be left under pressure as long as required to overcome the elastic inertia of the material.

Manual edge benders usually form the edges of sheet metal with a thickness of up to 0.8...1.0 mm, with a side height of up to 20 mm.

Device of manual edge benders

Let's consider the first version of the device. Portable manual edge bender for gradual bead shaping includes:

Two handles, and one of them or both can be movable.
Lever reinforcement system to create the required flanging force.
Working jaws with a profile that matches the dimensions of the edge. Typically, the manufacturer equips a manual edge bender with a set of several jaws and the most commonly found in practice edge height and radius of curvature during the transition from the edge to the main plane.
Adjustable travel stop: most often this is a removable slotted screw equipped with a thrust thread.

For ease of use, the handles are rubberized, which prevents the operator’s hand from slipping while applying force.

The second version of a portable manual edge bender is a roller bender, where the sliding friction of the jaws on the workpiece is replaced by rolling friction when the working rollers rotate.

In this case, the shaping force is significantly reduced, but the tool turns out to be less universal, since there is only one pair of rollers, and it is not possible to change the edge formation parameters except by replacing a pair of rollers, which is quite labor-intensive.

In addition, roller edge benders in most cases fail to perform internal flanging along small radii.

Do-it-yourself manual edge bender

Let us dwell on the option of designing and manufacturing a manual edge bender with simultaneous production of an internal or external contour along the entire length of a pre-marked workpiece.

The general view of the device is shown in the figure.

Such a manual edge bender can be used not only in car repair shops, but also in roofing work, the manufacture of tin ventilation ducts and other spatial products made of sheet metal.

The dimensions of a homemade manual edge bender are determined depending on the largest dimensions of the workpiece for which flanging is performed. For example, for large products, it is more expedient to build a table from wood or multi-layer plywood, on which to mount the edge bender; in other cases, the structure is welded from channels and sheet metal.

The design of the manual edge bender is designed for sequential execution of two transitions:

clamping the workpiece using a clamp and lower clamp;
flanging along a given contour by turning the handle with the punch located on it.

It is usually recommended to make a welded version of such an assembly, but this is impractical: the parameters of the flanging curve may change, and it is no longer possible to change the punch. Therefore, taking into account the small forces arising during deformation, it is better to produce a collapsible punch, which is a collection of individual modules, characterized by their radius of curvature and edge height.

The fastening of such punches to the beam is carried out using bolts (of course, all seats must be designed and made with the highest possible accuracy).

The edge formation itself is performed after the workpiece is securely fixed between the upper and lower clamps (the latter ensures smooth clamping due to the spring mounted on the rod in the upper plane). The combination of the two halves of the flanging die is carried out by moving the support bracket along the mating surface of the stops, which act as guide elements of the manual edge bender.

By changing the configuration of the punch modules, you can perform flanging not only at a straight line, but also at any other angle - up to 110...120º (to do this, you just need to provide a small bevel on the limiter, which is visible in the figure).

How to choose

The WUKO tool line includes several models of various manual sheet benders, suitable for different requirements. The principle of their operation is the same: the roller mechanism bends the edge when the tool is pulled along the sheet manually. The company's engineers in the design of the sheet bender have originally implemented the process of flanging a metal sheet: roller guides simultaneously serve as a tool handle and a metric scale, allowing you to set the required distance for bending. The video demonstrates how the tool works.

Wuko Mini Bender. The simplest model of a manual sheet bender, the Wuko Mini Bender, has one pair of rollers. Model 2022 allows you to bend from 5 to 20 mm. There are options with the possibility of obtaining a higher side: 2030 and 2050.

WUKO DUO BENDER. For higher productivity, models with two pairs of rollers are available. They also differ in the amount of bend - from 200 mm (model 3200) to 350 (model 3350). There is also a version of WUKO DUO Bender 3350 PLUS, equipped with an additional removable handle and a support bar. Models with two rows of rollers are designed to work on straight sections.

