What stone to sharpen a Damascus steel knife with. How to sharpen a knife correctly

When going out into nature, and even more so before hunting, you always need to make sure that the knife is not dull. You won't get far with a blunt weapon, but you still need to know how to sharpen a knife properly. This process takes some time, and you also need to take into account the type of steel from which the weapon is made in order to effectively sharpen it.

Exquisite knife

You can sharpen knives using the following tools:

• Grindstone

Sharpening stones vary in material and grain size. The most durable whetstone is diamond abrasive, sharpening knives faster than other materials. There is also a ceramic whetstone, and a “hard” one. They vary in grain size into fine, medium and high. It is impossible to sharpen knives efficiently using a stone of only one grain size; you always need to alternate them. To prepare a stone for work, it is necessary to remove small chips from it that remain on its surface after sharpening. To do this, you need to moisten it with water from a spray bottle. Diamond sharpening stones always require wetting.

• Sharpening machines (electrical and mechanical)

Tool sharpening is carried out on a special machine with abrasive discs. The blade should be evenly pressed against the abrasive wheel at an angle of 25-30 degrees at minimum speed. It is problematic to do such a procedure at home, and if you use the machine ineptly, you can ruin the knife.

A special electric sharpener is a very convenient tool. She herself selects the desired sharpening angle, suitable for any type of blade - scissors, knives, screwdrivers, etc. It can be used to sharpen fragile ceramic knives.

• Musat

It is a sword-shaped, cylindrical instrument with a handle, made of metal, ceramic or diamond-coated. When sharpening with this tool, you need to hold it correctly, namely: the grinder should rest against the wooden surface. The knife must be pressed with the blade at an acute angle to the musat near its handle, then lowered with an energetic movement towards the end of the musat. The same should be done with the other side of the blade. The movements are made in an arc, sharpening from the handle to the end of the blade. It should be taken into account that it is not possible to sharpen a dull blade with musat; it can only be used to straighten the edge of the weapon.

• Sharpening set

Sharpened knife with a whetstone

How to properly sharpen blades made of different steels

Knives made of the best metals - Damascus and damask steel - are sharpened differently than tools made of ordinary metals. But how to sharpen such knives correctly?

Damascus steel

Damascus steel knives cannot be sharpened using sharpening machines. Only hand sharpening should be used, since otherwise the tool will lose its unique properties, which are due to the mixture of hard and soft steels in its composition. Before sharpening a blade, you need to determine its hardness: the sharper the edge of the blade, the harder the metal. You need to sharpen a Damascus knife only along the blade, using a fine-grained sharpening stone with a gradual transition to “velvet” sandpaper.

Bulat steel

A blade made of damask steel must be sharpened with a wet whetstone, first with a coarse grain, then with a fine one, and finally the finishing is done on ceramics. The correct process of sharpening damask steel can be seen in the video.

There are various methods for sharpening a hunting blade. Let's look at two of them:

1. To implement the first method you will need: a sharpening stone, a finishing belt and polishing paste. The surface of the sharpening block should be positioned at an angle of 10-15 degrees relative to the side surface of the knife blade. This will help you achieve the ideal sharpening angle, which is 35-45 degrees for hunting blades.

Reciprocating movements are performed perpendicular to the direction of the cutting edge. In this case, the sharp edge of the knife will resemble saw teeth, the dimensions of which will be directly proportional to the abrasive of the sharpening stone. When sharpening a blade, you need to do it slowly, starting from the handle to the end of the tip and back. Both edges of the blade are sharpened in turn. If the blade has not been sharpened for a long time or was sharpened unsuccessfully, it is necessary to press the knife with a block more firmly at the beginning of the process. As the required sharpening angle is reached, the pressure changes to a weaker one.

After this, you need to give the blade even more sharpness. To do this you will need a belt and polishing paste. The entire surface of the blade is applied to a strongly tensioned belt, then a reciprocating movement begins so that the belt is positioned perpendicular to the direction in which the knife is held.

Sharpening on a stone

1. To implement the second method, you will need lemon zest, sandpaper with fine abrasive, and a sharpening stone.

Before properly sharpening a hunting knife, you need to check the hardness of the metal from which it is made. To do this, you can use a needle file by running it along the blade. The hardness of the blade is normal, if when pressed lightly the file will simply slide along the blade, and when pressed hard it will catch the steel a little.

