Bravery and stupidity! Do-it-yourself powerful electric scooter from an ordinary one.

Materials and tools

• gasoline engine from a chain saw;
• gearbox with metal gears from a powerful grinder;
• profile steel pipe of square section;
• drive wheel with bearing and inner bushing;
• bicycle fork with wheel;
• round steel tube;
• paint in a can or regular paint with a brush;
• steel and aluminum sheets.

Tool: electric welding; angle grinder; drill press or drill; wrenches and pliers.

Gasoline scooter from scratch

Hello everyone, I suggest you read the instructions for making a homemade scooter with a gasoline engine. The homemade product is made quite reliably, a powerful disc brake is installed, the frame is welded from profile pipes, the scooter is even equipped with a footrest. The power unit is an engine from a lawn mower with an automatic centrifugal clutch. Of course, the engine is too powerful for such a homemade product, so unlocking its full potential may be impossible and life-threatening. If the project interests you, I suggest you study it in more detail.

Materials and tools used by the author:

List of materials:

– boards, plywood (or similar); – rectangular profile pipes; – spare parts from an old bicycle; – chain drive from a moped, motorcycle (or similar); – disc brake from a bicycle or moped; – wheels for trolleys; – engine from a lawn mower; - sheet metal; – threaded rods, nuts, washers, etc.; - dye; – fittings; – spring for the footrest.

List of tools:

- welding machine; – Bulgarian; - drilling machine; - spanners; - Grinder.

Scooter manufacturing process:

Step one. Rear axle

Let's make a rear axle for a scooter; a threaded rod will be used as it. The author's wheel has two bearings, which are pressed into a steel pipe. In order for the bearings to be tightened with a threaded rod, a spacer must be made between them. The author uses a piece of plastic plumbing pipe as such a spacer.

As for the disc brake, the disc is mounted on the other side of the wheel in a similar way, it is clamped between two washers. The author's wheel disc is dismountable; it is assembled with two bolts and nuts. Instead, we need to install threaded rods of the appropriate length to secure everything to the wheel. Here it is recommended to use a grower to prevent anything from unwinding.

Step three. Making the front fork

Let's make a front fork; for this, the author adapted an old bicycle fork. We simply cut off the excess from it, flatten the edges of the tubes with a hammer and drill holes with a step drill. In the end, all that remains is to screw the front wheel to the fork. Of course, we first clean the fork from rust and old paint. The bushing with bearings for the steering wheel will also need to be cut off from the bicycle frame.

Step four. Frame assembly

For the frame you will need rectangular profile pipes. First we weld a rectangle, in the rear we automatically get a fork for the rear wheel.

In the front part we weld a bushing from the bicycle steering; in addition, the author strengthened the front part using parts cut from an old bicycle fork. It all turned out quite interesting, but at the same time strong. We seal the open sides of the pipes with steel plates to prevent dirt from getting inside, which causes rust.

Step six. Drive sprocket installation

A drive sprocket must be installed on the motor shaft; it must be as small as possible in order to obtain high torque. To install the sprocket, we saw off the nose of the engine; it is made of plastic; the author cuts it with a hacksaw. The sprocket will be held in place with a cotter pin. The cotter pin must be strong, made of carbon steel, otherwise it can easily break off when driving.

Step seven. Engine Installation

We will install the engine on the frame, we will have it as a circuit, and we will fasten it with the help of screws that hold the gas tank. We cut steel tubes and weld them with sheet steel, and then drill holes. We screw these tubes to the engine, and then weld a steel plate to them. The result is a convenient and reliable bracket.

The engine is attached to the frame using bolts and nuts, the nuts are welded to the frame. As a result, the motor can be moved forward or backward to tighten or loosen the chain. Likewise, by unscrewing just two bolts you can remove the engine.

Step eight. Finishing touches

Finally, we lengthen the handlebar using a piece of pipe, and also weld the seat from the bicycle. We make a kickstand for the scooter so that you don’t have to rest it against walls, fences, and so on. The author welded a reliable footrest from rebar. When everything is ready, all that remains is to paint the metal parts. As a result, the scooter will look “like it came from the factory.”

Control

The scooter controls consist of a power switch, gas and brake handles. It is better to make gas in the form of a hook, because it is safer. In case of an unforeseen situation, such a handle is instinctively released.

The brake handle must be equipped with a switch that will turn off the engine when pressed.