WUKO Uni Bender. To work on curved sections, especially when constructing dome structures, it is advisable to use special manual roller benders. They have an additional support roller, which simplifies the movement of the tool along the radius.
DISC-O-BENDER. This tool is designed for forming a recumbent seam when making horizontal seams, joining valleys, and other works.

The range of manual roller bending tools is designed for professional roofers and tinsmiths performing various tasks in the installation of seam roofing and other sheet metal products. Manual sheet benders are used as additional convenient tools for sheet bending and seam-forming machines, but if necessary, you can use a manual roller sheet bender to produce a small volume of paintings when installing the roof yourself. If you decide to use a manual roller bender to create paintings for the roof, do not forget that the formation of each bend occurs in several steps: the tool beads the edge gradually, in several passes, so the production of the entire required volume of paintings, even for a relatively small roof of a country house, will take quite a long time time.

Self-production

The design of the hand bender is simple and elegant. On the Internet you can find drawings that allow you, if you have access to lathes and milling machines and the ability to use them, to reproduce the tool yourself. However, it must be taken into account that the factory-made tool has a special coating of the rollers - the most loaded part.

A variety of products made from tin and sheet metal, obtained by bending, are popular and in demand both in professional construction and mechanical engineering, as well as for minor household repairs and household needs. A fully functional do-it-yourself sheet bender for sheets up to 1.2 mm thick from ferrous, galvanized or non-ferrous metal can be made in a home workshop or a small metalworking shop.

Stamps for decorative concrete

Stamping is the name given to the technology by which concrete products are given a relief surface, with the ability to imitate various other building materials. In order to make stamps for decorative concrete with your own hands, plastic is most often used.

However, other materials can be used to make molds. In this case, a very important condition is that the material from which the stamps for concrete will be made should be alkali-resistant and have increased impact strength.

To make stamped forms with your own hands, you will need some tools and materials, namely:

Wood hacksaw;
Hammer and nails;
Screwdriver with wood screws;

From all of the above materials, forms for concrete are made, and to give the concrete a relief surface, you can use the same wood, foam plastic or polyurethane. It is with the help of these materials that special stencils are created to imitate various decorative surfaces on concrete.

This option for making stamps for decorative concrete is suitable if you need to create a single element, a concrete figure, or something else. If you need to pour a concrete path in the garden, thereby making stamped concrete with your own hands, then you should act differently.

Where to start making a sheet bending machine

To make a machine for bending sheet metal, you will need a drawing of such a device or its detailed photos. In addition, a number of important factors should be taken into account, such as the force that will need to be applied to use the sheet bending machine, its weight and dimensions (on which mobility depends), cost and availability of components. As a result, we obtain the following initial parameters.

The maximum width of the sheet that will need to be bent is 1 m.
Maximum thickness of sheet material: galvanized – 0.6 mm, aluminum – 0.7 mm, copper – 1 mm.
The number of operating cycles that will be carried out without readjustment or repair is 1200.
The maximum bend angle of a metal profile, obtained without manual finishing, is 120 degrees.
It is highly undesirable to use workpieces made of special steels (for example, stainless steel).
In the design of a sheet bending machine, welded joints that do not withstand alternating loads should be avoided.
You should limit as much as possible the number of sheet bending machine parts that you will need to order externally, using turners or millers.

It is very difficult to find a drawing of a device that would satisfy all these requirements, but the most successful one can be modified.

Printed concrete manufacturing technology

The technology of stamped concrete is not prohibitively complex, and can be implemented on your own using relatively inexpensive universal construction tools

Concrete mixer, galvanized buckets, shovels and bayonet shovels for making the base - heavy concrete. Note If ready-made concrete material is purchased from the nearest bacon factory, there is no need for this equipment.
Special rubber stamps in the amount of 6-7 pieces and a tamper for “compressing” the concrete surface with stamps.
Angle grinder with a cutting tool “for concrete”, for opening expansion joints and correcting stamping defects.
Scraper for leveling the surface of concrete.
Magnesium floating strip for rubbing in color strengthening agent.
Magnesium polisher for leveling concrete.
Manual edge bender for forming corners.
Steel trowel.
Vibrating screed.
Rustication to eliminate defects in joints.
Texture roller for processing stamp joints.
Paint brushes, paint roller, plastic buckets.

