Do-it-yourself metal graver for engraving

Assembling an electric engraver with a tripod and flexible shaft

An electric engraver is the most common type of this type of tool at home. To make a functionally complete device yourself, capable of competing with industrially produced analogues, you will need an electric motor that runs on 220 V alternating current. Such electric motors can be taken from the following equipment:

Soviet-style reel-to-reel tape recorders;
DVD players;
washing machines;
angle grinders;
electric sewing machines.

The last option is optimal because it is possible to adjust the speed over a fairly wide range using the built-in rheostat.

Holding an electric motor from any of the listed types of equipment in one hand is inconvenient, and in most cases it is simply impossible. Therefore, you will need a flexible shaft for the engraver. In this case, the general view of the future device will turn out approximately as in the photo below.

The functionality of the created engraving device will depend on the materials and mechanisms used during assembly. The motor can be placed on a table, but it is more convenient to make a tripod for the engraver, or rather something similar.

Manufacturing of flexible shaft

With a flexible shaft everything is relatively simple. It can be done in several ways:

from an old drive shaft, for example, from a dental drill;
using the speedometer cable of a motorcycle or car.

The working attachment on the shaft can also be used from a drill or made independently from different materials, for example, wood, textolite, plastic pipes. A device (handle) for holding the equipment is made from textolite as follows:

cut 2 textolite platinums (sheet thickness should be about 1 cm) measuring approximately 2 by 10 cm;
connect them together and grind them with a file or emery from the outside to form a cylinder;
grooves are machined from the inside;
metal rings secure the parts to each other;
a tube is inserted into the front part of the handle, under a cartridge consisting of two separate halves connected with a bolt.

The end result will be a handle like the one in the photo below.

Assembling the engraving unit

It’s very easy to make a tripod (a base for installing an electric motor) from plywood or the same PCB. To do this, do this:

cut out several pieces (4 are enough) from a sheet of material corresponding to the size of the electric motor;
a motor is attached to one of the fragments using clamps;
assemble the box;
A hole is drilled in the front part for the flexible shaft.

The created structure is hung on the wall.

It is convenient to use a factory holder on clamps for an engraver, if the dimensions of the electric motor allow. The mount connects to any table. But such a device will need to be purchased additionally.

Further assembly of the engraving device is carried out in the following sequence:

using a coupling made from a drilled bolt, connect the cable to the electric motor shaft;

put a rubber hose of the appropriate diameter on the cable and attach a handle made to it;

install a start button;
connect equipment to the network;

check the functionality of the device made.

When creating homemade straight grinders, you can also use electric motors designed for 380 V, but if they can be adapted for 220 V. In such cases, you will need to tinker a little more. There is a lot of information on this issue both on the Internet and in books on electrical engineering.

Review of professional attachments for engravers

Professional tools constitute a separate (high-quality and expensive) category of equipment that can withstand significant operating loads without negative consequences. It is customary to equip such devices with appropriate consumables.

Experts who professionally engrave various materials recommend purchasing sets of attachments from well-known brands, such as Dremel or Dexter.

. The significant cost of the products of these companies is fully justified by the fact that their products are reliable, high quality and durable. The use of burrs for wood, metal and other materials produced by these companies increases the accuracy of workpiece processing.

Often, specialists have several sets of equipment designed to process different materials and perform various operations. Also, the individual elements that make up them have their own design features. Typically these sets include:

cutters for metal, wood and other materials, of various designs;
drill;
felt, diamond, and abrasive cutters;
wire brushes for cleaning surfaces;
engraving rods;
cutting discs.

The kits also include a straight edge cutter.

Straight edge cutter Topfix

Replacement equipment of the Dremel and Dexter brands can be used not only by workshop specialists, but also by home craftsmen who want to improve in the art of engraving.

Some engraving artists recommend products

, lower quality than Dremel or Dexter, but cheaper. The set can include up to 180 units of consumables of popular varieties. But products from Zubr, in general, fall into the semi-professional and household categories.

Typically, a milling attachment for an engraver is included with the purchased tool. But with constant use, it wears out over time. Also, cutters may be needed for specific operations - then you need to buy new burs in order to continue working with the Dremel.

The ideal option is to purchase products recommended by the engraver manufacturer.

In such cases, the warranty from the companies for the device in use is retained. But it happens that original consumables cannot be obtained for some reason, or they will be very expensive given the small volume of upcoming work operations. Then you will need to purchase analogues or even use homemade ones. In this case, the main rules of choice are as follows.

the shank diameter
suitable for the Dremel chuck : most often it is 2.4 or 3.2 mm.
You need to purchase attachments for metal and other materials depending on the type of work you plan to perform.
To engrave, you can also use inexpensive kits
, for example, made in China or Russia.
For constant, long-term work with a mini-drill (especially with hard materials), it is recommended to purchase high-quality, professional sets, and for occasional engraving, household ones are sufficient.

When learning various Dremel operations, inexpensive products are suitable. Over time, they should be abandoned in favor of better quality equipment.

How to make it at home with your own hands?

Engraving on metal can be done not only in a special workshop, but also at home. Regardless of the conditions in which the work takes place, the main priority is to obtain a quality product. If you plan to do the work yourself, then the best option would be to purchase a special tool known as an engraver.

The process of processing a product at home consists of several steps.

Before starting work, it is imperative to prepare an image or inscription. The product is placed using a marker, or you can outline the contours using a sharpened pencil.
Engraving requires close attention. Any work can only be carried out if the room is sufficiently lit. Otherwise, you can not only damage the product, but also get injured during the metal finishing process.
After all engraving work is completed, the surface that has been processed must be coated with a special varnish. If this is not enough, then to obtain the most lasting result you need to use wax, which is applied in a small layer.

Engraving on metal at home can also be done using electrochemical action. To carry out the work, a set of tools that any person has at hand can be used.

The container used must fully match the dimensions of the product itself. The metal object should fit into the container without any problems, the neck should not stick out. If the product is not large in size, then a faceted glass can be used. Today, a glass jar continues to be the best option.
Wires for connection with clamps. An excellent option would be to use household clothespins.
A regular mobile battery will be sufficient.

Another fairly effective way to engrave metal at home is to use a drill. It should be noted that this tool is quite expensive, so it is worth buying it only if the processing will not be carried out on a one-time basis.

