Making a pulley with your own hands: recommendations,

How to make a pulley from PCB

It can definitely be made from PCB. From plywood, too, probably, you just need to stick tightening screws with nuts around the circumference, or, in extreme cases, self-tapping screws - so that the belt does not separate the pulley. Plywood pulley A pulley is a very important part of any machine, allowing you to regulate the speed and load on the engine. Making a pulley yourself is good because it can be done.

1 Making a homemade pulley at home from metal and wood General recommendations How to make an aluminum part Making pulleys yourself 2 Pulley. If you need a small pulley or have thick plywood, then the pulley can be made from one circle, cutting it out with a jigsaw, putting it on a screw and making a groove by applying a narrow file to a rotating 5/5 (15).

Now we will look at how to make a do-it-yourself auger for a snow blower from a steel sheet and a conveyor belt. The design of the screw and the principle of its operation.

The pulley is an important part of a belt drive. It transmits the rotation of the drive shaft to the driven shaft, and also allows you to change the speed. Belt drives are common among household appliances, low- and medium-power machine tools, and in various internal combustion engines.

How to make a pulley with your own hands

For homemade designs, you can make a pulley yourself; for this you will need a home workshop and skills in working with wood, plastic, and metal. Purchased pulleys made in factories are most often cast or machined from metal alloys.

Plastic products are produced for low-power engines. At home, without foundry equipment or precision lathes, it is difficult to make a drive wheel from these materials.

Many experts believe that a pulley made of wood, plywood or plastic, which was made in a home workshop, is unreliable, short-lived, will immediately overheat and fall apart. It's not like that at all. If you do not try to replace the wheel of a forge hammer with a force of tons, but use it on a tabletop machine with limited power and speed, then a carefully made part will be able to replace the standard one for quite a long time.

You can make a pulley from sheets of plywood. This is the simplest design; it does not require complex equipment or intricate technological processes. If you make a part from aluminum, it will be much stronger, will be able to transmit more torque, and rotate at a higher speed.

You will have to master the foundry process, even in its simplest form. Manufacturing a pulley by casting will require fire safety and the use of personal protective equipment. The number of parts depends on the width of the drive belt. If it is greater than the thickness of the plywood sheet, the drive wheel body will have to be made from several plywood circles.

When performing the last operation, you need to make the diameter of the hole half a millimeter smaller than the diameter of the shaft. This will allow you to fit the detailed axle into tension.

It will sit much more firmly and will be able to transmit significantly greater torque and rotation speed. Before repeating this or that design, you need to keep a number of points in mind.

How to properly tighten the Matiz hub

For wooden structures, the diameter of the motor axis should be slightly larger than the hole. The design must provide for camber of the internal surfaces of the cheeks with an angle equal to the slope of the cross-section of the drive V-belt.

This will greatly increase the transmitted power due to the adhesion of not only the internal, but also the side part of the belt. Before starting to manufacture the part, especially if the wheel diameter is large, a drawing or at least a sketch is a must.

It will also be necessary to calculate the gear ratio - it will be equal to the ratio of the diameters of the drive and driven disks.

A homemade belt drive pulley will allow you to quickly repair the machine or create a mechanism of your own design. It should be understood that plywood pulleys can last a long time only in structures with limited transmitted power and low angular velocities.

Keeping parts in proper condition

For long-term service of pulleys on a walk-behind tractor, you must follow some simple rules:

promptly check the strength of the seat fastening on the engine axis to prevent the part from becoming loose and failing;
do not forget to check the protective covers that protect the part from dirt and large objects;
check the belt tension to avoid slipping;
visually inspect this unit to identify chips, cracks, etc.;
observe the necessary safety precautions.

Read also: How to make a rack from boards with your own hands

A homemade product will serve you for a very long time without needing repair. As the service life expires, the part can be remanufactured.

The idea arose to make it out of plywood. I thought it was temporary, I’ll find a real one and replace it. But then it became clear that there was no need for this. It has been working flawlessly for me for 7 years now, no worse than any metal one.

The machine turned out great.

How to make a pulley for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands?

You can make your own spline pulley for a walk-behind tractor using 2 methods.

The first method is simpler. It is necessary to select a steel blank of the required size and turn a pulley from it on a lathe. You can do this yourself (if you have the necessary equipment and skills) or in special workshops.

The second method is a little more complicated, and the durability and strength of a pulley made using this method will be significantly lower. But as a temporary replacement in emergency cases, this option is quite suitable.

Before starting work, you need to select a piece of durable plywood, a jigsaw, a drill, and a router.