Preparation of materials and tools

To make a sheet metal bending machine, you cannot do without the following tools and consumables:

electric drill and a set of drills of various diameters;
grinder, as well as cutting and grinding discs for it;
welding machine and set of electrodes;
workbench vice, set of clamps;
a set of hand tools (hammer, sledgehammer, pliers, punch, chisel file).

To connect the tool, if there is no outlet located in the yard near the work site, you will need a reel-to-reel extension cord of the required length.

As consumables you need:

corner profile made of thick-walled steel;
bolts, nuts and washers (you can use screw washers);
channel (U-shaped profile with partially sharpened edges);
rule (if it is this that is used as the trigger element);
reinforcing rod (reinforcement with a smooth surface is acceptable);
a set of ball bearings (if the mechanism provides for their use).

Printed concrete - how to make it yourself?

Printed concrete (stamped concrete) is a relatively new construction technology for Russia that allows you to turn a “dull gray” concrete surface into a real work of art.

Manual edge bender for do-it-yourself auto repair - Metals, equipment, instructions

Such a simple tool as an edge bender can be useful in many situations involving the need to process sheet metal products. There are many models of such a device on the modern market, but if you wish, you can make it yourself.

Edge benders can be used to form quite complex profile elements

Areas of application

An edge bending machine or a simple hand tool designed for bending edges is widely used in many areas.

The edge bender makes it possible, in particular, to produce air duct elements from thin sheet metal and to prepare the edges of workpieces for joining them by welding.

Auto repair (body work) is another area of application for such tools and equipment.

Bending the end of a drainpipe on an electromechanical edge bending machine

Main varieties

The simplest design of the edge bending devices on the market are manual roller type devices.

All manipulations with such edge benders are carried out using the handle with which they are equipped, and the main work of deforming the edge of the metal workpiece is performed by the rollers.

The width of the bend performed using such a device is regulated by means of a special limiter installed on the guides of the device.

Compact manual edge benders can be used directly on site

High mobility of the edge bender, which can be used even on high-rise objects, is ensured not only by its compact dimensions, but also by its low weight, about 2 kg.

Using a hand-held edge bending tool, you can bend the edge of a metal workpiece at an angle of up to 90°, while the thickness of the metal from which it is made cannot exceed 0.8 mm.

Using an edge bender, you can make bends of any length, and their width can be in the range of 0.5–20 cm. As can be seen from the technical characteristics of such a device, its capabilities are quite limited, so it is advisable to use it only for solving simple technological problems.

An edge bending machine equipped with a hydraulic drive is more productive and functional. The operator working on such equipment does not need to exert significant physical effort in order to bend the edge of a metal workpiece.

Due to the high power that this device is distinguished by, it can be used for processing sheet metal workpieces even of considerable thickness.

Edge bending machine ZSH-4.0 with hydraulic roller clamping

Depending on the dimensions, a hydraulic edge bending machine can be stationary or mobile. It is the hydraulic drive that is most often equipped with such equipment, which also has another name - “edge bending press”.

The edge bending machine can also be equipped with an electromechanical drive. Using this equipment, you can make folds of various types and even perform upsetting of the folded seam, if the equipment of the machine allows this to be done.

Making an edge or trimming it on a roller machine uses replaceable rollers, on which the shape of the bend depends

Edge benders equipped with a pneumatic drive are very popular. The working parts of such a machine, operating on the “rotary beam” principle, through the use of a pneumatic drive, make it possible to exert significant pressure on the workpiece being processed, the value of which can reach up to 6.2 bar.