When using such a tool, its working part is capable of effectively removing a layer of metal using a special attachment. It is usually offered as a kit. Do not use the tool on the material immediately. It is best to try it on various workpieces.

In addition to the drill, you can use other equipment. For more than 5 thousand years, humanity has been inventing various devices capable of processing metal.

A distinctive feature of home laser engraving is that it can be carried out in combination with a paste solution. It is usually applied to the material before engraving begins. This must be done carefully so as to only touch the area being treated. An image or inscription is burned using a laser. This happens due to a change in temperature, which becomes possible as a result of a chemical process. This method is very effective and fast, however, its cost is quite high, so there is no point in purchasing such a device if you need to carry out a one-time engraving.

Thus, metal engraving allows you to put an image or inscription on an object, radically changing its appearance. There are many engraving methods available, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. The choice of a particular method depends not only on the skills of the person, but also on the characteristics of the material used.

How to make a metal gravel with your own hands

· 09.09.2019

Applying a pattern to various objects by removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone.

New technologies make it possible to fully automate the engraving process when applying a design to a metal surface, but for a home craftsman, the most suitable option is to master the manual method of applying a design.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.

What is needed for engraving

For manual engraving at home, you will need the following tools and materials:

Stichel.
Metal blank.
A vice or similar device for holding a workpiece stationary.

The blank for applying the pattern can be used from any metal, but for beginning craftsmen it is better to use aluminum or copper.

The graver is a rod up to 120 mm long. One end of this tool is cut at an angle and sharpened, the other is installed in a handle made of wood or plastic.

The graver can be of different shapes and also differ in the width of the working surface. If you do not have this tool, you can make it yourself if you have materials suitable for this purpose.

Making your own gravel

To make a gravel, it is necessary to use tool steel. The metal used in springs and ball bearings is excellent for this purpose. To make a cutting surface, you can use old files and needle files, as well as various cutters that need to be cut into thin strips.

The ideal material for making an engraving pen is P18 steel. From old circles for circular saws you can make a large number of blanks for the production of gravers at home. Next, the working part of the workpiece is sharpened at an angle that will make it possible to make a notch of a certain width on the metal surface.

The handle of the gravel is made of hardwood, and should be of such a width that the master can comfortably hold the tool in his hand. The recommended length of this part of the gravel is usually 50 mm.

A mushroom-shaped handle is the most suitable for making this tool, but you can experiment and make several different options, and in the process choose the most suitable option.

Preparation of the workpiece

First of all, you should select a blank on which the drawing will be displayed. The selected product must be free of rust and chips. To prepare the surface you will need:

Sandpaper P400.
GOI paste No. 1 or No. 2

First, the workpiece is polished using sandpaper. Then final polishing is carried out using GOI paste.

To avoid damage to the surface, when carrying out polishing work with GOI paste, it is recommended to use this product only No. 1 or No. 2.

You should also do the following before finishing polishing with this product:

Prepare a flannel cloth and moisten it with white spirit
Pour GOI paste onto a dampened cloth.
Wipe the unwanted area of metal with a cloth to remove large pieces that could scratch the surface.

After such preparation, the workpiece is polished using uniform circular movements. After completing the polishing activities, the metal object must be rinsed in kerosene and dried at room temperature.

The process of engraving on metal

If you are engraving a metal surface for the first time, then before you start applying the main design, it is recommended to practice on an unnecessary piece of metal.

The ideal option for such training is to use a copper plate. A piece of copper should be securely fixed to a wooden board using self-tapping screws with wide heads. When the workpiece is secured, the board is laid on the table, additional lighting is turned on if necessary, the cutting tool is clamped in the right hand, and an even notch is made on the metal surface.

To prevent the hand from slipping when making a straight line, on the surface of the metal plate the thumbs of the left and right hands should be connected and touch the plate where the drawing is made.

The index finger of the right hand, at this time, rests on the tool’s cutter and completely controls the process of drawing lines. It is recommended to first make several straight parallel stripes on the workpiece.

When the smooth areas look good, you can move on to making semicircular lines.

When your hand is already a little full, you can begin to engrave the design on the workpiece. To carry out this work, the metal object must also be securely fixed. For this purpose, a device similar to the self-tapping locking mechanism described above should be made.

Making a gravel for engraving on metal

Making a serger of the simplest design is possible for a home craftsman with metalworking skills. To do this, take as a basis:

file or needle file;
spring leaf;
part of the bearing race.

The main thing is that the steel is high-strength and elastic. Strength is necessary for the graver to successfully cut the metal of the workpiece, not become dull for a long time and maintain the specified sharpening shape. Elasticity will allow the tool not to break under load.

A higher-quality cutter can be obtained by forging, but for this you must have good blacksmithing skills and have a forge. A file made from a needle file will be noticeably inferior to a forged one in both strength and flexibility.

Before you start sawing and forging metal, you should build a drawing of the tool. You will need not only a large-scale image of the cutter itself, but also a drawing of the handle.

General technology

The technique can be manual or mechanical (various equipment is used).

It is also divided into line and armor:

The line engraving technique is performed by applying contour lines and strokes to an object. Metal carvings are not deep, affecting only the surface of the object;
Defensive, otherwise called three-dimensional, mechanical deep technique allows you to achieve a three-dimensional pattern. See photo.

Incisive engraving is performed with a special tool – a graver.

If you ask yourself how to make it yourself and where to buy these tools, then the answer is simple: this tool is sold in the same stores where you can find various art supplies.

The finest lines are made with a Messer-Stichel. If you need to make parallel lines, they are made with a rap pen.

Photo:

To perform high-quality work, this tool must be sharpened; for this, a fine-grained whetstone is used, which is pre-moistened with water or oil.

The graver is brought “to readiness” with a leather product (you can take an old belt) coated with chromium oxide.

Manual processing of small items at home requires the presence of a special pillow; you can easily make it yourself: take two pieces of fabric of the same size (round or square), sew them together along the edge, stepping back from it a little, but you need to leave a small gap in order to so you can pour sand inside.

The cushion engraving tool is ready.

How to properly hold the instrument in your hand?

This should be done as if you were holding a regular ballpoint pen: the index finger should be on top of the blade (that’s what the metal part of the cutter is called), and the thumb should hold it on the side.

Work must be done on your own.