Now let's look at a few instructions on how to make an electric scooter using different engines.

Wheels

Wheels are divided by size into micro, mini, midi and maxi. The first have a size of less than 20 cm, the second - 20 cm, the third - from 25 to 30 cm, the fourth - more than 30 cm.

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The choice of wheels to be installed on the scooter depends on its operating conditions. If you drive on smooth roads, then micro-sized wheels are suitable. An electric scooter with them will be light and compact.

If the roads are of average quality, with small cracks and unevenness or are paved with tiles, then the mini option is better. If you plan to move on poor asphalt or dirt roads, then it is necessary to install midi or even maxi size wheels. Inflatable wheels are also suitable.

Do-it-yourself motor scooter from a chainsaw

An equally famous homemade product that the domestic “Kulibins” learned to make. To recreate it we will need:

• a scooter designed to support the weight of the person who will operate it. It is desirable that it initially have a manual braking system. The pneumatic wheelbase of the scooter must be durable;
• a chainsaw from which the engine is removed - medium and high-power models are suitable.

The process of assembling a scooter looks simplified compared to previous homemade products:

• First, remove the motor base and secure it to the back of the scooter frame. Make sure that the motor and wheel sprockets match;
• we attach a manual accelerator with ignition of the chain saw - this way the operator can control the moving process;
• If necessary, the scooter is equipped with a brake pedal, but in most cases, the lever for manual control of the scooter is enough for its full operation.
• testing a scooter made from a chainsaw - if it is working properly, the new motorized device is ready and can be used.

Individuality of choosing a gasoline engine for a bike

A bike with an F50 velomotor.

Like any other thing, the motor must be taken in accordance with your expectations and the tasks assigned to the device. low gas mileage is important to you , then these are the only units. The power and individuality of fastening are important, then it is necessary to pay attention to other signs. Constantly study the reviews of other owners, contact consultants. Having collected as much information as possible, it will be easier to navigate the products.

Are you looking for the perfect model? According to reviews, a product with a reduction gearbox with a gear ratio of 5:1 has the highest level of reliability Such a unit already has internal lubrication, eliminating the problem of frequent maintenance.

for guys and ladies

Preparing to assemble a scooter from a lawn mower

In its basic design, a scooter with a power unit from a household trimmer is very similar to a motorbike. The difference between them lies in the weight and dimensions of the homemade product - a motor scooter is much lighter and more compact than a moped, so for its manufacture the designer can use engines with a power of up to 3-4 liters. With.

In addition to the power unit from the trimmer, to assemble the scooter the manufacturer will need:

All assembled elements, especially the frame used by the scooter, will need to be checked for rust and defects. There should be no signs of corrosion on them, otherwise the homemade trimmer will quickly become unusable.

Features of a homemade wood cutter

Not every profile cutter is sold in the nearest store; a tool ordered in China or for individual production will have to wait a long time, and in the second case, you will also have to pay a lot. It is much easier to make it yourself.

To create a homemade cutter on a manual or vertical milling machine for wood processing you will need:

• The material is durable, heat-resistant steel that holds an edge well.
• An angle grinder or grinder with a cutting wheel for metal.
• Electric sharpener or other grinding tool.
• Vise.
• A drill or screwdriver and a welding inverter are not always needed.

The first copies will not satisfy the quality of surface treatment and geometry. May have poor balance - exhibit noticeable runout, leave a “dirty” rough surface due to incorrect sharpening angles or insufficient sharpness of the cutting edge. After manufacturing and finishing several cutters, the result will begin to please you.

How to make a motor scooter from a trimmer?

To design a scooter with a brushcutter engine, the manufacturer will need a strong welded frame. You can take it from an old scooter, or you can make a frame from metal pipes. Their individual pieces need to be welded to each other with a thick continuous seam. For additional reliability, steel spacers and ties must be welded to the main parts of the frame. The joints must be treated with an anti-corrosion agent. The finished support frame will need to be coated with a thick layer of primer and painted.

The further order of work should be as follows;

After assembling the scooter, the operator must test it. To do this, you need to take the homemade product out onto a flat surface and check it for maneuverability and smoothness. It is important to detect in time any extraneous sounds that may come from the wheels or engine. If they are not there, then the homemade scooter from the trimmer is ready for further use.

What is needed to make a motorbike?