When deciding to use serial equipment in this category or make a pneumatic machine with your own hands, you must keep in mind that for such a device to fully operate, it is necessary to provide an air flow of 113 l/min.

Option one. Long straight edge bending machine

In order to make such a device, you will need its drawings, which are easy to find on the Internet, as well as the following equipment and consumables:

metal channels from which the base and clamps of the edge bender are made;
thick-walled corner for making a crimping punch;
metal sheet from which the edge bender brushes will be made;
a metal bracket used as a handle for a device.

Stages of work

The material hardens quickly, making it impossible to get a clear print.
Difficulties in correcting typing errors.
The need to be able to handle an angle grinder, trowel, magnesium lathe and other construction tools.

In general, the technology for producing architectural concrete consists of the following main stages:

Surface preparation. The base for pouring concrete for stamping is a standard planned area of the required dimensions. The boundaries of the site are marked with pegs and a cord. Next, along the line of the cord, the soil is removed to a depth of 20 cm. The resulting surface is compacted, a crushed stone cushion 10-12 cm thick is poured, formwork is installed from boards, and a reinforcing mesh is laid, placing pebbles 3-4 high under the mesh cm.
Preparation (purchase) and pouring of heavy concrete grade M 350 or higher.
Leveling the surface as a rule.
Compacting concrete with a vibrating screed.
Smoothing the surface with a trowel until the surface is smooth, uniform and horizontal.
Application of the “MONOPRESS” hardener. This is a colored hardener, which is a fine powder of various colors. Work on its application begins after the initial hardening of the surface. The powder is spread manually in a format “from the center to the edges of the concrete.”
Allow the initial layer of hardener to penetrate into the concrete for 10 minutes. Smooth the surface with a magnesium trowel and apply a second layer of color hardener.
The edges of the corners are formed using a manual edge bender.
The next stage is the application of a special separating component from Increte Systems to the concrete surface, which ensures that the loaf does not stick to the molds. The separating component is applied using a paintbrush. The brush is immersed in the container with the component, and the release powder is sprayed horizontally using double hands over the surface of the base for stamping.
Stamping. One of the most critical stages. Before stamping, it is necessary to check that the surface has the required degree of ductility. To do this, you need to press your finger in different parts of the site. If, after pressing, an imprint with a depth of 5-6 mm remains, you can begin stamping. The available rubber stamps are laid out on the surface according to the accepted pattern, and pressed into the concrete with a tamper. After this, the prints are left to harden for 1 day.
Elimination of stamping defects using rustication.
Cutting temperature-shrinkable joints using a grinder and a disc for concrete.
Washing concrete from the separating component with running water.
Washing concrete with hydrochloric acid solution.
Spraying Clear Seal with a paint roller and paint brush. The sealant serves as protection for stamped concrete from abrasion, and also gives its surface rich color and a pleasant shine.
Drying. After the sealant has dried, stamped concrete is ready for use.

Self-production of an edge bending machine

How to make a device for performing edge bending operations? This problem can be solved quite simply.

Option one. Long straight edge bending machine

In order to make such a device, you will need its drawings, which are easy to find on the Internet, as well as the following equipment and consumables:

metal channels from which the base and clamps of the edge bender are made;
thick-walled corner for making a crimping punch;
metal sheet from which the edge bender brushes will be made;
a metal bracket used as a handle for a device.

Scheme of operation of a homemade edge bender

The assembly diagram for making a machine for performing edge bending operations is as follows:

The edges of the punch and base are chamfered, the size of which should be 7x45°, and the length should be 30 cm. Metal rods with a diameter of 10 mm are welded to the punch, which will act as axes. When welding such rods, it is necessary to ensure that their axis coincides with the edge of the angle. Samples are made at the ends of the working part of the clamp. A homemade edge bender is pre-assembled in a vice, with the help of which the punch is compressed with the base

In this case, it is important to ensure that the wall of the punch and the working shelf of the base, between which the cardboard spacer is placed, are located in the same plane. Steel brushes are placed on the punch axis and pressed to the base using clamps. After checking the correct position of the brushes, they are welded to the base of the device. Holes are drilled at the base of the edge bender into which clamping bolts are screwed. Studs are welded to the base of the machine - a metal channel - onto which nuts are screwed. Having unscrewed the bolts, they are inserted into the drilled holes of the clamping mechanism and the restriction nuts are screwed onto them. A handle is welded to the metal corner of a homemade edge bender.