Next, you need to take several sharpening stones with different grain sizes (usually three to five such stones are used). During sharpening, all sharpening stones are used sequentially, starting with the coarsest grain and ending with the fine grain. To keep knives sharp, you need to choose the correct sharpening amplitude. The movement of the whetstone should be directed against the sharpening of the blade, maintaining an average angle.

The final grinding of the blade is done with sandpaper. The blade is polished with a “pull” motion across the marks left by the sharpening tool. Grinding is carried out until even the slightest traces of sharpening become invisible. Again, it is important to maintain the correct sharpening angle. After this, the blade is rubbed with lemon zest to strengthen the surface of the knife.

It is very important to choose the right hunting knife. It is necessary to take into account many factors: length, width, shape, material of the handle and blade, sharpening angle. Much depends on the purpose of using the knife.

Flaws

The main disadvantage is the low resistance to metal corrosion due to the high carbon content in the composition. Finished products require careful care and storage.

The absence of alloying elements - the necessary components to impart certain physical properties to the metal - leads to the formation of rust on the surface of the blade. As a result, the blade can quickly become unusable.

It is recommended to store Damascus steel products in an oil composition.

High cost of products. Intricate manufacturing, unique patterns, and the metal's superior strength characteristics contribute to the high price tag.

Types of hunting knives

With all the variety of characteristics of the offered hunting knives, they can be divided into two groups:

1. General use, used to finish off prey. Their blades are smooth, the handle is necessarily equipped with a limiter.
2. Special purpose (skinning, cutting meat from a bone, butchering an animal or poultry carcass).

They are also divided according to the type of blades and the sharpening of the upper edge. It can be straight or rounded. Handmade hunting knives are especially original in their design.

Choosing a hunting knife

Currently, a large selection of hunting knives is offered from manufacturers in different countries. Russian manufacturers are also not inferior in quality and variety of offered items. Their design is quite simple: a handle and a blade. The blade has a cutting part called the blade and is subject to periodic sharpening. To comply with safety precautions and ensure safety, a case made of durable and soft material (usually thick genuine leather with a wooden or plastic insert) is also very important. It must have a safety strap to prevent the weapon from falling out of its sheath.

When choosing a hunting knife, you must be guided by the main characteristics:

1. The shape of the knife must correspond to the purpose of its use (the blade can be straight or curved).
2. Sharpening hunting knives depends on their purpose.
3. The handle should be comfortable when cutting carcasses. It can be located as a continuation of the blade, or at an angle to it. It is made from various materials: wood, metal, birch bark, ceramics, plastic. To prevent it from slipping out of your hands, it must have a stopper.
4. Method of attaching the handle to the blade. A handle attached with a nut is much stronger than with glue.
5. Blade material for hunting knives. The hardness of steel depends on the carbon content. The most valuable brands are damask and damask. For hunting knives, 50 to 60 HRC (Rockwell) is considered optimal. The steel must be anti-corrosion.
6. Blade length and width. The optimal length is considered to be 12-13, width 3-3.5 cm.

: Final and defense

Damascus steel should look like one solid piece of metal. To get the pattern, you need to etch the steel with acid. There are several options for using acids, but personally I use ferric chloride. If you want a very superficial etching, such as an image on a surface, you only need to dip the metal in acid for about 20 minutes.

I wanted a very deep etching that you could feel, so I immersed my piece for 7 hours. Once you have finished etching, you must clean the metal and neutralize the acid. One of the easiest ways to do this is to simply spray glass cleaner onto the engraved piece after it has been rinsed with water. Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection for all of this. If you want to add some color to the piece, like in the last two photos, just heat it up a little after etching until the desired color is achieved.

Once the etching is complete, the final step is to protect the metal. Steel is strong, but unfortunately, it tends to rust. If the piece you are using needs to be practical, like a knife, you can apply wax to its surface.

If the piece is more decorative, you can apply a clear coat. It all depends on preference. Personally, I decided to try nail polish. I usually use clear polyurethane, but this time I decided to try something new. Once the piece is varnished, all that's left is to enjoy the look.

Methods for sharpening knives

Despite the hardness of the steel from which the knife is made, after a certain time its sharpness decreases. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically restore this function. Sharpening hunting knives can be done in various ways using:

• sharpening stone;
• musata;
• set of tools;
• special pocket sharpeners;
• (mechanical, electrical);

It should be remembered: the smaller the sharpening angle of a hunting knife, the more delicate work it is intended for. For hunting knives it is 15-30 degrees. For example, for cutting and boning work - 30, universal - 20, when skinning and separating meat from bones - 15 degrees.