In the case when you need to change the direction of the pattern, unfold the pillow with the object on which the element is being applied, but do not change the direction of movement of the hand.

What else is useful to know about incisors?

To do your own engraving at home, it is advisable to first practice so that the carving turns out beautiful in the end.

It is better to purchase a set of tools: it is better to apply rounded lines with a square section of cutters, and it is better to make straight lines with a round section.

You can make the scraper yourself. To do this, you will need a file, from the edges of which you need to grind off the notch.

Before application, the surface must be cleaned with fine sandpaper and polished. A special polishing paste is used for polishing.

The paste can be easily replaced with chromium oxide (oil paint). The surface of the object must be thoroughly and vigorously rubbed. The paste is ground with a thick piece of leather.

This is interesting: Shtangenreysmas - purpose, verification, GOST

Purpose of the graver

For engraving, the master needs a set of metal stamps of different shapes to engrave various elements of the image. The most common are:

Spitz is a wedge-shaped cutter with a slope of 30 to 40°, used to design the outline of an image and clear elements of great depth;
Messer - resembles a knife, the wedge slope is from 15 to 30°, it is used to make fine details;
flah - similar to a chisel blade 0.15-6 mm wide, used to select depressions in the design;
bol - a rounded point with a radius of 0.2-0.6 mm; with its help, semicircular depressions are selected, from which text elements of the design are formed;
hornbeam - diamond-shaped section, large elements on concave elements are chosen with it;
facet - a trapezoidal section with a blade sharpening angle from 50 to 115°, used for forming images of high complexity;
Shatir - the blade has a serrated shape with a distance between the teeth from 0.1 to 0.5 mm, it is used to obtain several parallel strokes.

Stichels for carving metal of other shapes are rarely used for restoration work and when making particularly complex images.

Soft varnish

This technique is a type of etching made with a soft acid-resistant varnish (also called tear-off). This varnish is created by adding fat to it.

To begin, the engraver coats the metal plate with a soft varnish and carefully attaches grainy paper to it. A drawing is created on paper with a hard pencil, which causes the varnish to stick in the areas of the resulting image.

But due to the fat contained in the composition, when removing a sheet of paper from a plate, these particles of varnish stuck to the paper easily become detached from the metal (torn off). After this, etching, traditional for etching, is performed, then the varnish is washed off, the resulting form is filled with paint and prints are made.

The main features of the soft varnish technique:

the image retains the texture of the paper with which it was created;
When examining the image, it is easy to notice dots of different shapes partially connected to each other.

D. Castiglione. Portrait of a man in a beret. Soft varnish. 1664

Engraving examples

Engraving on different objects has its own characteristics. Let's look at a few product examples.

Engraving on wedding rings

Usually they are engraved with words and inscriptions, but it is important that it is easy to read. But for this you need a suitable size of the product, because it will not be possible to apply such an inscription on a ring that is too narrow

Engraving can be applied to the front, inner side of the ring and its side edges.

Engraving in production

It is usually used in the manufacture of nameplates, plates, serial numbers, license plates and many other products.

But most importantly, do not forget that when producing industrial nameplates you must comply with the requirements established by law. Using markings, information about the product and manufacturer is applied to the nameplate. It includes technical characteristics of the device, manufacturer data, Rostest data, device serial number and a description of safety when working with the item.

The inscriptions are very thin and clear, so the nameplate itself is small. In addition, when applying inscriptions to a nameplate, their durability is important, so production uses exclusively laser marking methods. And thanks to the high speed of work, their production has no restrictions on circulation.

#114 Wood cutters from a feather drill

How to make wood cutters from a feather drill

(The photo shows the upper chisel made of bearing steel from the USSR HF set, placed specifically for comparison)

If you are thinking about making chisels for wood carving with your own hands, then you already know that it is now difficult to find good metal. These tips from Evgeny Korotin are for those who find it difficult to buy a real imported set of cutters because of its cost. The author always made the tool himself, you won’t believe it, but even from a bayonet shovel. Moreover, the latter has been working for many years.

This photo shows chisels made from feather wood drill bits with an SDS+ shank (RIGHT) for working with a rotary hammer or a SPARKY jackhammer for large sculptures.

About the choice of drills: Feather drills from 6 mm are now on sale. up to 55 mm. it turns out - practically take anything and make a cutter. And the author has a whole set made this way, plus a couple of jambs.

For forging, you can heat it in the flame of a gas stove with the flame divider removed, and then give it the desired shape.

About forging tools

Here is a photo of a homemade matrix that Evgeniy uses to make chisels from feather drills. It is made from a piece of rail.

The author's matrix was milled at the factory according to his sketches. The work took an hour and a half, there was such an opportunity.

Also for forging you need a hammer with a ball-shaped striker. Evgeniy made the hammer himself using a grinder.

How to forge a graver

Beginner engravers make do with purchased gravers or repurposed files. Mature craftsmen often feel the need for a reliable forged chisel.

Making a forged graver yourself requires intermediate level blacksmithing skills. Instructions on how to make a gravel using the hot forging method are given below.

Forging is divided into the following main stages:

forging workpieces;
hardening;
final processing and finishing.

During forging, it is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature of the part. It is determined by a pyrometer or the traditional method - by the color of the glow. At the beginning of the process, the part should be light yellow, in the last operations it should be light red.

A well-heated workpiece must be grabbed from the forge with pliers and placed on the anvil. Light, frequent blows knock off the scale. To obtain a rectangle, the cross-broaching technique is used. To form a triangular shape of a part, it is pulled longitudinally on the edge of the anvil, turning it at the required angle. A similar technique is used for broaching for a trapezoidal section shape.

In a more complex way, the blacksmith achieves a diamond-shaped section. First, the tip is pulled in one direction, then the product is turned over and pulled in the opposite direction. In this case, part of the part will have to be cut off.

The next operation is broaching the tail part of the cutter. it must be additionally calcined and stretched until a pyramidal tail is formed.

You can move on to the next stage - hardening. Hardening of carbon alloys is carried out in the following sequence:

heat the product to 805 ±15 °C;
quickly immerse in cold water;
check the degree of hardening with a file: if it slides over the metal without forming chips, then the required hardness has been achieved;
When chips form, quenching should be repeated.

And the final stage is machining. The grinder is given its final shape on the abrasive wheel. Here the blade is sharpened to the required sharpness. The final finishing is done on a fine-grained wheel.

