Do-it-yourself workbench for the garage: a guide to assembling it at home

A workbench is an indispensable tool for a garage or workshop. This is not just a table on which additional elements are placed. When properly manufactured according to pre-thought-out drawings, it can become an excellent assistant, allowing you to speed up the execution of various works with wood. Let's look at how to make a workbench with your own hands at minimal cost, taking into account the features of the workshop and the amount of free space in it.

Instructions for making a workbench

Since everyone makes a table “for themselves,” it is inappropriate to present exact methods in the article. But the general algorithm for different designs is the same.

After all the preparation and production of drawings, we begin welding our future workbench.

Metal

You can start by making the countertop.

  1. Make a wooden shield 4–6 cm thick. It is needed to absorb shock and ensure silence during work. First, dry the wood, and then saturate it with products against rot and bark beetles.
  2. If desired, attach strips of thick rubber along the entire contour at the bottom.
  3. Cover the shield with a metal sheet and secure it with self-tapping screws.

After this we make the frame.

  1. Cut the rolled or round pipe into pieces of the required length. It is advisable to immediately remove burrs and round off sharp edges. The frame can be made from a corner measuring 20x20x3 mm.
  2. It would be correct if you first clean the metal from dirt and rust.
  3. Weld all the sections in the desired configuration. For strength, additional pads are welded onto the welds or spacers are made.

After installing the main elements, weld the longitudinal and transverse strips. The more there are, the better, in terms of strength.

Make drawer guides from the corner.

Secure the tabletop to the top of the workbench. This can be done by bolting or welding. In this case, it is better to first lay the tabletop and then drill the holes. Otherwise, during installation they may greatly mismatch, and they will have to be drilled again.

To work safely on the workbench, you need to use countersunk bolts. The recesses for them are made with a countersink or a large drill (they need to chamfer the bolt head).

Clean all seams. They should be neat and free of metal drops.

The basic rule is that the length and area of ​​the weld when joining parts should be greatest. To do this, you can make additional cuts or chamfers in the elements to be welded.

Add less critical details.

  • If your workbench has a shelf, you will need a sheet of plywood or chipboard for it.
  • Make tool boxes from wood or thin metal. Their size depends on your preferences. Be sure to cut or weld the handles so they can be pulled out.

Tools are secured to pegs or nails.

Next, coat the metal parts with 2 layers of primer and then paint. Treat the countertop with a rust converter.

The work process is shown more clearly in the video.

And if you need a less monumental design, you can make a workbench from wood.

Wooden

This workbench is more suitable for carpentry than for plumbing. Even the strongest wood will not withstand heavy loads, so you can make a metal frame and a wooden tabletop.

A purely wooden workbench is easier to make and will cost less. This is roughly what it looks like.

When working, pay attention to some features

  • The bars are connected with angles or screws.
  • The connection will be stronger if the bolts go through and end with a nut.
  • Don't forget to add washers.
  • The wood must be well dried. Working with raw materials is not allowed.
  • All parts of such a workbench must be coated with an antibacterial composition and a remedy for bark beetles.

Such a workbench can be foldable (but the strength will decrease even more)

In this case, you need to pay special attention to the hinges

  1. Drill a hole in the pieces larger than the fastening bolt.
  2. Insert a metal tube into it. Its ends should protrude 1–2 mm.
  3. It is advisable to place a steel washer between the wooden planks.
  4. Then connect these elements with a bolt. Place wide washers under the bolt and nut.
  5. Screw on the locknut or secure the detachable connection in another way.

Here are the options for such machines.

Do not forget that wooden structures require maintenance. They should not be exposed to machine oil, solvents or other aggressive substances. Yes, and you need to periodically check that the nuts are not loose. Metal workbenches do not require such care.

After assembly, we begin arranging our new workbench.

Metal or wooden frame

As already noted, a wooden frame has an advantage over its counterpart in the form of lower cost, weight and better absorption of inertia. This is also partly due to the fact that wood is less ductile.

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  • PPU shell for pipes or PPS

To be more precise, it is not plastic at all. And such a property can be designated as a separate advantage.