As a rule, sharpening machines are used in manufacturing plants and in special tool sharpening points. But very often hunters do this on their own, using the other above-mentioned devices for sharpening hunting and

Sharpening a knife with a whetstone (stone)

Let's look at how to properly sharpen a hunting knife using a whetstone at home. When sharpening a knife using this method, you need to choose a flat, wide block at least 25 cm long with a rough structure. In this case, you must follow the sequence of actions:

1. The block must be secured to a flat and stationary surface.
2. Lubricate with oil (vegetable, technical) or soapy water so that the metal chips do not stick to the block, wait a few minutes.
3. With smooth movements, begin sharpening with a moistened whetstone, pulling the knife along it under pressure along the entire length of the blade. We perform this action on both sides in turn. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the initial sharpening angle of the hunting knife.
4. The process must be repeated several times until a new edge appears on top of the old one on both sides.
5. Then the block is changed to a fine-grained stone and finishing is carried out without pressure, with light sliding movements.

To more conveniently secure the whetstone, you can make a frame in the form of a right angle and secure the block in it in an inclined position. You can use a special device to secure the sandpaper with an adjustable slope.

To control the quality of sharpening of hunting knives, you can try cutting a sheet of newspaper in a vertical position in one motion. The sharpening angle can be checked in the simplest way using ordinary scissors. You need to take them in your hands, insert the blade between them, gradually squeezing the blade of the knife. At the same time, for better visibility, point them at a bright light (lamp) to make sure the compression is tight. Then carefully remove the blade and measure the angle between the blades of the scissors with a protractor.

Sharpening a knife with musat

Musat is a file with a round or cut cross-section on both sides and has a handle. It is made from very hard steel or diamond-coated ceramics. Musat usually only corrects blades that are not too dull. In this case, the cutting edge is not damaged even with repeated use. If a knife has completely lost its cutting properties, then you cannot sharpen it this way.

The process is carried out as follows:

• one hand holds the musat in a vertical position (on a non-slip surface);
• in the other hand we take the blade at an angle of 15-20 degrees, stretch it from top to bottom (from ourselves and to ourselves) along the entire length of the blade (first from one side, then from the other). Such repetitions should be done from 4 to 6. When using ceramic or diamond musat, once is enough.

Care of the scabbard

Knife care should not be one-sided. After cleaning the blade and lubricating the handle, you need to take care of the sheath. The main thing to understand here is that the sheath is a means of transporting a knife, and not a place for storing it. Tannins in the leather negatively affect the steel of the blade, and a wet and dirty knife left in the sheath for a long time can cause swelling and loss of elasticity of the material.

The outer surfaces of the sheath must be regularly cleaned of contaminants and treated with automotive leather conditioner. It is important not to forget to remove lint, grains of sand and other small debris from inside the sheath that may scratch the blade.

Leather easily absorbs stubborn pollutants such as rust. Therefore, if oxide has formed on the knife, you should not allow it to get on the surface of the sheath. It is also important to promptly renew torn seam threads and replace failed rivets.

Sharpening a knife using special kits and pocket sharpeners

The knife sharpening kit includes several stones with multi-colored handles, special guides and oil. The sharpening technology with these devices is simple and does not require special skills. Each compartment has its own fastening angle. The color of the handles determines the grain size of the sharpening stones. When using this method, the blade is sharpened perfectly.

Pocket sharpeners, offered in specialized stores, are small stones of various shapes (round, square, oval) that fit in the palm of your hand. As a rule, they are made from quality materials. They are located in special recesses made in a plastic case at a certain angle. These sharpeners are convenient to take with you when hunting or fishing, as they are compact and easy to use.

Knife handle care

Caring for the handle of a knife is no less important than maintaining the blade. Popular wooden and leather handles must be protected from prolonged contact with moisture to avoid deformation, swelling and cracking. If the handle gets wet, it should be dried in a warm and shaded place. If you dry a knife in bright sun or near heating devices, sudden evaporation of moisture and temperature changes can cause cracks, warping, and deformation.

The handle should be serviced along with the blade after each use of the knife and during routine inspection. Special furniture care products and vegetable oils, such as olive, linseed, and clove oils, are suitable for lubricating wood.

Handles made of horn or polymers should be wiped regularly and protected from moisture and direct sunlight.

Dependence of the sharpening method on the steel grade

Not all sharpening methods are equally suitable for different grades of steel. For example, very popular knives made of Damascus steel cannot be sharpened on electric machines, since it has a non-uniform structure. It consists of alternating soft and hard layers, so the blade must be sharpened with extreme care, otherwise the edge of the blade will become ribbed and will crumble in the future. Knives made of this steel should be sharpened by hand, gradually changing the grain size of the stones towards a smaller size.