The manufacturing process itself follows the following algorithm:

Cut a piece of plywood to the required size.
Draw a perfectly even circle on the workpiece and drill a hole exactly in the middle.
Use a jigsaw to cut out a disc in the workpiece. Calculate the dimensions of the disk so that at least 3 cm remains from its edge to the edge of the workpiece.
To polish the edges of the cut disk to a perfectly smooth state, pass a drill through the hole in the center (it is advisable to put a bolt on the drill). The workpiece placed on the drill is ground using fine sandpaper.
Using a router, make a recess in the workpiece for the belt. Before starting work, make sure that the cutter will make the optimal recess.
Measure the diameter of the shaft for fastening and make a corresponding hole in the center of the workpiece.

We also invite you to watch the video, which demonstrates the process of making a pulley from plywood yourself:

After installing the pulley, regularly monitor its technical condition. Such a homemade pulley is perfect for many modifications of walk-behind tractors from such well-known brands as Salyut, Neva, Agro, etc.

Printing and testing:

I printed with transparent PETG FDplast plastic.

For testing, I took 3 belts that were on hand, the old stretched one with a steel cord, the new one, the same, and a soft one with a fiber cord; in all cases, the belt fit perfectly.

For example, what happens if the radius is changed to a millimeter.

I actually didn’t plan to write anything, it just happened by chance while working on a pulley for one project, perhaps this post will be useful to someone. Thank you for your attention!

General recommendations

Purchased pulleys made in factories are most often cast or machined from metal alloys. Plastic products are produced for low-power engines.

At home, without foundry equipment or precision lathes, it is difficult to make a drive wheel from these materials.

Many experts believe that a pulley made of wood, plywood or plastic, which was made in a home workshop, is unreliable, short-lived, will immediately overheat and fall apart.

It's not like that at all. If you do not try to replace the wheel of a forge hammer with a force of 6000 tons, but use it on a tabletop machine with limited power and speed, then a carefully made part will be able to replace the standard one for quite a long time.

If you make a part from aluminum, it will be much stronger, will be able to transmit more torque, and rotate at a higher speed. You will have to master the foundry process, even in its simplest form. Manufacturing a pulley by casting will require fire safety and the use of personal protective equipment.

The wheel can be turned on a lathe if you have one in your home workshop.

Construction[ | ]

Pulleys can be divided into a hub assembly, a disc (for solid ones) or spokes (for composite pulleys) and a rim. The recess in the rim is called the belt groove. The rim may have flanges.

Depending on the design, pulleys can be made:

whole;
compound.

Composite pulleys with a wedge-shaped strand can be used to adjust the belt tension (by removing the disks or screwing the threads in the disk halves).

A special type of composite V-pulley is a variator pulley - its control of the cross-section of the stream allows you to continuously change the transmission ratio. Control of the stream cross-section can be mechanical, hydraulic, or electromagnetic. Such belt variators are widespread in mopeds.

According to manufacturing technology:

cast;
forged;
stamped;
obtained by mechanical processing;
obtained by 3D printing.

According to the rim shape:

smooth (stream-shaped): flat;
wedge;
polycline;
round.

serrated (tooth shape):

straight teeth;

trapezoidal; semicircular; involute.

Pulley rim shape (stream): 1 - flat, 2 - wedge, 3 - semicircular, 4 - poly wedge.
Smooth (flat, wedge and semicircular) and toothed pulleys
Flat cast pulley with convex rim
Composite stamped-welded pulley (acts as a block, i.e. rotates freely on an axis)
Variable V-belt pulleys with controlled cross-section of the strand

Smooth pulleys are used to transmit torque without requirements for kinematic compliance, since slippage is inherent in them.

Toothed pulleys are used when there are requirements for kinematic compliance (for example, in the gas distribution mechanism of an internal combustion engine, in a printer head drive, etc.).

External images

According to the method of fixing the hub:

by interference fit;
with dowels;
with slots.

Making an aluminum part

Making a metal pulley is more difficult than its plywood counterpart, but the reliability of such a part will be much higher. We provide detailed step-by-step instructions for making an aluminum pulley. To produce this part, we need a piece of aluminum and a device for melting it down.

We prepare a mold from polystyrene foam. Before you do this, decide on the required dimensions for your pulley.
We insert the mold into the sand so that the top piece is not covered with it.
We smelt aluminum. It is best to do this in a special melting furnace.
Molten aluminum is poured into the mold.
We mount the faceplate and the smelted part. To do this, you need to drill holes in the workpiece and fasten the elements using self-tapping screws.
We grind our detail. This can be done using a grinder.
We make a hole in our pulley with a drill.