How to make a workbench with your own hands

Workbenches come in different designs. Therefore, we will consider several options for such a table and the stages of its manufacture.

Made of wood

First you need to prepare tools and materials:

  • wood hacksaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • square;
  • level;
  • fasteners;
  • keys;
  • timber 100*100 mm;
  • board 30-40 mm;
  • plywood 30 mm.

Step by step guide:

  1. According to the drawing, boards are cut to make the lower frame, which will be used for tools. The lumber is connected to each other using self-tapping screws or metal corners.
  2. The upper frame is assembled in the same way.
  3. Support legs are cut from timber and fixed to the table frame using a bolted connection. To do this, holes are pre-drilled in the frame. Depending on the size of the workbench, the number of legs can be from 6 to 8.
  4. To make the structure rigid, a shelf is made at the bottom of the table. It can be attached either to the lower frame or to additional strips that are fixed at the bottom of each leg. Chipboard or plywood can be used as material for the shelf.
  5. Having completed the assembly of the frame, proceed to the tabletop. It is best to make it from 50 mm boards. The boards are cut to size and secured to the frame with self-tapping screws.

To increase the storage system, you can attach an OSB or metal shield to the back of the workbench. To do this, holes are drilled in the legs and the selected material is attached to them with screws or bolts. Hooks of any kind are fixed to the shield, on which the tool is hung.

With metal frame

Thanks to the iron frame, such a workbench will be durable and reliable. The materials we will need are:

  • profile pipe 50*50 mm;
  • corner 40*40 mm;
  • metal sheet 2 mm;
  • plywood;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • dye.

Tools:

  • Bulgarian;
  • welding machine;
  • drill;
  • roulette;
  • wood hacksaw;
  • jigsaw;
  • brush;
  • sandpaper;
  • ruler;
  • level.

To design the workbench, the following drawing was taken as a basis.

Let's figure out how to weld a metal desktop frame:

  1. According to the drawing, we cut blanks from the profile pipe and weld them using a welding machine. Thus, we get the base of the workbench.
  2. We clean the weld seams well with a grinder.
  3. We weld corners to the back of the structure, which will serve as the basis for attaching the panel for tools.
  4. We weld additional elements from corrugated pipe to strengthen the frame.
  5. To place and fix the wooden tabletop, we assemble a frame from a corner.
  6. We reinforce all joints with iron plates.
  7. We weld metal spacers in the corners. Since shock loads and vibrations will be placed on the table, it is worth taking these nuances into account in advance.
  8. To make it convenient to store small tools, fasteners, etc. in the table, we make plywood boxes.
  9. We attach furniture guides to the sides of the drawers.
  10. We make a slide under each drawer in the table, which will make it easy to open and close them.
  11. We degrease the frame of the product and coat it with paint.
  12. For the tabletop we use a 50 mm board of the appropriate length. If boards of the required size cannot be found, they can be placed across the table. We lay the lumber in a frame of corners.
  13. The wooden tabletop will bear part of the load during operation.
  14. We sand the wooden surface with a grinder with a sandpaper attachment.
  15. The table can be left as is or covered with a sheet of metal. In the second case, the boards need to be treated with an antiseptic.
  16. We cut a sheet of metal to the size of the tabletop.
  17. We coat the iron with a special anti-corrosion agent, let it dry, and then lay the metal on top of the wood.
  18. We attach handles to the front wall of each drawer.
  19. You can attach sandpaper or a vice to the finished work surface.
  20. If the tabletop remains wooden, it is better to provide holes in the boards into which wedges will be driven as stops when processing lumber.
  21. In the open part of the workbench you can install shelves for storing tools.
  22. To create a panel for tools, cut out a piece of suitable size from a sheet of plywood and cover it with an antiseptic.
  23. Using bolts and nuts, we attach the plywood to the frame of the workbench, resulting in a convenient panel on which you can place frequently used tools.
  24. You can screw self-tapping screws into the plywood or use suitable hooks to hold the tool.
  25. The finished workbench looks like this.