A homemade bicycle from a trimmer must be assembled from a certain list of parts and mechanisms.

To construct a motorbike from a lawn mower with your own hands, the manufacturer will need:

• A fully functional 2-wheeled bicycle with a strong frame with no visible rust on the surface. If they are, then the problem areas must first be coated with a primer and several layers of paint;
• working power unit from a gasoline trimmer. The rated engine power should be 3–6 hp. With. It is not advisable to use more powerful engines, as they will require more fuel mixture;
• belt or drive chain;
• tension roller for a bicycle from a trimmer;
• sprocket - must match the motor used. If possible, you can turn a star on a lathe with your own hands;
• clamp – necessary for stable mounting of the motor on the bicycle frame. You can make the clamp yourself using an all-metal piece of steel;
• a cable that will serve as a connecting link between the power unit and the throttle handle of the bicycle;
• several fuses and a controller;
• exhaust pipe - the length of the standard exhaust pipe from the trimmer will not be enough, so you need to take an additional piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter and weld it to the element of the brush cutter;
• screws, washers, bushings and other fasteners.

Along with the motor from the brush cutter, the manufacturer will need the entire fuel system along with the carburetor, factory clutch, ignition and gas tank. All internal mechanisms must be carefully prepared for assembling the bicycle - their faulty components must be washed and replaced.

Helicopter

This type of homemade product is considered complex and therefore has not been implemented to date. She is in the dreams of enthusiasts, in invented stories. One of them claims that back in the USSR, a prisoner who understood mechanics made a helicopter with a chainsaw engine and was able to escape from the colony.

Making a homemade helicopter requires, unlike a snowmobile, outboard motor, bicycle, grinder and even a snow blower, more complex engineering calculations. They also show that one, even powerful, engine is not capable of lifting such an aircraft into the air. At least 4 motors are required, moreover, forced and working in concert at the highest possible speed. But it is difficult to implement this with chainsaw engines in practice.

Compressor

The craft consists of using an air blower from some device and using a chainsaw motor as its drive. If it is from an air conditioner, then you can make a device for quickly inflating the wheels of a car.

The procedure for making a compressor from a chainsaw:

1. Make a mounting plate from sheet metal. On one side, 2 holes are drilled through which it is attached to the chainsaw instead of a tire. On the other hand, a compressor is placed.
2. A coupling and pulley are installed on the supercharger drive shaft.
3. Place the second pulley on the output shaft of the saw motor.
4. A belt is placed on the pulleys to transmit rotation.
5. The inlet pipe of the supercharger is equipped with an automobile oil filter with oil residues. Air through it is sucked in with oil particles, which reduces overheating of the compressor during operation.

To start the device, turn on the chainsaw motor. When it picks up speed, the coupling is activated and the supercharger starts working. A hose is connected to its outlet pipe, through which the car’s wheels are inflated.

Kit for building a 10” electric scooter: is it worth assembling the scooter yourself?

In this article I will talk about my experience in assembling an electric scooter from a Chinese kit with a 10″ motor wheel and a folding frame. The set consists of a pair of wheels with tubes and tires, one wheel with an electric motor. My version is one of the simplest at 500 W. Also included in the set: a controller with an accelerator trigger and a set of mechanical disc brakes. I assembled the scooter and tested it in operation.

I bought a kit for assembling a scooter with 10″ wheels (36 V 500 W)

KIT

And the frame for building a scooter, also respectively, 10″

FRAME

Content

• Introduction
• Set with motor wheel
• Scooter frame
• Assembly
• Conclusion

Introduction

It all started last summer when we were vacationing in the city of Gelendzhik. There is a long embankment with a beautiful view of the sea. And there are electric scooter rentals everywhere. My son and I had a blast there on different models. And upon returning home to Bryansk, my son said to me: “Dad, we need to make an electric scooter too!”

I definitely don’t need a scooter, our area is compact, we get around on foot or by car. The embankment in Bryansk is 500 meters away and smells of mud. Yes, and I’m a fan of electric bicycles, I have an off-road dual-suspension bike with a bafang 750 W bottom bracket motor.

But we decided to get a scooter as well, as you can’t refuse a child, and something new for yourself. I wanted to take some kugo, but I remembered that I still had a battery from one of my electric bike projects. Why should good things disappear? I need to use it, I thought. And I started looking for a scooter without a battery. But the only one that was suitable for the price was the assembly kit + frame.