It should be noted that making a metal pulley requires certain skills and resources. To produce it yourself, you will have to spend a lot more time and energy, but such costs will be recouped by the long service life of such a part. Before smelting, you must also make sure that your aluminum has sufficient strength and is suitable for its intended function.

The video channel “E+M” shows the technology for making pulleys from simple and affordable materials using accessible tools. In this case, we will do without a lathe. In the second part of the publication there is another technology from another master. Let's start manufacturing. To make type 1 you will need the following materials. Superglue, sheet metal, linoleum, hot glue and a bicycle spoke.

We begin production with markings. To do this, set off the desired radius with a compass and ruler. Draw a circle on the metal. Now we set aside another radius, but one millimeter less than on the previous disks. Draw a circle on the linoleum. Drill a 2 mm hole for the axle. We apply the center of the disk and linoleum to the center of the tin. Turn it over on the other side and make holes through the stencil.

The axle is made from a bicycle spoke. To bite off, use side cutters or pliers. We assemble and connect the parts together with glue. Since you are turning, we fix it with hot glue. The photo shows an example where a similar pulley is used.

There is a motor from a washing machine. Its power is enough for non-professional work. The turner lengthened the shaft and made it symmetrical on both sides. Now the task is to make a drive pulley without involving a turner. Diameter 95 millimeters. Ten plywood. Use a jigsaw to cut out 5 circles. Diameter 100 millimeters. We will connect the blanks with glue, place them on the shaft and grind them. It turned out that the thickness of the plywood is 12 millimeters, so 5 discs are enough. Total thickness 60 millimeters. Since we plan to use a standard belt for sanding machines, such a circle is sufficient for the width of the belt.

Drill holes in 3 circles with a feather drill. The diameter of the shaft is 14 millimeters, so the drill is 12. Put it together. Apply glue and secure with self-tapping screws. After all the manipulations, the result was a pancake. Its thickness is equal to the thickness that we want to put on the shaft. The shaft diameter is almost 2 millimeters larger. It is necessary to maintain alignment, since there are still differences inside. Insert a round file inside. Holding the file on both sides with your hands, we lay the wheel several times. How to increase the internal diameter and maintain alignment.

After these procedures, we take the two remaining circles, glue them together and fasten them with self-tapping screws. In this way, you can make not only the drive shaft for the grinder, but also a flange for the emery stone. Or any other attachment for sandpaper.

The roller was mounted on the shaft. We will grind with the engine running. The centering of the shaft itself is also not one hundred percent, but this is not critical. If you want to make such a shaft, you can definitely use glue. Do not hit the pulley directly with a hammer, only through the mandrel. You can use a piece of plywood. Slowly, with light blows, he pushes on.

In order to select a pulley for a walk-behind tractor in a store or online, you need to know several parameters of this product. The driven pulley is designed to transmit the rotational motion of the engine to the attachments of the walk-behind tractor via a belt. Using this part, you can increase or decrease the number of revolutions of the walk-behind tractor mechanisms.

Making a mold for pouring

And the first thing you need to do is prepare a solution. Mix sand with clay and gradually moisten it so that the mixture is slightly moist and suitable for molding.

We construct formwork from bricks. Pour the prepared solution inside. Insert the template with a metal rod.

Then we take out the template and leave the rod. And thus we got a mold for pouring aluminum.

What metal is the pulley made of?

To understand what material a pulley should be made of, you need to understand its purpose.

A pulley is a friction wheel designed to transmit torque from a motor to a rotating shaft through a rope or belt. The transmission of motion can be either long or short. And also - with different efforts. The load can be constant, or it can be dynamically changing.

It follows from this that pulleys should be made of cast iron or steel. As a rule, ordinary 40 steel is suitable. These metals have high wear resistance and increased strength.

The manufacture of pulleys according to drawings is carried out according to the following scheme:

cutting a workpiece on a lathe
end processing (trimming)
cutting a hole in the center of the workpiece
boring the central hole to the required diameter
grooving
thread cutting

MICRON LLC performs turning work on the manufacture of custom-made pulleys. For more complete information or to place an order, you can contact the company’s specialists.

For the bicycle suspension system, I needed to make several blocks. I didn’t have blanks of a suitable diameter lying around anywhere, so I turned my attention to plywood.

We cut out several approximately identical squares - in pairs for each block (but it is better to use thicker plywood).