A workbench in a garage environment is an indispensable device. You can use it to process wood, metal, assemble any structures, and cook. The simplest options for wooden workbenches for a garage are discussed in the article, and how to make such a product with your own hands is described in detail with drawings and dimensions in photo examples with step-by-step instructions.

Installation and assembly features

The stationary and mobile model of the workbench is assembled in the same way as a regular table. Sidewalls and auxiliary guides, profiles are supplied with holes of the appropriate diameter. All parts are standard, can be easily connected and fastened together with self-tapping screws according to the diagram supplied with the product.

Attaching the folding table to the wall is carried out in 3 stages:

Checking the set of tools:

  • hammer drill (garage walls brick, concrete), drill;
  • bench punch for holes, hammer;
  • wrench (open-end) 8 mm, 10 mm;
  • keys: hexagonal (2.5 mm), tubular;
  • Phillips screwdriver, level for marking.

Preparing for work:

  • Lay the table frame on a flat surface, keeping the factory plastic ties in place until installation is complete.
  • Remove the 2 central hinges from the swing frame, unscrew and remove the bolts, nuts on both legs of the wall frame, remove it from the hinges.
  • Check the location of the outer sleeve of the anchor; the spacer collet should be turned towards the spacer nut.
  • Make marks on the wall where the wall frame will be mounted.
  • Using an 8mm drill bit, drill a hole 15mm longer than the anchor length.
  • Insert the anchor into the hole in the frame, deepen it into the wall until the end, fix the nut, leaving the frame movable.
  • Check the horizontal position of the top beam with a level, secure the frame with anchors, and drill the remaining holes for fasteners through it.
  • Insert and tighten the anchors one at a time; if there is a large gap between the anchor and the wall, use mounting spacers.
  • Install the swing frame (after releasing the 2 legs) onto the hinges of the wall frame, secure them with bolts.
  • Having raised the rotating frame to a horizontal position, put on and bolt the previously removed hinges.
  • Lower the table to the working position, install the tabletop, secure it with self-tapping screws to the rotating frame.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (metalwork) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For metalwork models, the table top must be metal, since working with metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that can leave marks on a wooden surface.

Metal workbench

Also, when processing metal parts, force and the use of sharp tools are often required, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal tabletop.

Universal workbench

Drawings and dimensions

To assemble a high-quality workbench for the garage, you must first decide on its dimensions. When drawing up a drawing, special attention should be paid to the height of the table top . The optimal option for this indicator is the distance from the elbow of a standing person to the floor.

The width should not be too large. This is due to the limited size of the garage and the need to often work when a car is parked inside the room. Space will be required for people to pass through, so the optimal width of the structure varies from 50 to 80 cm.

Assembling a workbench for the garage with your own hands

You can make a garage table with your own hands if you follow the basic recommendations. The whole process can be divided into just a few steps:

  1. The existing material is being cut. A pipe and a steel angle can be used to form a supporting structure. A garage workbench with a metal frame can withstand significant impact.
  2. In order for the mechanic’s workbench to have the required dimensions, it is necessary to change the dimensions according to the drawings.
  3. You can start work by making a power frame. To begin with, a load-bearing element is created, on which another load-bearing element is installed on top, onto which a steel sheet is fixed. You can weld a workbench yourself using a welding preparation.
  4. The load-bearing element is additionally reinforced with steel pipes. They act as stiffeners.
  5. The table for metalwork is installed on legs. This structural element is also welded to the base. The recommended length of the elements used is about 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs. They can significantly increase the rigidity and stability of the mechanism.
  6. After creating the supporting element, you can begin to create boxes in which tools and parts will be stored. A DIY garage table is made for specific tasks. The number of boxes and their sizes may vary significantly. To create this element, a steel pipe is used. The frame of the boxes is reinforced with a metal channel, which becomes stiffening ribs.
  7. The next step is to make a supporting frame that is suitable for creating a tabletop. The frame must be very strong, since it will bear a high load. Due to the use of a thick metal pipe, the workbench is durable and reliable.
  8. After creating the supporting structure, it is further strengthened. To do this, the brackets are welded to the sides. Holes are drilled in the middle of each bracket, which are used to attach the back and other walls.
  9. Boxes may have plywood walls. Due to this, the workbench becomes lighter. The sides are secured using self-tapping screws. It is recommended to create boxes of various sizes, thereby significantly expanding the functionality of the device. There are various options for the location of drawers on the Internet; the most suitable option is selected depending on your preferences.
  10. Holes are created on the inside of the structure to fix the guides along which the boxes will move.
  11. In this case, a board is used to make the table. It is placed on a previously prepared frame, where it is then fixed. Often a metal plate is placed on top of the wood planks to protect the wood from the elements.
  12. All seams should be thoroughly cleaned. A grinding machine and a file can be used for this. If there are untreated seams, there is a high risk of injury. When processing seams, problems may arise associated with the appearance of cracks and other defects.
  13. The surface of the wood used must be well sanded. This creates a flat surface that is ideal for placing the steel sheet. Wooden sheets must be fastened securely, otherwise, when a load is applied, the sheet will move or sag.
  14. Fastening the metal sheet should be done using hidden screws. This is due to the fact that welding work can cause the previously used wood to ignite. The sheet used must be painted on both sides, due to which the service life of the workbench is significantly increased.