Drawing of a bending beam (click to enlarge)

Drawing of the lower beam (click to enlarge)

Drawing of the pressure beam (click to enlarge)

Once your edge bending device is assembled, all that remains is to secure it in a bench vise.

Edge bender mounted on a workbench

https://youtube.com/watch?v=EBreqnlypps

Option two. Manual edge bender for flanging

With this homemade device you can bend edges of any length, and the design is taken from manual factory-made edge benders.

Using these examples, we examined the procedure for manufacturing standard edge benders, which can be used to perform a whole list of technological operations. If you need an edge-bending device, which is used to carry out auto repairs, then it has an even simpler design and, accordingly, low cost, so it is not practical to make it yourself: it is better to purchase such a device.

Related materials:

DIY stamped concrete

Applying a pattern (stamping) is impossible without a base, which is made from ordinary concrete mortar. At the same time, the filling of the future garden path involves reinforcement with a metal mesh during its creation.

It’s quite easy to make stamped concrete with your own hands, and the process of making it begins with this:

The future path is marked and its boundaries are marked.
According to the markings, soil is removed to a depth of at least 20 cm.
Then the excavation is filled with crushed stone. In this case, the pillow must have a thickness of at least 15 cm, with mandatory compaction.
A metal mesh for reinforcement is placed inside the recess, and formwork made of boards is placed along the edges.
Next, the recess under the garden path is filled with ordinary concrete mortar, after which the surface of the not yet hardened concrete is carefully leveled using a long construction rule.

Then the concrete is stamped. It is important to do this on a surface that has not yet dried, using a special pigment hardener. It is designed to increase the strength of the concrete surface and paint it in the selected color.

After the concrete surface has dried a little, embossing is performed on it with a special component, and only after this procedure can you proceed to stamping the concrete yourself.

Temporary structure according to a simplified scheme

The considered version of the sheet bender is made for regular work, and is actually a stationary device. If you urgently need to do one-time work on making tin products, you can create a simpler device.

For production you will need:

Three corners 40-50 mm, width according to your needs;
A pair of door hinges;
Two powerful clamps;
Two rods (circles) as handles.

The two corners are fastened together with loops as tightly as possible.

The third, shorter corner, using clamps, presses the workpiece and the lower crossbeam to the workbench. This machine is not very convenient, but this is compensated by its ease of manufacture. The manufacturing option is up to you to choose.

DOMOSTROYPlumbing and construction

Category: Construction
Link to post
https://firmmy.ru/

Butt welding is notoriously difficult to do on thin iron material. Thanks to the tool that is presented in this video of the “car resuscitator” channel, the work of car repair is greatly facilitated. Now you can mask a seam that is overlapped, resulting in a complete illusion of butt welding. Externally it looks very impressive and beautiful. First, look at how the master works with this tool of his, the design of the edge bender. In the second video you can see product drawings.

The master shows how, using a hand-made homemade edge bender, it is possible to make an even connection between two parts during auto repair. One of the parts has a uniform, flat surface. 2 parts have an edge with a recess. Millimeter deep groove. Two elements are applied to each other. A weld is made along the groove at the junction. Next it is sanded and leveled. We get an even, neat and flat connection of two elements; after coating with paint, it looks like one whole. The effect of butt welding, but in reality there is an overlap.

Let's look at the design of a manual edge bender in more detail. Small vice for stability. Support point. The length of the levers is 0.5 meters. 25 tube. Two pieces of tire are welded to it. Two holes. The result is a U-shaped part. Bolts 12. Let's try to disassemble the tool. When will it be possible to show all the components in more detail. The protrusion on this part is not formative. 2 parts have a counterpart. A lever is made to make work easier.