Bulat steel is characterized by increased hardness. Knives made from it need to be sharpened for a long time. In this case, electrical and mechanical machines are often used. You need to start with coarse-grained stones moistened with water, gradually moving towards fine-grained ones.

It should be noted that with the automated sharpening method it is not possible to achieve the sharpness and accuracy that is provided by manual work. The main advantage is the speed of this process.

Handmade hunting knives require a special approach when sharpening the blade, as they can be made from non-standard grades of steel. Therefore, it is recommended to sharpen them manually.

We conclude: proper sharpening of hunting knives is a very important process for maintaining appearance and durability. This hunting prop should be used only for its intended purpose and remember to keep it clean, periodically lubricating it with oil (both blades and wooden handles) to prevent loss of shine and drying out.

There are many ways to restore the sharpness of a blade. You can sharpen knives manually or using special tools. Blade processing tools are divided into automatic and semi-automatic. With their help, damaged blades are restored, or cutting edges are simply straightened.

IMPORTANT! We should not forget that with each sharpening the amount of metal on the blade decreases.

We will help owners of cutting tools figure out how to properly sharpen knives using any of the proposed methods.

What is real damascus and damask steel

Previously, the technology for making such weapons was kept secret - only craftsmen knew how to make Damascus steel, and the products themselves were highly valued and incredibly expensive. However, even now knives made from these materials are an expensive pleasure, so a considerable percentage of models belong to the category of collectible weapons.

Damascus

The technology for producing Damascus steel involves forging twisted carbon steel rods/plates. Due to forging, the layers are flattened and become very thin - the multilayer structure provides the blade with the necessary strength characteristics.

Bulat

Unlike Damascus, damask blades are made by casting. According to the technology for preparing damask steel, high- and low-carbon steels are used - as a result of melting, the melt with a low carbon content contains partially molten particles of the high-carbon component.

The difference between damask steel and damask

The advantages of damask steel and Damascus steel have divided lovers of such weapons into two camps. So when choosing, buyers rely more on personal preferences. As mentioned above, even by external signs (by drawing), clearly identifying these materials is not a problem.

Damask steel.

Processing a blunt instrument on a machine

The industry produces various electric sharpeners for.

The entire mechanism is located in the housing, which makes working on the machine completely safe. No effort or special skills are required, so any housewife can easily cope with this task.

An electric motor rotates an axis on which several circles for various purposes are located. From rough to give the primary shape or restore the geometry of the blade, to polishing, which is used for final finishing.

Peculiarities of sharpening knives made of Damascus and damask steel.

A huge number of articles and even books are devoted to sharpening knives and other cutting tools. The topic is constantly discussed; there are established sharpening schools with their own masters and adherents. But does all this help the average cutting tool user? With this article I will try to clarify some of the features of sharpening blades made from my favorite patterned steels. To some extent, this is the “cry of the soul” of a person who sharpens knives that he made himself a lot and often. Having made a knife and sharpened it, I, as a rule, exchange it for certain material goods. This is how knives find their new owners. And this is where the fun begins. Most users immediately sharpen the knife, even before they start using it! The knives are produced sharpened to the point of easily shaving hair with a cutting edge angle of 22-25 degrees. The motives behind the resharpening are still unknown to me. Either this is an atavism of the Soviet era, when knives were sold that were frankly dull, or some kind of ritual of “taming” or “domesticating” a knife, similar to breaking horses. This is where the first difficulties begin, because many users do not have sufficient skill in sharpening knives. I am convinced of this by extensive experience in communicating with clients whose knives “stop cutting” after sharpening. I take the knife back, sharpen it, and - lo and behold! He cuts everything again, just a mystery of nature. Sometimes this ritual happens several times in a row, after which my faith in humanity undergoes further changes.