Recently, schemes that allow you to change the height of a certain part of the structure have become very popular. The height of the workbench in the garage is selected taking into account what kind of work will be carried out.

Manufacturing process

Hardwood plywood, for example birch, with a thickness of at least 1.5 cm, may also be suitable as a base material.

Base

Making a base box involves a number of steps.

  1. Mark and cut a plywood sheet (or several sheets) according to the drawing.
  2. The base is a box with drawers. For example, its dimensions are 2x1x0.25 m. Connect the sidewalls, back wall and partitions for the boxes with the underbench (the lower wall of the supporting box).
  3. For the resulting drawer compartments, assemble the drawers - it is advisable to do this in advance. The external size of the drawers is slightly smaller than the internal dimensions of the compartments for them - this is necessary so that they slide in and out without effort. If necessary, install guide spacers. Also install handles on the drawers in advance (you can use handles for doors, cabinets, wooden windows, or others).
  4. Place the top wall on the box. This is not a tabletop yet, but a base on which it will be installed.
  5. Using a jigsaw and sander, round off the leg pieces where each leg forms a knee.
  6. Install the leg strips in the center of the supporting structure, without deviating from symmetry. For example, if the length of the legs is 1 m, then their main and counterpart parts can be half a meter long (not counting the roller mechanisms). The width of the legs can reach up to 15 cm, thickness - according to the number of layers of plywood.
  7. Attach rotating casters from the Joker brand furniture designer to the bottom of the main box. They are placed on size 10 bolts and give the structure the functionality of a transformer.
  8. Install the mating parts of the legs on the furniture bolts. Perform a test assembly and check that they operate correctly. To prevent loosening of each “elbow”, large washers are installed (grip washers can be used).
  9. To avoid any difficulties when unfolding, synchronizing bars are installed on the moving parts - like those that are placed on the upper and lower passenger seats, folding tables in train cars. They make it possible to quickly fold and unfold the workbench without unnecessary movements.

The workbench is ready for further modification.

Tabletop

After making the box and the “running gear,” mark and cut out a tabletop from a new sheet of plywood. It should be slightly larger in length and width than the box. For example, if the size of the box (top view) is 2x1 m, then the tabletop has an area of ​​2.1x1.1 m. The difference in the size of the box and the tabletop will give the latter additional stability.

Some power tools, such as a saw, will require a sliding tabletop made of two diverging halves. The circular saw is positioned so that the part being cut does not move across the travel of the saw blade. In this case, guides (including a metal profile) will be required to prevent the halves of the tabletop from moving apart in a different plane. Here, specially bent pairs of profiles (tenon-groove type) are used, where the tenon and groove run along the entire length of the profile (and the tabletop as a whole).

In the simplest case, a regular corner profile is used: the upper part of the corner slides along the supporting structure, the lower part prevents the diverging halves of the tabletop from moving across. This table top works as smoothly as a vice. Here the sliding tabletop partly replaces a vice without clamping jaws.