Some may find my choice strange or the prices ambiguous, but I was guided solely by my preferences and my vision of beauty. This is what I'm talking about.

I ordered it from the Green E-motion Store on Aliexpress, if the frame says that there is no delivery to the desired country, you just need to pay with a link for $1 x price, the seller will tell you. The current issue is that the value in the declaration is underestimated; I did not pay taxes on two parcels.

Set with motor wheel

Let's start with the assembly kit. The kit is delivered to the user's door by a transport company.

Everything came in a heavy cardboard box. But content protection could be better; Only the motor-wheel had a foam insert; the rest of the equipment was wrapped in air-filled film.

The main thing in the set is the drive, the motor-wheel. Let me remind you that I took the not most powerful 500 W option for my 36 V 17 Ah battery. 48 V versions of electric motors are more popular; they are more powerful, in this size up to 1 kW. City “slick” tires, size 10x2.5″ (25 cm), rubber tubes included.

General characteristics of the motor-wheels of this lot

• Engine model: TX-10
• Rated voltage: 36V/48V
• Power: 250W, 350W, 400W, 500W, 600W 800W 1000W
• Shaft length: 160 mm
• Applicable models: 10 inch scooter
• Fork size: 110mm
• External diameter: 168 mm
• Width: 40 mm
• Weight: 3.2 kg
• Black color
• Speed: 30-65 km/h

The wheel axle is 12 mm with two flats. A long cable protected by a metal spring near the axis comes out of the axle. The wires in the cable are standard: three phase wires for the motor and five for the Hall sensor. Washers with a mustache to protect against rotation in the frame mounts are included in the kit.

Second wheel (front). Cast aluminum disc, width 1.04″. The wheels are designed for disc brakes, industrial bearings with a protective plastic ring. 10 mm axle included.

I would like to note that the wheels do not come assembled. You need to install the tube and tire yourself (steel cord). And this is not easy if there is no long “mounting”, I fiddled with short bicycle mountings for a long time, after my hands were bleeding, I went to a familiar tire shop. The pros did it right away.

The controller of this model is in an aluminum case with water protection and is designed for 36 V and 21 A, but knowing the reliability of Chinese power electronics, I would not recommend loading it with high current. The purpose of the wire bundle is described on the product page. The connectors are ordinary, but Bafang has better protection from water and overturning.

The accelerator trigger (here is the V889 model, some kind of clone of the kugo trigger) is equipped with a round screen and communicates with the controller via the UART protocol. There is a nice bonus - the usb port for charging the phone actually produces about 0.5 A, but it’s enough to charge the phone urgently or make an important call.

The controller with the trigger can be purchased separately, or you can choose another solution; otherwise, there is a large selection of components.

Next are the brakes. There is a set of mechanical brakes with 140 mm discs. Round brake pads. It’s easy to find them on Ali for replacement.

The brake handles are grippy, 11 cm long. They are equipped with limit switches to stop the motor, this is a reasonable solution that increases safety and protects the pads.

All necessary fasteners and cable from the trigger to the controller are included.

Scooter frame

The frame was also delivered by a transport company. The packaging here is quite bulky. Fine? at least there were four large foam inserts inside for protection during transportation.

Included with the frame was a small set of tools and deck cover fasteners.

The frame (wheelbase 88 cm) weighs as much as 10 kg, the main part - the deck - is made of steel, the rest is aluminum alloy. The deck platform is made of 2.5 mm aluminum, dimensions 50x19 cm, and is secured with 8 screws. The red stripes are “sandpaper” glued on to prevent the shoes from slipping.

Quite hard plastic fenders are immediately installed, but handlebar handles (grips) must be purchased separately. There is a mount for a stand with a seat.

The frame is equipped with light. There is a red brake light on the rear fender, powered by battery voltage. The headlight, combined with a signal, operates on 12 V, and shines dullly. I didn’t install them, I use bicycle lights, I have a lot of them.

There was also a disgusting RGB backlight on the sides, in the form of two strips, I immediately removed it.

The frame suspension looks better than it works. The front has just springs without dampers. The rear steel pendulum is absurdly fixed below the plane of the deck, which eats up good ground clearance of up to 8 cm! Well, at least the shock absorbers are adjustable and at least work.

But the steering wheel is comfortable. Width when unfolded 60 cm. Height adjustment 30 cm.