Is it possible to do engraving at home?

If we are talking about mechanical or manual engraving, then, of course, yes. It is enough to purchase only cutters and a drill.

But if you are planning to engage in laser engraving, then it is worth considering that the equipment for it is much more expensive, so it will only pay off if the craft becomes your business. Of course, for mass production it is better to allocate a special room, at least for safety reasons. After all, to work on laser equipment you will need voltage stabilization and grounding.

But we have several clients who use fiber markers at home for small production. Desktop markers with small dimensions are suitable for this.

How to make air guns with your own hands - plumbing rifles and pistols

Dear readers! The article was published a long time ago and was written for specific videos in the “humor” category. Over time, many creators have chosen to delete their videos from .

Nothing can be done about this, and there is no point in rewriting the article from scratch. So I leave the corresponding inserts in place of the removed rollers.

For history, many of the carved samples were quite interesting for the manufacturing history.

All owners of pneumatics sooner or later have a desire to tune their favorite - increase power, accuracy, make a beautiful body kit. The extreme form of such an activity turns into a desire to create something of one’s own. We will talk further about how they make pneumatic weapons with their own hands in Rus'.

The original idea of the article was far removed from the current content; drawings, diagrams, manuals, the best original works, etc. were planned.

Expected

But after viewing the available information on YouTube, the worldview on this problem has changed; what happens next can contribute to causing nervous paralysis and the wildest criticism.

So it’s better for the faint of heart to look for something else. And yes... there will be a lot of videos so that you can experience the same thing that I did.

But first, a little educational program on this Wednesday, so that the hearts of seasoned pneumatic pipes certainly don’t skip a beat.

Operating principle

A slight evolution of weapons from our childhood.

Surely everyone reading this has thrown a stone at someone at least once in their life? Surely almost everyone had a couple of dozen slingshots? And who made a crossbow with elastic bands and a clothespin? Has anyone used inflated bottles among throwing weapons? Now, if the memory begins to recover, then we continue.

Since homemade pneumatic weapons in our country today are not shown by high masters of this business, the main principles of creating them are simpler and cheaper. Therefore, the basic principles of operation of such weapons:

rubber(!!!)-piston pneumatics - based on “syringes” and rubber bands
PCP – no matter how cool it sounds, based on a plastic bottle and a bicycle pump

It is these two classes that describe the entire model range of inexpensive homemade pneumatics on the Internet. There are also options with flammable liquids... but this is another level.

General technology

Carrying out engraving processes involves many types of techniques. The main methods are manual and mechanical, the latter is divided into the categories of defensive and line.

A three-dimensional design can be obtained by using defense engraving; deeper processing involves three-dimensional engraving.
When performing surface actions, the line technique is used. The process is carried out in several steps, the lines of the processing contour are drawn, and part of the metal is removed from the surface using dashed movements.

Carrying out incisive engraving yourself is done with a graver. A special tool can be purchased at art stores. Accessories for the manual process are divided into types:

Messer - a graver is necessary for making fine lines.
Engraving with parallel lines is done with a pen marker.

Tools for metal engraving cannot be used without high-quality sharpening of the gravel. For high-quality work, you need to sharpen the tool with a fine-grained whetstone, and then wipe it with a leather cloth.

When working with small objects, you will need a special pillow. You can make this tool with your own hands; material of the same size is connected with a thread along the edges. It is necessary to leave an intermediate space for filling with bulk material or sand. The workpiece is turned inside out, sand is poured into the hole formed, after which the rest of the pillow is sewn up with a stitch.

Using the tool will require careful handling and preliminary skills. You need to use the tool like a regular pen when writing, holding the tool to the side with the thumb of your working hand.

It is possible to apply a design to metal using laser engraving. A unique piece can be used as a gift or as a signature fitting. Changes in design and inscriptions on metal products are available using technology such as laser engraving.

The essence of the technology, how it is done, features, advantages

Laser engraving technology uses radiation in which the diameter of the focused beam and its power are regulated. By setting these parameters, you can not only cut the material, but also influence only the surface layer of the object being processed. The image is applied in two ways.

The upper part of the surface is heated to the point of melting. During the transition from one state to another, physical and chemical processes occur in the material that change its structure. One of the associated effects is a change in surface color after crystallization. The contrast between the appearance of the surface treated and untreated by the laser beam creates an image on the object.
This method involves changing the surface topography. Part of the surface layer is heated to a temperature at which the molten material is burned out through the evaporation process. The power of the beam can be used to regulate the depth of the part of the surface being photographed, thereby changing the relief of the image.

Laser engraving on metal The main advantages of laser technology over other types of engraving:

Almost any material can be laser engraved;
any, even the smallest, images are made with a clear, clearly visible outline;
The images look very attractive from a design point of view;
Due to the lack of direct mechanical contact with the cutting tool, the processed object is not subject to deformation and there is no need to secure it;
When laser engraving, the material is thermally treated, which makes it resistant to abrasion, the image has an aesthetic appearance for a long time.
the image takes on its final form immediately after laser engraving; there is no need for subsequent refinement.

Laser engraving easily adapts to automatic control. Working according to the program algorithm eliminates the possibility of subjective errors. When engraving by hand, the human factor does not eliminate the risk of making a mistake.

The image is applied according to control programs and is carried out using two methods - raster and vector.

With the raster method, the laser head moves discretely in one direction of the engraving area, and then moves down/up/down in the smallest possible increments. By sequentially processing the surface with such points, we obtain the required image. In this way, images such as photographs and pictures are engraved.
With the vector method, the laser moves along the direction of certain lines. This method is usually used to engrave inscriptions and other images in the form of lines. This method is much more productive than the raster method, but if you need to change the thickness of the lines, you cannot do without raster engraving.

Interesting: Laser cutting of aluminum, stainless steel, sheet metal and products

Application: logo application and more

Engraving fonts on aluminum. The property of laser engraving to preserve the appearance in its original form for a long time is used to apply logos to objects, where it becomes one with them. Some commonly used use cases:

logos on souvenirs and gifts (pens, lighters, mobile phones, diaries and others);
in jewelry, laser engraving is applied to products made of precious metals: bracelets, watches, rings, rings and others;
applying inscriptions and images to various sports and other awards;
some industrial manufacturers identify their products with logos made using laser technology;
technical information is applied to the housings and instrument panels to make it easier for the user to operate them;
production of seals and stamps using laser engraving;
applying duplicate marks in Russian on keys and buttons of foreign-made equipment.