We are not talking about fans of exclusively manual sharpening, who proudly despise all sorts of enemy sharpening devices, like the famous Lansky sharpener. We will also not mention individuals who order a meat cleaver and only cut nails with it. I'm talking about people who use these sharpeners. It took quite a lot of time and statistical material to identify all the pitfalls and develop recommendations for proper sharpening. It is generally accepted that any man understands football, cars, weapons and knife sharpening. Is it so? Let's say you bought a gun in a store, and it seemed to you that its trigger was tight, although you had never fired it yet. What will you do? Will you take a file and start sharpening the parts of the trigger mechanism, although you are doing this for the first time and are not a gunsmith? What will they tell you in the store where you bring your gun with a complaint about the quality? What, this doesn't happen? And with knives all the time. Any work with your hands requires a certain skill, a minimum of knowledge and the right tool. And nothing more. Do they exist? The skill of high-quality handwork has become rare these days. What do we end up with? No one will hit themselves, their loved ones, on crooked hands; it’s easier to say that the knife is bad. And then I’m sincerely surprised that I have it sharp, but he doesn’t. Now let's move on to the practical part. As practice has shown, most problems arise from those who use Lansky and similar devices. Those who are used to sharpening knives only with their hands, and often do this, for the most part do not have any problems at all. Here we need to make a small digression and remind you that we are sharpening damascus or damask steel. These steels have certain features due to their structure. They are composite materials consisting of parts having different mechanical properties. Accordingly, the abrasive material will affect these parts differently. But more on that later. The knife sharpening device itself is quite convenient and allows you to accurately maintain a given angle of the knife, like other devices invented by mankind. The very principle of their operation allows you to work using only the spinal cord (I myself use a homemade and significantly improved analogue of “Lansky”, I need it to facilitate the work and “automate it”, since I sharpen a lot and sometimes in a short time).

But to use even such a simple device you need basic user skills. What mistakes are made when working with this sharpener? The last knife brought for “treatment” had a cutting edge in the form of steps, and even with a different sharpening angle. It turned out that instead of constant, uniform movement of the sharpening stone along the entire length of the edge, it was processed in sections equal to or slightly larger than the width of the jaws of the vice attached to the butt. Then the vice was rearranged, and a step appeared at the boundary of the zones, as the sharpening angle changed. On opposite sides, all these irregularities did not coincide. There is a widespread opinion that “Lansky” does not allow you to accurately maintain the sharpening angle - the further from the clamp, the smaller the angle, so you need to rearrange the clamp during the sharpening process. This is not true. To see this, let’s remember the school geometry course.

Let point A be the beginning of the RK; point B - end of the straight section of the RC; point C is an arbitrary point on a rounded section of the RC; point D - tip; point E is the point of contact between the guide pin and the hole. Points A, B, C, D belong to the same plane ABCD. From point E we lower a perpendicular to the plane ABCD. Let us call the point of intersection of the plane ABCD and the perpendicular F. The segment AB is perpendicular to the segment FB. Now consider a straight section of the RK, limited in the figure by points A and B. From the school geometry course it is known that a plane can be constructed using three points. Thus, we have one plane formed by points A, B and F, and another plane formed by points A, B and E. These planes intersect along the straight line to which segment AB belongs. “In life,” the ABE plane is the working plane of the abrasive stone and, in fact, the plane of the chamfer that forms the RK. The angle of intersection of two planes is naturally constant. As is the angle of the resulting RK. We have dealt with the straight section of the RK, let’s move on to the rounded section, represented in the figure by the BCD curve belonging to the ABCD plane. In order for a Lansky type sharpener to produce a sharpening angle that is the same along the entire length in such a section, it is necessary that the sections FB, FC, and FD be of equal length. Then we can consider the geometric body contained at points B, C, D and F to be a segment of a cone with a base radius equal to segments FB, FC, and FD and height EF. In reality, such a favorable situation rarely occurs, and the curvature of the blade does not coincide with the radius of the “ideal cone”, therefore the sharpening angle changes slightly. But it is almost always possible to secure the blade in such a way that this change in angle will be negligible. That is, there is absolutely no need to rearrange the clamp during the sharpening process. It would also be a good idea to make an exact template from cardboard or thin plastic that follows the contour of the blade, with a mark or rectangular cutout in the shape of the jaws of the clamp, which will allow you to install the clamp in exactly the same place during the next sharpening session. Changing the sharpening angle is also possible in the following cases: - if you press very hard on the block, the knitting needle bends and the angle becomes smaller; - if the knife slopes from the butt, fixing the clamp motionless becomes a very difficult task due to the lack of a flat platform, the edge “walks” » up and down when applying load (see picture);