Two levers are connected to each other through a fulcrum. The pipe is 25, the tire is the same size. Shoulder length 100 millimeters. The distance between the bolts is 25 millimeters. The inner tube is 20 x 20. A millimeter plate is welded to it. The plate compensates for the difference in external and internal diameters. To simplify the design, a thread is cut into the cheek. The master did not use any drawings in the process of making this hand-held device; everything was done on a whim. The entire structure was drawn on paper.

If you want to replicate this design for your auto repair shop, then the following video will be valuable to you. Here you can see all the necessary drawings of this tool, which is called an edge bender. A very convenient device for working in the auto repair process.

A manual edge bender for auto repair, made by yourself, is easy to use and is popular among tinsmiths. There are a number of modern offerings of this device available at retail, although it is not difficult to manufacture.

DIY printed concrete

publication date: 07/25/2018 author: Ivan Sergeev

Most of us have stepped on freshly laid concrete with our boots as children. Printed concrete is not much more complicated than our children's play. Don't overestimate the complexity of the work ahead.

Before reading this article, watch this video. Perhaps this information will be enough.

Below I will provide answers to frequently asked questions. If you don’t find the answer among them, then write your question in the Comments at the end of the article.

Printed concrete can be made in different ways and in combination:

1. Color fixer + color separator = classic color; 2. Color fixative + colorless separator + acid dye = natural natural color; 3. Color fixative + colorless separator = solid color; 4. Clear spacer = stamped concrete without color.

Printed concrete with acid dye color

The entire process of installing printed concrete can be divided into several steps:

1. Preparation of tools and materials. 2. Pouring a regular concrete screed. 3. Stamping the concrete surface. 4. Coloring concrete with acid dye. 5. Washing the surface. 6. Application of a protective coating - polyurethane varnish.

Stamped concrete using colored sealer and release agent

You will need to complete the following steps:

1. Preparation of tools and materials. 2. Pouring a regular concrete screed. 3. Applying a colored fixative. 4. Rubbing the fixative into the concrete surface. 5. Applying a colored separator. 6. Stamping the concrete surface. 7. Washing the surface. 8. Application of a protective coating – polyurethane (acrylic, epoxy) varnish.

Below I will give tips regarding all color options for printed concrete:

– Approximate consumption of acid dye is 1 liter of concentrate per 6 m2. Dilute with water to taste, but usually the proportion is: 1 to 1, 1 to 2, 1 to 3.

– If you want to get a light shade using an acid dye, and you plan to make concrete on gray cement (in 99% of cases, concrete is made on gray cement), then you need to apply a white colored fixer before stamping and rub it in. A kind of whitening of the concrete will occur. Once dry, you can apply the acid dye. In this case, the acid dye can be diluted more, up to 1 to 5.

– Minimum set of tools: a hand polisher for rubbing in a colored fixative, an edge bender for rounding the edges of the concrete surface, a long-haired brush for applying a colored separator.

– Do not apply colored sealer to the concrete surface ahead of time. The colored fixative must be rubbed into the surface of the concrete. The surface of the concrete should be free of excess moisture; there should be no puddles or streams on the concrete.

– Before stamping, make sure that the concrete has acquired the required degree of plasticity and has become similar to plasticine. If you start stamping too early, the concrete surface will not be able to support your weight and maintain the stamp lines. If you are late, you will have to put more effort into the stamps to print clearly. In addition, the texture of the stamps may not be imprinted at all on concrete that is too dense, especially at the end of the job.

– To determine the degree of concrete density, just press your finger on the concrete surface at several points on the site. If there are prints left with a depth of 4-6 mm, then stamping can begin. You can also check it another way: place a stamp on a concrete surface (at the edge of the site) and step on it. The stamp should support your weight, not sink into the concrete, and not slide across the surface.