We drill holes in the center of each of them (again, approximately) for the axle.

We glue the squares in pairs to make two blocks, which we tighten with a screw through the central holes. Tightened nuts with washers will act as a clamp, tightening the workpiece until the glue dries.

We clamp the resulting column in a vice. And grind the corners, turning the square into an octagon. I used a sander for this, but just a file or even coarse sandpaper stretched over a block will do.

We clamp the resulting part into the drill chuck and, placing it on rough sandpaper, give it the shape of a cylinder.

After this, the plywood block should be put aside for a day so that the glue sets, because... further manipulations will take place at the adhesive joint.

For further work we will need both hands, so it is advisable to firmly secure the drill to the workbench (I pulled it to the stool)). The workpiece is clamped into the chuck, the drill is turned on..

First, mark the middle of the workpiece with a pencil (to differentiate the two blocks). Then, using a round file, simply applying it to the part, we cut through the pulley groove to the required depth. The file is applied directly to the glue seam (the middle of the workpiece of one block), so you should wait for the glue to dry.

Having finished grinding the second groove, with a flat, or better yet, diamond-shaped file, we narrow the side parts of the pulleys, making them diamond-shaped - when viewed from the side - this reduces friction against the block body during rotation.

Since the blocks were not glued together in the middle, when we unscrew the screw, we will have two neat identical pulleys in our hands.

The pulley is one of the most important spare parts for both drilling and lathe machines. It is a part whose purpose is to regulate the speed and power of the engine. Of course, factory pulleys have a high degree of reliability and are designed for your machine, to which they fit perfectly.

But over time, the pulley, like many other parts, fails and requires replacement. In this article we will tell you how to make a pulley with your own hands. A high-quality hand-made part may not be inferior in reliability to factory-made analogues.

There are several views on making pulleys for machine tools at home. Most of the debate is about the material from which this part should be made. Experts say that making a pulley out of wood is a bad idea. The fact is that during operation of the machine, the pulley is subjected to quite serious thermal and physical stress. A wooden part in such conditions will not work for too long.

Main stages of work

At the next stage, the author quickly assembles a stove from bricks. We cover the cracks with clay. The crucible itself for melting aluminum can be made from a starter housing from a car.

After this, you can proceed directly to melting the aluminum itself. To speed up this process, you need to finely chop the wood chips in advance - they burn very quickly and give a good heat.

The slag that collects on the surface of molten aluminum must be removed periodically. And after that we pour liquid aluminum into molds.

When the aluminum hardens, you will need to remove the metal rods. To do this, it is advisable to preheat them, and then just knock them out with a hammer, holding the part in a vice.

Types of pulleys

Over thousands of years of use, designers have developed many designs of belt pulleys. Their classification is carried out according to various criteria.

Depending on the type of belt used, there are:

Wedge-shaped

The most common type of product. Used with V-belts. The side cheeks provide additional engagement area, increasing the transmission capabilities of torque and rotation speed.

The inclination of the groove must be indicated on the part drawing.

In order to reduce the dimensions of the transmission or increase its power, several streams are launched in parallel. Such pulleys are called multi-grooved; they have the appropriate number of grooves. Sometimes a single belt with several wedge-shaped protrusions is put on such a pulley. This is a poly-V transmission.

In the drawing it is permissible to give a detailed image of one groove and indicate their number. Detailing of the rest in the drawing is not required

If the permissible load is exceeded in an emergency, slipping begins, protecting the equipment from damage.

V-belt transmissions allow you to transmit the highest torque.

Serrated

There are toothed projections on the inner surface of the belt; teeth corresponding to their pitch are also made on the surface of the rim. Gear-belt pairs do not slip and can transmit more torque. They are also distinguished by the accuracy of transmitting the angular position of the shaft, therefore they are used in gas distribution mechanisms of internal combustion engines. The downside is the lack of a protective function against overloads. The rim is made by milling. There is also production by the rolling method. The detail drawing must indicate the exact parameters of the tooth, its pitch, height, and profile.

Flat-shaft

A classic design used in the very first gears. Absorbs vibration and dynamic loads from the drive shaft. They are characterized by low noise, limited torque and rotation speed.

Using additional rollers, you can connect driven and drive shafts that are in different planes, not coaxial, and change the direction of rotation. In this way, cardan and worm gears can be replaced. The drawing of such a product is the simplest, but it should indicate the radii of the rim and cheeks, if provided. Sometimes cheeks are not provided, and the rim profile is made convex. In this case, its radius should be indicated on the drawing.