The technical capabilities of laser engraving raise the possibilities of advertising business to a higher level

In an overabundance of advertising products, the consumer will definitely pay attention to the originality of posters and signs, on which information is given in a clear, highly detailed image

Logo engraving on a metal keychain

Engraving of text and images on the plate

Engraving text on a metal plate

General technology

The technique can be manual or mechanical (various equipment is used).

It is also divided into line and armor:

Incisive engraving is performed with a special tool – a graver.

If you ask yourself how to make it yourself and where to buy these tools, then the answer is simple: this tool is sold in the same stores where you can find various art supplies.

The finest lines are made with a Messer-Stichel. If you need to make parallel lines, they are made with a rap pen.

The graver is brought “to readiness” with a leather product (you can take an old belt) coated with chromium oxide.

The cushion engraving tool is ready.

How to properly hold the instrument in your hand?

Work must be done on your own.

In the case when you need to change the direction of the pattern, unfold the pillow with the object on which the element is being applied, but do not change the direction of movement of the hand.

What else is useful to know about incisors?

To do your own engraving at home, it is advisable to first practice so that the carving turns out beautiful in the end.

It is better to purchase a set of tools: it is better to apply rounded lines with a square section of cutters, and it is better to make straight lines with a round section.

You can make the scraper yourself. To do this, you will need a file, from the edges of which you need to grind off the notch.

Making a gravel with your own hands

We select the most suitable fragments and cut them into one size with a Dremel

65-70mm (depending on the hand, I have 68mm). We clamp the tube into a drill and cut it with the edge of a file to a size of 15mm.

Cover the bottom of the tubes with transparent tape,

Fill half the height of the tube with epoxy mixed with wood dust. We insert the “stubs” of the needle file all the way.

As soon as the glue sets, trying not to block the geometry of the file, carefully remove the notch with a Dremel.

Further fine-tuning is carried out by hand on a block, again trying to preserve the overall geometry as much as possible.

Almost finished tool

Pneumostihel Sergei Valtman

and so, I played with these tubes and motors, gradually began to understand for myself what weight of pistons for what work, which compressor is better to take, the engine.

Well, there was an ambush with the turners, but my hands were itching terribly, I bought a lathe and started making my own version from a stainless tube. Based on my considerations, I chose the size of the tool holder and the intermediate impact element, to match the rubber bands that are available in the auto store, sat down and drew on graph paper, and this is the first option I got

The drawings were drawn by Rumen Radkov

Oleg has already posted the details on the forum. The pistons are only now different with fluoroplastic jackets

Of course, I ruined a couple of blanks, but then I got what I needed, well, of course, I sanded the .. raw .. stainless steel and carbonitrated the cylinder tube and lock nut, in the composition that I wrote about at the beginning, after two hours, the result was a beautiful black part like a weapon , with surface hardness, the file slides. Then I used felt and polishing paste to just add gloss and that’s it!

Color engraving

To make the drawing look more clear and beautiful, use a glass pencil or ink.

In order for the effect of using these tools to remain as long as possible, the surface is coated with colorless varnish.

You can make the drawing clearer using a needle and oil paints. This set allows you to scratch auxiliary lines of the pattern, which are subsequently covered with paint.

Artistic color engraving allows you to make the product colorful. To do this, those elements that do not need to be painted are coated with transparent varnish.

Video:

How to blacken a metal object? Special equipment is not used for this, but the following substances are required: sulfur and potash (potassium carbonate) in a ratio of 1:2.

This composition must be put on fire; to do this, it is poured into a tin can. The mixture must be constantly stirred, and the fire should not be high.

The mixture is removed from the heat when it turns black. Before this, it will need to be ground in a mortar; after the fire, it is also placed in a mortar and ground again (cooled).

Blackening occurs as follows:

Water is added to the resulting mixture (1:9);
A brass object is placed in the solution;
It is heated until the product acquires the desired shade.

You can make the background dark before applying the drawing. In this case, varnish is not needed.

You can make an object brown with your own hands by keeping it in a solution of zinc chloride and copper sulfate with the addition of water (100g, 100g, 200g, respectively).

Hand painting in steel gray color is obtained from 1 liter of water, two grams of ordinary salt and two grams of a mixture of sulfur and potash.

The orange-red color is obtained from a solution of potassium sulphide: 1 gram of the substance per 250 grams of water.

Upon completion of work, the varnish is erased.

The blackening of an object and the blackness we know are two different things. The technique used to create niello is mechanical; it cannot be done with your own hands.

Dry needle

Drypoint engraving is so called because it occurs without coating the surface of the plate with varnish and without etching (chemical engraving techniques are presented below).

For this technology, needles of different sizes, a scraper and a smoother are used. First, the metal plate is prepared for work: it is ground, polished, and the edges and corners are processed. Then the desired design is applied to the plate using a graphite pencil or a thin needle and the engraving process begins.

Drawing an image using a needle.

The nature of the final image depends on the type of needle chosen and the degree of pressure on the instrument. If the master presses the needle weakly, then a line with clean edges is obtained; with strong pressure, the edges of the lines become torn with notches and burrs (barbs) rising upward. During printing, the ink fills these recesses and accumulates at the barb, resulting in a very rich and velvety image.

The nature of the line with high pressure on the needle.

Drypoint engraving can be distinguished by the following characteristics:

the lines have sharp ends (often in the form of hooks);
Velvety sagging of paint may appear on the strokes if the barbs were not erased due to numerous prints or were not removed forcibly;
angular and straight lines predominate.

S. Maslovsky. Portrait of the artist's wife. Dry needle. 1905

Engraving with a graver on metal surfaces

Sticky engraving on metal requires the engraver to have a faithful eye, a steady hand and artistic taste, but above all, patience and perseverance. It is also necessary to decide on the material for the blanks. Copper and brass are more suitable for a novice craftsman. More experienced engravers work on other non-ferrous metals and soft steel alloys, using specific engraving methods and improved tools.

All that is needed for engraving tools and equipment is a work table and a set of gravers. At the first stage of mastering hand engraving technology, it is recommended to achieve stable quality of straight and curved strokes. When they begin to turn out confidently, you can move on to more complex elements of the image.