There is no box with drawers in such a workbench - it would interfere with work, and it would be impossible to clamp the workpieces with the tabletop. To fix the tabletop halves at a selected distance from each other, longitudinal lead screws with locking and lead nuts are used, as in a real vice, or clamps.

Carpentry workbench design

A carpenter's workbench is a special work table for a carpenter, on which a worker can process wood manually or mechanically. The most common workbench design is suitable for performing basic types of work:

  • fix wood products or its main parts for further processing;
  • develop sketches and diagrams;
  • keep all necessary tools at hand;
  • thanks to its convenient structure, assemble wooden structures at any stage of work;
  • use as a workplace for painting and varnish work.

To carry out all these operations on a homemade workbench for carpentry, you must initially build it in accordance with all standards and norms. It is advisable to take into account the basic requirements and know the “composition” of the design. Basic parts and parameters of a homemade table for carpentry:

The table for carpentry work must not only be fully equipped, but also meet certain parameters:

  • The height of the machine for carpentry work can vary from 85 to 95 cm. This height will be the most optimal.
  • The dimensions of the working surface may vary. The most popular option is a rectangle with sides 183x91.5 cm.
  • The support legs and other parts are made individually and can therefore have different sizes.

When making such a table, it is important that the craftsman himself is comfortable performing various manipulations in the process of working with wood. Therefore, all parameters can be selected individually

Types of carpentry workbenches

Homemade surfaces for carpentry are divided into 3 types:

  1. The mobile table for carpentry work is a compact design, weighing about 30 kg. The length of the working surface reaches 1 m, and the width is only 0.7 m. A structure of this type may consist partly of metal parts. This type of table is used when working with small wooden parts. You can install a workbench in any part of a small workshop.
  2. The stationary table for carpentry work is characterized by large dimensions. This type of workbench is not intended to be moved. Typically this is a wall-mounted workbench with a vertical screen for tools. Additionally equipped with numerous drawers and shelves. Due to its large size, it can be used for processing wooden parts of any size.
  3. The composite type is a collapsible structure, the parts of which are connected by metal bolts. If necessary, parts of the working surface for carpentry work can be replaced or folded out. This is a complex type to manufacture, but very functional and practical in working with wooden parts of any size.

Each type is designed for a specific type of room and type of woodworking. If you sometimes need to make repairs or manufacture parts, then a mobile type of joinery surface would be an ideal option. If the work is carried out at a professional level and constantly, then it is better to make a stationary type of workbench.

Video description

About the organization of the workplace in the following video:

  • Single pedestal. Reliable prefabricated structure with a reinforced table top and a weight of 96-105 kg. This workbench is equipped with both a comfortable work surface and a cabinet with drivers (drawers on ball guides of different heights) or adjustable shelves. The drawers are locked with a central lock. Some models are equipped with a dashboard.
  • Double-pedestal. The weight of such models is 100-115 kg; They are equipped with two drivers with drawers of different heights. The maximum permissible load on each drawer (if evenly distributed) is 30 kg. The kit may include a perforated screen - a panel designed to accommodate holders and hooks.

Combination workbenchSource searsoutlet.com

Recommendations

For clearer contact, the contact points between the parts are coated with wood glue. Strengthen glued joints using ready-made furniture corners or cut-off corner profiles. Strengthen corner joints where there is no contact with the drawers using triangular spacers.

A folding workbench is hardly intended for heavy work such as assembling windows and doors. It makes turning operations difficult to produce massive parts weighing dozens of kilograms. For “heavy” work, it is better to assemble a stationary wooden workbench that can withstand a weight of more than one hundred kilograms.

Regardless of how long the workbench is, it can be foldable (including a transformer). A one-room apartment or a small country house of 20-30 square meters is unlikely to allow you to place a stationary workbench that cannot be folded. Be guided primarily by the square footage of the living space. The same advice applies to an outside utility room or garage.

Do not use plywood less than 15 mm thick or made from soft wood types for the tabletop. Such a workbench is only suitable for sewing work or activities that do not require the use of brute physical force.

Do not work on a workbench with strong reagents, especially if there is frequent splashing. For chemically active work, special tables and stands, for example, made of glass, are used.