Round belt

The groove in the rim has a semicircular profile. Such belt drives are used for low transmitted torques and rotational speeds. They also allow you to change the direction of rotation and connect axes located in different planes. In the drawings of such parts, only the radius of the groove is indicated.

CVT

These are the most complex devices in design. The rim is made in the form of a cone with a conical moving cheek. The V-belt ring has the ability to move along the cone in the axial direction, from a smaller radius to a larger one. The second pulley has a reverse taper, and the drive on it moves from a smaller radius to a larger one. In this case, the transmission ratio changes. The cheeks of both pulleys can move in the opposite direction, changing the gear ratio in the opposite direction.

The advantage of the design is that the gear ratio can be changed without stopping rotation and without removing the load from the drive. It can be difficult to understand the operating principle of a device from a drawing. Three-dimensional modeling allows you to supplement models with kinematic simulations that clearly demonstrate the interaction of mechanism parts.

Pulleys are also distinguished by the method of placement on the shaft:

Under the sleeve. Allows you to secure the drive on any standard shaft by selecting a bushing of the appropriate internal diameter. If the seat is damaged, it is enough to replace the bushing, which makes repairs easier and faster.
Under boring. Available with a small central hole. It is bored or drilled to fit the diameter of the shaft. If damaged, it is difficult to repair.
Fixed diameter. Usually equipped with a groove for keyed fastening or splines. Very simple and quick installation and dismantling. Requires exact matching of diameters. Allows the production of molded parts.

Simple calculation of timing pulleys for GT2 belt

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Sometimes there is a desire to use a stretched or torn GT2 belt from a printer in some kind of homemade product where accuracy is not so important. This naturally requires a toothed pulley. Of course, there are many programs with good detailed calculations and construction, but studying all the parameters requires a lot of time and desire. For fairly high-quality and, most importantly, fast calculation and modeling of toothed pulleys, I suggest using this method.

Double pulley manufacturing process

A blank of the required length is cut from the blank.

It needs to be drilled in the center and installed on the motor shaft.

The essence of the process is that the workpiece rotates on a motor, while cutting the mounting holes for the belt is done with a grinder. It is necessary to start the engine and approach it from such a direction that the direction of rotation of the workpiece and the grinder is towards each other, otherwise the abrasive discs will be erased with virtually no result.

First, an even groove is cut on the workpiece, then it needs to be bored to fit the shape of the V-shaped drive belt. During operation, the latter must be constantly tried on until it fits perfectly.

Using this method, you can machine a single, double, triple, or any other pulley. The process is not fast, but it is cheap. The price is a blank and a pair of abrasive discs.

How to make a handicraft at home?

The support for guiding the cutter along the shaft of the workpiece is a tool rest. It is best to make it from a steel pipe or angle iron, because wooden supports wear out quickly and are not able to withstand as heavy loads as a metal part of the same size.

You can make it by welding two pipes in a T-shape, or you can do it even simpler and fix a piece of board with a wooden boss on the frame, but the accuracy and wear resistance of such a design is not durable. The main thing in arranging a tool rest is that the upper edge of the pipe or angle must correspond to the axis of rotation of the workpiece: in this case, the risk of breaking the chisel is minimal.

Important! When working on a lathe, only the lower part of the workpiece can be processed! Failure to do so may cause the incisor to become jammed or fractured, which can result in serious injury. When operating a woodworking machine, be sure to wear safety glasses to reduce the risk of injury.

Posts 1 page 12 of 12

ShareFebruary 111, 2015 16:31:19

Many people have faced the problem of “where to get a large diameter pulley”? The turner is expensive or does not have the required material. And often you can’t even find a turner. I suggest making a pulley of the required diameter yourself.

We take a sheet of metal 2 mm. We drill holes and draw a circle of the required diameter from them. Mine is R 100 mm.

We cut out two round blanks with a grinder. (cut carefully from the top of the sheet).

We make a plate like this, 8-10 mm thick. R-80 mm. And also with a hole in the center. Let's put it all together...

Carefully bend the edges of the thin plates on an anvil. We knock in the place where the thick plate is located. Slowly turn the thick plate in a circle and bend the entire edge. There is no need to rush, bend it 2-3 mm at a time. This way, bringing the bend to what you need.

We twist the resulting “plates” as expected. It turns out something similar to a pulley...

We make a hole of the diameter you need. For me this is the VAZ driven disk hub.

You can weld the hub. But I have it screwed on. You can always change it.

Here is the finished pulley. It's not that difficult.