The spoke is not pressed to the bottom edge of the hole, the angle of inclination fluctuates all the time. It is of great importance to secure the clamp with the blade at the workplace. It is best to secure the device motionlessly, for example, in a small vice. Of course, you can sharpen by holding the device suspended with the clamped blade, but firstly, you will quickly get tired, and secondly, in this position it is very difficult to control the pressing of the knitting needle to the lower edge of the hole. Although branded stands are not cheap, they often do not provide proper support for the device. The next surprise on the said knife was that the burr that appeared during sharpening was not removed! In one place it bent to the right, in another to the left, in the third it completely fell off. As a result, the knife cut with the remainder of the burr and quickly became dull. After sharpening with this knife, we planed an elk antler and a brass rod for a long time and tediously, without serious consequences for the cutting edge. The problems listed above are a consequence of improper use of the device and are easy to avoid. No less close attention should be paid to the stones that are included in the kit. Those that were based on diamond turned out to be unsuitable for sharpening damascus and damask steel, and non-diamond ones leave much to be desired! Super-hard diamond grains simply snatched hard carbides or relatively soft pieces in Damascus from the soft damask matrix. The diamond grains did not grind themselves down, gradually grinding down the metal, but simply gnawed at it. This is good at the preliminary stage of sharpening, when you need to sharpen a very dull knife, where you need a lot of metal removal. But at the final stage of sharpening, this led to chipping of the wheel and the inability to achieve proper sharpness. In principle, this problem did not arise on simple domestic white stones made of 25A electrocorundum. The abrasive, grinding itself down, gently and without jerking removed the metal. The knife was easily brought to the desired state and retained it for a long time. So when finishing sharpening patterned steels, you should use only abrasives that do not contain diamond. But using diamond paste applied to the skin will not be at all superfluous when finishing. But only a few movements on each side, otherwise it’s easy to polish the RK and it will lose its “anger”, it will cling worse to the material being cut. It is important here to maintain this fine line, which is also achieved through experience. No secret knowledge, no “orders of initiates” and narrow specialists, the problem is the lack of sustainable skill in working with hands in our age of disposable things. There is no need to edit or sharpen, repair or do it by hand; it’s easier to buy a bucket of disposable knives and throw them away when they wear out. Disposable life and disposable things, there is no longer a tradition of inheriting a knife from a grandfather or father, there are no connecting links between generations, there is no respect for manual labor. So where does the sharpening skill come from if, with a habitual movement, we broke off the tip of a cardboard cutter and for the next five minutes it is sharp again? Often this attitude is transferred to expensive, made-to-order and one-of-a-kind items. The result of this belief in your “disposable skills” is disappointment from the purchase and complaints to the master. Changing this attitude is difficult, and this article is intended to help avoid most mistakes. But no articles can replace live human communication between the master and the customer, kind and respectful communication. After all, by carefully finishing the knife, trying to remove the smallest jambs in polishing, and sharpening it sharply, the master shows his respect both for the future owner of the blade and for himself. So why shouldn’t the owner of a knife show respect for himself and the work of others by paying a little more attention to sharpening and caring for his beloved and often expensive acquisition? By sharpening your knife correctly and well, you will not only receive the pleasure of a job well done, but also a tool that is easy and pleasant to use. And you will be happy!

Damascus steel is considered one of the most expensive industrial metals. Knives made of this material compete with ceramic ones. They boast the following characteristics:

• spicy;
• long-term;
• functional;
• practical.

But even such a high-quality knife with a good blade requires care and periodic sharpening. They can have a wooden, plastic or metal handle. These knives are characterized by durability, they are: kitchen, hunting, folding, universal, specialized. It is worth noting that if you take such an instrument with you on a hike or on a picnic, you will not go wrong; it will serve you for a long time and with high quality. To sharpen it efficiently, it is better to contact a specialized service that has special machines and other equipment.

Our company and its highly qualified specialists provide such a service as sharpening Damascus steel knives on a machine. This type of procedure guarantees:

• quality;
• blade strength;
• long-term use.

The use of special steel requires a special attitude towards it. made of Damascus steel and will retain its best qualities.

: Security measures

The most important thing is safety. The manufacturing process involves forging, grinding and immersing the metal in chemicals, so it is important to use the proper equipment to ensure safety.

For the forge welding phase (forge welding), many people who do any forging work know the basic safety gear: gloves, apron, closed boots, etc. However, the conditions are not always met. Everyone knows eye protection is important, but for this type of work you need a special kind of protection. The above and only photo in this section is of neodymium glasses. The reason for this is that such glasses are simply necessary for such work.

Experts often neglect this protection, but do not repeat after them. The heat required for forge welding creates radiation that can cause vision loss over the long term. Neodymium glass, however, blocks most of the radiation and keeps your eyes safe. Please note: Neodymium glasses are not the same as welding helmets or sunglasses. By using them in forge welding, your pupils will dilate and your eyes will receive even more radiation.