Before starting to engrave the workpiece, the master traditionally checks the sharpness of the sharpening pen by running it along the tip of the nail. If the strip can be cut without effort or pressure, the sharpness is sufficient. The handle is clamped in the working hand, the thumb and index fingers cover the incisor 10-20 mm from the tip.

The blade is pressed against the surface of the workpiece at an angle of 35-45°, then the angle is sharply reduced to 5-10°, while a piece of metal is cut out of the workpiece and a stroke is formed. For beginners, it is not recommended to limit their length to 3-4 mm. As you gain experience, you will begin to get longer ones.

Metal etching pen for do-it-yourself engraving – Turner

18.12.2019
Coins, breast medals and anniversary medals, stones and some jewelry, metal utensils and weapons decorated with patterns - this is not a complete list of engraving and medal-making art, which we encounter quite often.

Engraving is the oldest method of processing material by cutting. Particles of material are removed from stone, bone, wood or metal with a cutter, and an image appears on the surface.

From the very beginning, two main divisions emerged in the nature of carving - planar engraving and relief armor. The first means that the image is made with in-depth lines on a plane. The second is convex carving; in the old days in Rus' it was called “obron”, or “defense work”. This name comes from the word “rob” (remove) the background.

Engraving has a long history. Already in the Stone Age, primitive man, using flint chisels, decorated hunting tools and household items with ornaments and designs, carved images of animals on stubborn stone tiles, pieces of bone and horn, and on the walls of caves.

In later eras of history, hand cutting gave rise to glyptics - the art of carving on precious and semi-precious stones; the cutter also gave rise to the coin production of Ancient Greece and Rome.

The art of cutting reached its highest development in the 15th century during the Italian Renaissance, giving the world the fine art of medals.

Hand cutting, or, as it is now more often called, artistic engraving, is a technically quite complex form of art. But as complex as it is, it is equally attractive.

The art of engraving and medallion was a favorite hobby not only of many painters and sculptors, but also of people of very distant professions (even one of the Russian queens chose medallary carving as her handicraft).

By the way, at the art and graphic department of the Nizhny Tagil Pedagogical Institute, both boys and girls are engaged in engraving and medal art with equal success.

Here we will talk about some of the secrets of engraving craftsmanship. Our story is addressed to amateur artists, those who are attracted to working with metal. It should only be noted that those who already know how to use metalworking tools and who are familiar with working on metalworking machines will achieve quick success.

The creation of some objects is impossible, for example, without the use of drilling and lathes, without the ability to cut threads or, say, solder. In engraving, more than anywhere else, the success of the work and its labor intensity depend on the impeccable preparation of the tool and on knowledge of the laws of manual cutting.

Therefore, it is these moments that the article will place the greatest emphasis on.

First of all, a few words about the workplace. You can cut at any table, as long as it is strong enough. It is very important to choose the right lighting: soft light - natural or artificial - should fall from the front. Harsh light reflected from metal quickly tires your eyesight, and deep black shadows on the relief interfere with your work.

The engraver's main tool is a graver - a steel cutter mounted on a wooden mushroom-shaped handle. Depending on the purpose, the gravers differ in cross-sectional shape and width. For planar and volumetric engraving, four types are mainly required: spitztikhel, messerstikhel, flyshtikhel and bolshtikhel.

At first, to practice planar engraving, it is enough to make two Spitzstichels and one Messerstichel.

The main types of shtikhel (from left to right): spitstikhel, messerstikhel, flyshtikhel, bolshtikhel.

Spitzstichel
is the most popular cutter, used when performing any engraving work: for applying drawings and ornaments, for engraving fonts and monograms, for performing all kinds of markings and erasures.
Messerstichel
- narrow, knife-shaped, used for engraving thin and deep lines, for conveying tonal relationships in drawings, necessary when performing particularly small and precise work.

For volumetric engraving, it is necessary to make several flat (flyakh) and semicircular (bol) gravers, as well as special chisels, repeating the shape, but in an enlarged form, of hand chisels.

Flyachshtihel

- a cutter with a flat cutting edge ranging from tenths to several millimeters in width.

Bolshtikhel

- a semicircular cutter with a rounding radius of the cutting edge of various sizes depending on the work being performed.

Stichels of this type are used both for “picking off” the background (for example, in decorative dishes) and for “sculpting” the form in medal bas-relief compositions.

For convenience, a small brass plate is placed under the medal stylus, which allows the stylus to be used like a lever.

To facilitate and speed up the removal of large amounts of metal, chisels are used.

If individual small elements of the composition are difficult to cut to the required depth with burrs and chisels, shaped punches are used. They are hit with a hammer and the metal is deposited.

Punches, like gravers, are made of tool steel and subjected to heat treatment. The most popular punches have a square cross-section of 6X6 mm and a length of about 75 mm. Depending on the purpose, the punch striker is given the appropriate shape.

Metal for engraving

Plates for the first works can be prepared from sheet brass, copper, cupronickel. Their size should not be too large, something 60X100 mm, thickness from 0.8 to 3 mm.

The aligned plates are attached to slightly larger wooden blocks - this will make it more convenient to work. They are stuffed with nails or placed on molten sealing wax.

(The holes for the nails are countersunk so that the heads do not protrude above the surface.) The plates are sanded with medium-grain sandpaper and oil and wiped thoroughly.

Before applying a pencil or transfer drawing, the metal surface is covered with a thin layer of white watercolor, tempera or gouache.

First cutter test

Initial work should, of course, not be too complicated. And yet, from the first steps you need to learn to cut not only straight lines, but also curves and circles. Taking this wish into account, suitable drawings are selected. It’s easier to start, perhaps, with ornaments containing curls, rosettes, and circles.

Drawings or ornamental compositions, previously worked out on paper, are transferred to a primed metal surface. This must be done using carbon paper. Then the contours of the design are cut with a thin spitztie.

First, they take on small circles, changing the direction of movement of the cutter (clockwise and counterclockwise) with the transition to each new circle.

Engraving curved lines allows you to practice a whole range of professional movements: the right hand moves the graver forward, the left hand holds and turns the plate towards the cutter, the thumb of the right hand directs the movement of the cutter.