Any belt will do. Since there is no shelf inside the pulley.

Modeling:

To draw a pulley, I use this model of a tooth, height 1.3 mm, at the base 1 mm at the edge 0.8 mm for pulleys with less than 20 teeth, you will need to reduce the thickness of the tooth, but the nozzle will no longer need 0.4 but 0, 3 or less.

Next, the circular array is trimmed, extruded, everything is standard, we got 5 such blanks, the height of the models is 6 mm.

Pulley from a walk-behind tractor: purpose and types

Walk-behind pulleys differ in:

material performance;
size;
number of streams;
type of mounting holes.

The pulley for the walk-behind tractor is most often made from:

Lighter options made of plastic or pressed sawdust are possible. For this spare part, the diameter is both external and internal. Pulley sizes are standardized to eliminate confusion in this matter. According to current standards, pulleys for walk-behind tractors are:

monolithic - diameter up to 10 cm;
disc - 4-8 cm;
equipped with knitting needles - 18-100 cm in diameter.

For pulleys of different sizes, the landing grooves, although present in approximately the same number (about 8), are different in shape:

Their number usually does not exceed 8

Based on the fact that the maneuverability of a walk-behind tractor is determined by the transfer of the belt between streams, the subtypes of pulleys are:

Also, depending on which shaft it belongs to, the pulley is classified into:

For example, the driven pulley on a walk-behind tractor is designed to communicate with the motor and bring auxiliary equipment into working condition. The driven one is installed directly on the crankshaft.

Varieties

Manufacturers produce three types of pulleys for walk-behind tractors:

disk - have a size from 8 to 40 cm;
with knitting needles - have a diameter from 18 to 100 cm;
monolithic - two-strand ones have a size of 3 cm, and three-stranded ones have a size of 10 cm.

There are two types of mounting hole:

All pulleys have 8 grooves, the quality of grinding of which determines the wear rate of the working belt.

Types of pulleys depending on the type of gearbox:

For walk-behind tractors with attached equipment, it is necessary to purchase pulleys with a diameter of 19 mm, and for more complex high-speed machines you will need pulleys with a diameter of 13.5 cm.

Making a stationary circular saw with your own hands

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular saw from 9 thousand rubles. It will ensure proper work safety and save time on sawing wood. But, you can not spend money and make your own machine according to drawings and blanks.

Circulation saw table

Despite the external complexity of the design, it is not so difficult to assemble it yourself at home. Any stationary saw model consists of several elements:

table;
disc with teeth;
engine;
adjustable side support;
shaft

Complete compact installation

To assemble all the parts of the circular saw, prepare:

metal sheet from 8 mm thick;
metal corner 45 by 45 mm;
electric motor;
disc with teeth;
ball bearing;
welding machine;
block of wood;
a piece of plastic or leftover laminate.

To make all the elements correctly, you should choose a drawing that will indicate the dimensions of the table for a hand-held circular saw, as well as all other dimensions and materials for the work. Here are some examples of ready-made schemes:

Simple table option

Disc sizes for home tools

Detailed plan with all dimensions 3D model of the table

The assembly of the structure itself will proceed according to a certain plan, regardless of the chosen scheme:

Illustration Sequence of work

The tabletop must be made strong and stable. Use sheet metal according to your dimensions

If you plan to install other devices on the table, then arrange a place for them using thick plywood.

When making a guide for a circular saw with your own hands, pay attention to its height. It should protrude 12 cm above the table. This way you will have the opportunity to process the boards in width and thickness

To make a guide, take two pieces of corner and a clamp

This way you will have the opportunity to process the boards in width and thickness. To make a guide, take two pieces of corner and a clamp.

Make the central saw adjustable in height.

For the motor, mount a separate platform on the same axis with the rocker arm. Fix it with a bolt with a diameter of 1.5 cm. Install a metal plate on the side of the saw, having previously made a hole in it through which the bolt with attached handles passes.

For more detailed instructions on making a stationary circular saw, see the video:

Watch this video on YouTube

a circular saw

We make a circular saw from an angle grinder with our own hands: drawings and production videos

To create a circular saw with your own hands, you need to prepare a grinder engine, a profile rectangular pipe and steel corners. To get a truly comfortable saw, it is worth considering a stop, an axis handle and rods for adjustment.

Here are some do-it-yourself drawings of a stand for an angle grinder. Using them you can assemble a stop that allows the saw to slide.