The video below provides step-by-step instructions for one of the DIY folding workbench options.

Recommendations

Working at your new desk should be comfortable.

  • If the master is right-handed, then you need to attach a sharpening machine to the left side, and a vice to the right.
  • Since work often requires a power tool, an extension cord can be installed on one of the legs. The block is secured with plastic clamps (stationary) or using a groove in the extension body. In the latter case, it can be removed.
  • If you want adjustable legs, weld nuts with coarse threads (the largest you can find) on the bottom. Then you need to screw in the bolts on which the table will rest. The use of wheels in a mechanic's workbench is unacceptable.
  • The metal base of a homemade workbench must be grounded, since power tools are often needed during work.
  • Don't forget about lighting. One source should illuminate the entire working plane, and the other - on a flexible tripod - is used for local illumination. You can also use flashlights. The main thing is that the light should fall from the left (for right-handers) or directly.
  • It is necessary to regularly clean the countertop from chips and debris.

Work bench

Hand-made home workbenches are widespread in the West. They contain a table top bordered by walls.

They are usually made from pine or spruce. But it is quite difficult to manufacture, and its generally short length does not allow it to fully work with long bars and lumber.

Manufacturing instructions

To make the tabletop, cut two pieces with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet of maximum length, then you need to saw off one piece 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After this, use the rule to check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing. High-quality gluing ensures that the tabletop parts are clamped with clamps. To properly glue the plywood sheets, they are folded with their convex sides facing each other. Having laid one workpiece on three parallel laid boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched spatulas. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. recommends connecting the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not confident in the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time restrictions. Of course, the strength of the connection will be slightly reduced, but even a good quality PVA furniture mixture will provide an acceptable degree of gluing. To avoid damage to the workpiece, place support boards under the clamps. Having placed the second workpiece on top of the first, place support boards along the perimeter of the future table top and begin tightening the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using a rule. It will not be possible to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg. You can glue plywood sheets into a board without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient weight. After drying glue, remove the clamps and begin to strengthen the side surfaces of the tabletop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued along the entire perimeter of the lid in two layers. When performing this work, be sure to make sure that the top layer completely covers the joints. Reinforcing the side parts of the workbench table with additional plywood strips. To trim the side surfaces of the table, use a circular saw. The parquet is driven smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm, observing right angles, for which they use a carpenter's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet. The workbench supports are made of timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with legs and drawers, for which lumber with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm is used. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height. Making the frame of a carpentry workbench The legs are assembled “in a tenon” or using dowels, be sure to apply carpentry glue to the parts to be joined. When assembling the upper and lower frame of the bench, 90 degree angles between parts are scrupulously maintained. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, even at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are trimmed correctly. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the bottom leg of 150 mm. Assembling the underbench To attach the table top to the underbench, long drawers are drilled in three places, through which the workbench parts are fastened with 8 mm self-tapping screws not long less than 100 mm. Installation of the tabletop on a benchtop To prevent the head of the hardware and the washer from protruding beyond the support elements, a recess is made in them with a feather drill. Holes made in the parts with a feather drill will help to hide the bolt heads and washers

If desired, you can build a shelf in the bench. To do this, a plywood panel is cut to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Types of workbenches

Craftsmen divide all workbenches, made independently or purchased ready-made, into several main types. Basically, the division is carried out according to the type of work performed on them, as well as the presence of additional tools.

  1. Metal workbench. It is used primarily, as the name suggests, for metalworking work on metal. To withstand the load and minimize damage from contact with the workpiece, it is better to make such workbenches with an all-metal high-strength cover. In addition, it is not recommended to use flammable materials for another reason that metalworking often involves the appearance of sparks.
  2. Wooden carpentry workbench. Used primarily for woodworking. The lid can be made from solid or laminated wood. The main requirement is that it must be perfectly flat, without drops and curvatures, called “helicopters”.
  3. Universal workbench. Combines the main advantages of the previous two types. It can have two separate tabletops, or can be converted from one type to another using an overlay metal sheet, fixed at the edges and accompanied by additional tools.