It is necessary to say separately about Chinese welding. The frame is, of course, budget-friendly, but to be honest, our welding vocational school students will do better. The seams are sloppy, welding spatter has not been cleaned up in places.

The walls of the deck were pulled and pulled from welding, I had to use improvised tools and a pneumatic wedge to insert a battery of standard width (a pair of 18650 batteries + extra space for contacts and walls = 140 mm), and the deck was 138-139 mm wide. Full deck dimensions (LxWxD): 475x139x70 mm.

The frame folds quite simply, there are two levers: the main one and the locking one. You pull the stopper, the pin comes out of the groove and use the main lever to fold the frame back in the reverse order. Moreover, the folding mechanism can be adjusted to ensure there is no play by tightening the eccentric nut of the main lever.

Special thanks for the installed footrest - convenient.

The execution of the frame left an ambivalent impression. I would design it easier and more interesting. But I'm lazy >_

Assembly

Assembly ideally should not take much time and require special tools. And so it happened. Most of the time was spent installing and tuning the mechanical brakes. Yes, I had to calibrate all the threads with a tap, but it wasn’t tiring.

In the photo below, you can see how the power button and charging port are placed, as well as how the cables go into the end of the deck.

The trigger screen is color and quite clear. There is a headlight control and a cruise speed control function. There is documentation with error codes and settings.

Displays:

• Selected gear (1-3)
• Current speed
• Time
• Mileage
• Total mileage
• Battery voltage
• Error codes

From the settings available:

• Screen backlight brightness
• Selectable battery voltage 24/36/48 V
• Sleeping mode
• Wheel diameter
• Minimum discharge voltage
• Current through controller
• Speed ​​Limit
• Cruise control
• etc.

Inside the deck, everything is conveniently located along the length; there is enough space for a large (20+ Ah) battery.

But my battery let me down, one group is dying, it needs to be changed. So it is impossible to reliably say the supplied current and capacity.

Of course, on the first trip there were some losses; the trigger mount broke due to a fall, but I made a new one from a metal plate. Although the scooter is not the fastest, I limited the speed to 20 km/h when the child is riding.

Conclusion

The scooter had surprisingly good roll and protection from splashes from puddles. But with such a battery, it did not deliver more than 30 km/h (40 km/h is stated). The suspension is only suitable for riding on asphalt/tiles. But it doesn’t shake, the wheels are wide and do a good job of smoothing out small bumps. At first, after riding an electric bike, it was unusual to ride standing up, but you get used to it quickly, and now we often ride even on business.

When folded, the scooter measures 112x44x19 cm. Total weight is 20 kg. It won't fit in every car trunk.

Here you can see the scooter in action, how it rides at different speeds and modes.

If you forgot anything, since I didn’t plan to write a text review, you can look at my videos, they tell you more about the scooter.

The expected conclusion is that it is cheaper and easier to buy a finished product at your place of residence and with a guarantee. If you have a workshop and skills in working with metal, you can make a frame yourself and better than this one. It is also better to assemble the battery yourself or order an assembly from good high-current elements. It comes out to buy the motor-wheel, which is what they do most often. This whale is more of a field for experimentation, but it was interesting to collect it.

Thank you for your attention. Enjoy the shopping!

What details are needed?

In order to assemble the motorbike structure you will need the following materials:

1. chainsaw motor
2. bicycle wheels 2 pcs.
3. tank, headlight, seat from a motorcycle or other suitable unit
4. spray paint cans 4 pcs. and masking tape
5. metal pipe 16-20 mm.
6. cable
7. chain
8. cycling stars
9. front and rear bicycle forks
10. axis
11. hose
12. plastic bottle
13. IV
14. steering wheel
15. throttle handle

It should be noted that on the modern market there are ready-made kits that include all the necessary parts for making homemade products. But the question here is price. If you want to save money and use unnecessary parts lying around in the barn, you will have to try on your own.

Controller

The controller is, one might say, the brain of the engine. How the scooter will ride and its acceleration at the start depends on it. Selected according to engine parameters. If the motor consumes 36 V, then the controller must be 36 V.

The power is selected taking into account the reserve for the starting load and forced movement. As a rule, a reserve of 2-2.5 times the current is taken. That is, if the motor has a power of 300 Watts, then its rated current is 8.3 A (300W/36V). This means the controller must withstand up to 21A.