Drawing option for work

Assembled equipment

The order of assembly of the stop will be as follows:

Several metal angles are required for a standard "T" stop. Place them at a distance of 3-4 mm on each side of the disk.
The edges at the bottom must be rounded to avoid scratches on the workpiece during operation.
Attach the corners with cross braces to the bolts and nuts on the front and back. The slots are fixed with washers.
Place a metal clamp on the body. At the rear, you fasten the elements so that the thrust post and the clamp become one.
Drill 2-4 mounting holes in the gearbox housing. It is more convenient to do this in the disassembled state of the element.

After assembling the stop, make an axial handle and an adjusting rod. Watch the video on how to make a frame for an angle grinder with your own hands according to the drawings:

Watch this video on YouTube

After connecting all the elements, your homemade circular grinder will be ready. In addition to it, various parts can be made. Here are some photos of DIY circular saw accessories:

A simple stop made from a long wooden beam

A quick version of a circular table

Disc cover with teethComfortable work desk

What other types of machines can be made?

Before creating your own lathe, you should study those varieties that were invented by many interested people. Among the machines, both home-made and factory-made, the following types are distinguished.

Turning and milling

Such a machine is already a powerful modification of previous versions of machines. Most often, a turning and milling machine is equipped with a CNC, because it is extremely difficult to manually control the milling machine with high precision. However, such a machine has a right to exist and is widely used for domestic needs. Its design consists of:

Beds.
Electric motor for rotating the headstock.
A manual milling cutter placed on guides that ensure its movement along the axis of rotation of the workpiece.

With a copier

A lathe and copying machine is necessary when creating a large number of identical products; most often you hear about dishes and balusters for stairs.

There are several options for making a copy lathe: with a router, with a circular saw and with a chisel. All these methods involve the use of patterns. A pattern is a profile of a future product, which is cut from thin plywood.

A handrail is attached along the lathe along the entire length of the workpiece. The pattern is mounted behind the lathe. A cutter or cutter is attached to the handrail, the movements of which are regulated thanks to a stop running from the cutter, cutter or saw to the pattern.

Thus, during the rotation of the block, the cutting tool completely repeats the silhouette of the plywood profile with sufficient accuracy.

Mini

For many household needs, it is not necessary to create a unit of impressive size, capable of rotating a log with a radius of 300 mm. Sometimes a machine with an extremely simple design is sufficient, in which the engine can be a drive from an old tape recorder, powered through a power supply. For the bed of such a machine, you can use a board 150 * 20 and long, which depends only on the needs of the craftsman.

For such a mini-machine, a belt drive would be superfluous, so most often the headstock is mounted directly on the motor shaft. And the head from a drill or a homemade chuck with three clamping screws serves as a faceplate.

The tailstock is made of a block, in the center of which a hole for the shaft is drilled exactly at the height of the motor axis, which can be a dowel-nail. If you provide the machine with a power supply with adjustable output voltage, you can get the unit with a speed controller.

From an electric drill

An electric drill can be found in almost every home. The advantage of a machine driven by an electric drill is that there is no need to buy a separate motor. Drill-powered designs range from the most basic, where the drill is clamped to the table.

On the contrary, the tailstock is mounted using a pair of angles and a nail or a sharpened screw, to a more advanced one, in which the drill serves as a source of rotating force, but is not directly involved in the process of rotating the workpiece. The second method protects the motor from overheating and stalling under overload.

In the video you can see how to make a wood lathe with your own hands from a drill.

From a washing machine motor

It is a standard layout of a lathe with a motor, direct or belt drive, bed and two headstocks.

When constructing a lathe from a washing machine motor, it is necessary to remember that the motor of a household appliance is designed to circulate with an unbalanced load, but this does not mean that the tailstock can be abandoned. Its presence is mandatory especially when working with long and heavy workpieces. The design of such a lathe is easy to implement at home. To do this you need:

Weld or bolt two steel pipes and attach a motor from a household appliance to one end. Fix a block between the pipes with the ability to move it along the frame; the corner of the tool rest will be attached to it. On the opposite side, the tailstock is installed in accordance with the instructions outlined above.

Making pulleys yourself

Before repeating this or that design, you need to keep a number of points in mind. For wooden structures, the diameter of the motor axis should be slightly larger than the hole.

The design must provide for camber of the internal surfaces of the cheeks with an angle equal to the slope of the cross-section of the drive V-belt. This will greatly increase the transmitted power due to the adhesion of not only the internal, but also the side part of the belt.

Before starting to manufacture the part, especially if the wheel diameter is large, a drawing or at least a sketch is a must. It will also be necessary to calculate the gear ratio - it will be equal to the ratio of the diameters of the drive and driven disks.