The shtikhel is taken in the right hand so that its handle rests against the palm, and the thumb and forefinger firmly grasp the incisor 15-20 mm from the toe. The remaining fingers support the blade and the handle of the graver from the side and slightly below. There is no need to clamp the cutter with a death grip.

It is held tenaciously, but sensitively, trying to feel with the brush the slightest changes in the position of the cutter as you follow the patterns. You need to be especially sensitive to the movement of the cutter as it emerges from the metal to the surface. At first, there is no need to try to keep the shtikhel from breaking at any cost.

The first and main task of a beginning carver is to learn to understand and feel the metal through the cutter. Taking into account the above wishes, we will begin the first practical lesson. Conveniently placing your elbows on the tabletop, use the index and middle fingers of your left hand to hold the block with the metal plate.

We position the fingers so that the thumb of the right hand rests on the tip of the index finger of the left, and the toe of the stichel passes between the spaced fingers. This technique helps the novice engraver keep the graver from slipping, and in case the cutter breaks, we protect the hand from injury.

We insert the graver to the required depth into the metal at an angle of approximately 40° to the plane, and quickly lowering the handle down to an angle of 5-10° (up to the separation angle), we begin engraving. To prevent the hand from getting tired and control over the cutter not being lost, strokes no more than 3 mm long are first cut in one go. Periodically you need to warm up your fingers and check the sharpness of the cutter.

Having mastered carving techniques to a certain extent, you can try to create something by decorating it with engraving. To begin with, for example, make a plate or ashtray from brass or copper.

The composition of the drawing can be borrowed from books or, which is of course better, but more difficult, done independently, by sketching, for example, some local attractions.

When developing your own compositions, you can also build on related arts - birch bark carving, Khokhloma painting, and take monuments of ancient decorative and applied art as a basis.

The pattern is engraved first on a flat plate, and the shape of a plate with curved edges is given later, after engraving is completed. The round plate is repeatedly tapped around the perimeter with gentle blows of a mallet on a wooden “block” (a birch block with rounded edges).

Even a simple utilitarian shape and simple pattern can be very interesting thanks to the rich decorative properties of metal. If the beauty of the metal is emphasized by additional processing, for example, polishing, chemical tinting, bluing and other techniques unique to metal, then the impression will be even stronger.

Making gravers

The graver, like all engraving tools, is usually made from carbon tool steels such as U8, U10, U12. Stickers made of alloy steel grades HVG, HV5, although they hold an edge better, are inferior to cutters made of carbon steel in the clarity of the stroke when engraving handwritten fonts and glossy monograms.

The production of gravers begins with filing steel rectangular blanks with a length of 90-100, a width of 9-10 and a thickness of 2-3 mm. They are given a shape that resembles a wedge in cross section. During final processing, the wedge-forming side edges of the Spitztichels are made slightly convex, and the Messerstichels are made flat.

When making a graver, the following mandatory conditions must be observed: 1) the cross-section of the cutter must be the same along its entire length; 2) the lower edge of the cutter should be straight or with a slight smooth external rounding from the middle of the blade to the toe; 3) the cutting edge, semicircular in cross-section, must have a constant width or a slight expansion towards the cutting edge.

A bevel is made on top of an unheated gravel (then after hardening it will be easier to sharpen the polished section on a mechanical sharpener), and on the opposite side a flat tongue is filed for attaching the handle. Finished cutters should not be polished: shiny metal glare irritates the eyes and polished gravers are inconvenient to use and slip out of your fingers. The next operation is hardening.

General description of technology

Artistic engraving today is very popular not only when decorating gift items, but also in the process of processing everyday metal products.

The result obtained mainly depends on the equipment used and the skill of the person

In addition, the quality of the material itself is quite important. If it cannot boast of durability, then the final engraving result may not be very attractive.

Metal engraving can be done using many technologies. Among the main methods are manual and mechanical engraving, which can also be defensive and line engraving.

If the task is to make a three-dimensional image, then this can be accomplished using defense engraving. If it is necessary to do three-dimensional processing, the best solution will be the deepest possible finishing.

As for the line art technique, it is usually used for surface work. All this is done in a couple of steps. Before starting work, it is imperative to draw the contours of the image, as well as remove some of the metal from the surface to be treated.

Carrying out incisive engraving on your own is done using a graver. This unit can be found in almost any art store. Among the main devices for such metal processing are the following:

Messerstihel, which is indispensable for making fine lines;
repstikhel, considered the ideal solution for creating parallel contours.

In order for engraving to be carried out at a high level and the result to be acceptable, it is necessary to use a good sharpening for the gravel.

To work with small objects at the highest quality level, you need to use a special pillow, which is not difficult to make with your own hands. To do this, you will need to find material of the same size and connect it using a special thread. It is imperative to leave space in order to fill it with bulk material, such as sand. When using, the workpiece should be turned inside out to make it easier to use.

The use of engraving tools requires careful handling and preliminary skills. Otherwise, you can not only spoil the material, but also harm yourself.

Chisels

Let's call a chisel a fairly common tool. The best offer is considered to be the products of the Kirschen Studia company, but any modification costs no less than 1000 rubles. There are many different types of wood carving chisels. The classification is carried out as follows:

Direct.
Angular with V-shaped profile.
Reverse with a convex working part.
Curved.

Chisels for wood carving

A chisel for carving wood of low density can be made from inexpensive materials. If desired, you can purchase budget options from Japanese manufacturers. It is worth considering that models with a short working part are intended for manual work and are not easier to operate. Options with a longer working part are intended for impact work.

Saws can be used to work with solid wood

There are a variety of options for this instrument; when choosing, attention is paid to the following points:

Tooth size.
Length of the working part.
Handle type and comfort.
What metal is the working part made of?

Wood carving with a chainsaw

When considering a similar tool for cutting wood, it is worth considering that most are designed to change the length of the workpiece.

To improve the quality of the resulting end surface, you can use saws with a fine and frequent tooth arrangement.

Purpose of the graver

For engraving, the master needs a set of metal stamps of different shapes to engrave various elements of the image. The most common are:

Spitz is a wedge-shaped cutter with a slope of 30 to 40°, used to design the outline of an image and clear elements of great depth;
Messer - resembles a knife, the wedge slope is from 15 to 30°, it is used to make fine details;
flah - similar to a chisel blade 0.15-6 mm wide, used to select depressions in the design;
bol - a rounded point with a radius of 0.2-0.6 mm; with its help, semicircular depressions are selected, from which text elements of the design are formed;
hornbeam - diamond-shaped section, large elements on concave elements are chosen with it;
facet - a trapezoidal section with a blade sharpening angle from 50 to 115°, used for forming images of high complexity;
Shatir - the blade has a serrated shape with a distance between the teeth from 0.1 to 0.5 mm, it is used to obtain several parallel strokes.

Stichels for carving metal of other shapes are rarely used for restoration work and when making particularly complex images.

Engraving at home. Methods

The general technology for applying a pattern to a metal surface was presented above.

Engraving on metal at home can be done with any sharp object. Let's consider several ways.

Application is carried out using a special device

To create a high-quality drawing, it is better to use a tool called an engraver. You can purchase a whole set for creating lines of different thicknesses (see photo).

Photo:

Drawings on the surface of an object must be done using the following technology:

You can make a pattern on an object yourself using a pencil or marker, or you can use a copy sheet;
The next step is to apply the design with an engraver to the surface of the object. The cutters should be moved in one direction in good lighting;
The resulting result is fixed with a thin layer of wax or colorless varnish.

Drawing using a set of materials at hand

What does the set include:

nail polish;
toothpick (match);
salt;
phone charger;
glass and nail polish remover.

The price of such a set is minimal; no cutters are needed.

The item is coated with a thick layer of varnish. Use a toothpick (match) to scratch the pattern. You need to put 2 tbsp in a glass. l. salt, add water and stir.

Charging from the phone is applied to the object with a plus, and with a minus - to any second metal object.

This should be done for five minutes (a little less, depending on the desired etching depth). Upon completion of work, it is necessary to wipe off the varnish.

This method is good because it does not use cutters, paste or other tools, only what is at hand and the price will be low. Thus, at home you can make personalized spoons, forks, decorative sets, etc., all with your own hands.

Photo:

Engraving can be done with a drill

This instrument works on the same principle as the machine in the dentist's office.

The price of the device is about 5,000 rubles, so the machine is purchased when the products are planned to be made more than once.

In addition to the device itself, you need to purchase a set of attachments; the average price of one attachment is about 50 rubles.

Photo:

It should be noted that to operate a metal drill with your own hands, you need a milling set, and its price is also impressive.

The tool and machine are first tested to achieve good results.

How to make an engraver with your own hands - Metals, equipment, instructions

Applying a pattern to various objects by removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.

Transferring a complex image to metal

The original method of transferring an image to a metal base is carried out in the following sequence:

Varnish is applied to the surface of the metal being processed.
Using a soft graphite pencil, an image is drawn on a polyester film that will be engraved on the workpiece.
The drawing is covered with tape, pressed over the entire area to the film and carefully removed from it. In this case, the image drawn earlier will remain on the sticky surface of the tape.
When the varnish dries, the tape is attached to the metal surface, smoothed with a roller or other soft object, and then removed.

After correctly performing the described steps, a pattern will remain on the product, which can be used for engraving.

Other engraving methods

In addition to the manual engraving method at home, the following methods can be used to change the relief of a metal surface:

Chemical engraving is a method that can be easily done at home, even with regular table salt and a phone charger.
Using a drill is a great method for home use. The principle of metal removal by this method is similar to manual engraving, but instead of a sercie, a drill or similar device with a rotating thin drill is used.
Laser engraving is the most advanced way of applying a design to a metal surface, but equipment for this type of work will be too expensive. The use of this engraving method is justified only when the hobby of drawing designs on metal becomes a profession and brings in a constant income.

Conclusion

How to make engraving on metal and which method to master to perform this type of work, everyone must decide for themselves. To begin with, it is recommended to purchase a professional tool for manual work. After working with hand tools for some time, you can move on to mastering the equipment, which will significantly speed up the engraving process.

It is recommended to purchase metal engraving tools only in specialized stores. When making your own gravers, you should pay attention to the cutting surface of the tool, which must be perfectly sharpened.

A gravel that is not sharp enough and has knocked down corners will not allow you to remove the metal correctly. When working with the tool, you must also be careful, otherwise you can seriously injure yourself.

If such a nuisance has already occurred, then the wound should be disinfected and bandaged.

By taking precautions and using high-quality tools, you can create real handmade masterpieces at home, which can be used not only for personal purposes, but can be sold at special online auctions for the sale of handmade items.

Metal engraving using various equipment

If you look into history, you can see that hand engraving on metal has been known to mankind for about five thousand years.

Above we discussed the general technology and methods by which you can do engraving yourself.

on metal is distinguished by its durability. In this case, a paste is used, which is applied to the object before processing. In this case, the paste is applied to the uncoated material.

The technology is as follows: the equipment directs a laser at an object, which, under the influence of temperature, melts a little, changes color and evaporates.

Using a laser, you can make designs of varying complexity and not only on metal. The price of laser engraved jewelry is high.

Photo:

Diamond engraving allows the product to “play” in the light due to the formation of tetrahedral pits.

Diamond engraving is performed using a special cutter, which removes the top layer of metal, forming those very pits.

Diamond engraving is considered durable and is widely used in jewelry and souvenirs. The price for such products is not fixed; most often, it is negotiated individually.

Photo:

You can apply a design to metal using a milling engraving machine, which you can not only buy, but also make yourself.

Milling in the form of such a machine is necessary in the case of small-scale production (your own business). Otherwise, it will be unnecessary expenses. The machine allows you to make an accurate drawing due to the rigidity of the entire structure.

In addition to metal, the engraving machine allows you to process wood, glass, MDF and other materials.

If we talk about small production, then such a machine will be simply irreplaceable; it is easy to use, the cutters move quickly and accurately. The human factor is excluded.

Engraving using this machine is accurate and durable.

Features of engraving on wedding rings

Since ancient times, a distinctive feature of wedding rings has been engraving. The approach to the inscription or drawing occurs individually, according to the customer’s preferences. The most common methods are the recessed or grooved method. The most common work is done by hand on jewelry. Jewelers offer many options for writing text, as well as display methods. The complexity of the work is assessed individually with each customer.

Engraving on wedding rings

Laser engraving is also a common method. The beam burns out the top layer of metal and seals it with varnish.

It is important to remember that adjusting the size of a finished product is almost impossible; it is necessary to determine in advance the size and type of product