It should be understood that plywood pulleys can last a long time only in structures with limited transmitted power and low angular velocities.

The belt drive in question is distinguished by a minimum of parts: it has only one pulley, made by hand, and works without a rubber belt, instead of which a piece of a dog leash is fitted.

The handmade pulley is very different from the usual shape (with sides): it does not have a recess for the belt, and moreover, its edges are rounded. In general, the entire pulley should be slightly convex. Thanks to this shape, the flat belt self-centers, and sometimes it is enough for only one pulley to have a convex shape. By the way, in mechanical engineering for flat belts the pulleys are convex. A flat belt cannot be held by a pulley with a side - it will either climb onto this side or begin to jam at the side. Pulleys with sides are used for V-belts, toothed and round (in cross-section) belts.

If you doubt that a convex pulley can hold a belt, you can conduct a simple experiment with a real model. You will need simple parts: rods, a straight cylinder, some part with a smoothly changing diameter, a wide elastic band and the base of the structure.

This model demonstrates how, when rotated, the elastic moves along a wooden “pulley” from the narrowest part on the left to the largest diameter, where it remains. If the elastic is placed in the concave part, it will again quickly move to the place with the largest diameter.

The pulley is made of fiberboard. Instead of a second (small) pulley, a bolt is fitted. Due to the large difference in diameter between the large pulley and the bolt that replaces the small pulley, this transmission has a large gear ratio. However, this contributes to greater slipping of the belt on the bolt, which, even without this, almost does not adhere to it. Therefore, for example, abrasive paper should be glued to the bolt. Of course, it will not last long, but over time you can pick up something else.

The belt, as mentioned above, is made from a piece of a dog leash, which is made of nylon. To connect the two ends of a segment, some piece of iron is heated by fire, then the ends of the segment are applied to it, they are melted and immediately pressed against each other.

Making a pulley with your own hands

There are several methods that allow you to independently make a splined pulley for a walk-behind tractor. The easiest way is to grind the part. To do this, select a suitable workpiece and process it on a lathe. If you do not have a specialized machine at your disposal, you can order the production of the part at a turning workshop. However, it should be taken into account that the pulley for a walk-behind tractor is a fairly large element, so it will be quite difficult for the master to find a suitable workpiece for turning the element. In this case, you can make the pulley yourself, and order a flange for it from a workshop.

The second method is more difficult to implement. To work, you need to prepare a sheet of plywood, an electric jigsaw, a drill and a hand router in advance. The procedure is as follows:

First of all, cut a piece of suitable diameter from plywood;
Take a compass and draw a circle on the workpiece. Make a hole in the center of it;
Using an electric jigsaw, cut out the disc. In this case, the distance from the edge of the disk to the outer line of the plywood should be approximately 2–3 cm;
To give the cut disk a perfectly round shape, attach a drill with a bolt pre-attached to the drill in its central hole, and sand the workpiece using fine-grained sandpaper;
Next, form the place where the belt will be tensioned. This is very easy to do using a hand router. Securely fix the disk on the workbench using self-tapping screws, and select a groove for the belt, having previously selected a cutter suitable for the job;
After making the pulley, take measurements of its seat on the motor shaft and drill a hole of the required diameter inside the part.

Making a product at home

There are several ways to make a pulley with your own hands, and we will tell you some of them.

The easiest way to make it at home is using a lathe. You need to select a suitable workpiece and simply turn the part to size.

For the second manufacturing method, you will need plywood with a thickness of at least 20 mm, a hand router and jigsaw, and a drill.

First you need to make a disk of the required diameter from plywood. Using a compass, draw a circle and make a hole in the center of it. Next, using a jigsaw, we cut out the disk with a margin of 2-3 mm from the line.

In order for the disc to have a perfect round shape, we clamp it into the drill through the central hole using a bolt and nut and sand it with sandpaper, processing all the irregularities.

The next step will be to form a seat for the belt. To do this we use a hand router. We fix the disk on the workbench using self-tapping screws and, having selected a suitable cutter, select a groove for the belt. So, the pulley is ready. You will need to measure the seat diameter of the pulley on the motor axle and drill the required hole.

A homemade pulley is attached to the engine axis using a flange.

If you do not have a lathe at hand, you can order this part from a familiar turner, but the driven pulley for a walk-behind tractor is of impressive size, and most often it is very difficult to find a workpiece of this diameter for turning. Therefore, we recommend making it yourself and ordering a flange.