For any of the listed varieties, you can expand the functionality by adding a tool to the workbench you have made. This could be a light source with a movable leg, an organizer for tools and materials, measuring instruments built into the surface, and much more.

In addition, to save space, you can assemble a corner workbench. It takes up less space, while the presence of two walls opens up the possibility of arranging tools in a free-access area. A carpentry workbench of this type is most convenient for use in a small workshop where there is not much free space.

Purpose

First of all, a carpentry workbench is intended for direct work with wood. Therefore, its tabletop must have a rigid fastening. If desired, it can be equipped with additional elements and tools that expand functionality, such as a carpenter's vice.

Making it modular will save space in your workshop. So, it can be supplemented with various drawers and cabinets that will house tools, sorted by type and purpose. The back wall will also not be empty - it is perfect for placing small fasteners such as screws, clamps, etc.

When choosing a design for a future DIY workbench, you should consider the following points:

  • what will be the nature of the predominant planned work performed on it;
  • how much free space is there in the room;
  • what additional functions and modules are required, whether it is necessary to supply electricity and place stationary tools and machines on the workbench.

If you think through these issues in advance, you won’t have to make changes to the design later and wonder how best to remake this or that element.

Making a joiner's table

When constructing a table, one of the important criteria is its height and equipment with the necessary devices. Using the drawings of a carpentry workbench you made yourself, you can make similar tables, only smaller in size and in different configurations.

When creating a large stationary workbench, the location for its installation is chosen in advance. There must be several 220 volt outlets for connecting electric tools.

So, to make your own carpentry workbench you will need:

  • circular saw and jigsaw;
  • electric plane;
  • electric drill with a set of drills for wood and metal;
  • screwdriver with screwdrivers;
  • tape measure, square, level;
  • set of sockets and wrenches.

In addition to the listed tools, you need to prepare wooden elements without rot, cracks and large knots. Namely:

  • bars for legs 10×10 cm;
  • boards at least 6 cm thick for the tabletop (if necessary, knock two 3 cm together);
  • boards and plywood for shelves and drawers;
  • boards for the frame 5 - 6 cm thick and 150 - 180 cm long;
  • furniture bolts, washers, nuts, self-tapping screws.

To avoid mistakes, you need to sketch out approximate drawings of the workbench in advance and indicate the dimensions of each structural element.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a workbench

Before assembly, all materials are carefully planed and polished using power tools. All wooden elements must correspond to the specified dimensions. The step-by-step instructions are as follows:

  • The upper frame is made. To do this, prepare boards of the required length. Then they are twisted with self-tapping screws into a rectangular structure. In the middle of the rectangle, several spacer strips are attached for reinforcement. The width of all elements must be the same.
  • Prepare the lower frame. It has the same dimensions as the top one. All its parts are well fastened with long and thick self-tapping screws.
  • Powerful support legs are made from 10x10 cm beams. They are planed, chamfered and ground. Then they cut 80 - 82 cm long. You need 4 of them. Mount the supports using bolted connections to the upper and lower frames. The distance from the floor to the edge of the lower frame is about 15 - 20 cm.
  • A tabletop consisting of boards 60 - 70 mm thick is assembled onto the assembled frame. The edges of these boards must fit well together so that there are no gaps. To do this, they are driven through a special calibration thicknesser, which makes them the same thickness. The edges of the tabletop should protrude 7-10 cm beyond the frame. After installing the working surface, it is well sanded and impregnated with hot drying oil.
  • Install a carpenter's vice with your own hands directly into the body of the table top. It doesn't take much time if you already have them ready-made.
  • A recess is created in the tabletop, which allows the clamping jaw of the vice to be positioned in the same plane with it. The vice is secured with bolts and nuts, the places for which must be milled. This is necessary to flood the heads and washers of bolted connections.
  • At the other end of the workbench, an ordinary small bench vice is sometimes installed. In addition to all this, several holes are drilled in the tabletop to secure round workpieces. They also provide wooden stops with which to hold the parts during processing.
  • The underbench space is filled with drawers or shelves for storing tools and small workpieces. They are made independently or taken ready-made from unnecessary chests of drawers and desks. For such boxes, special modules are made that have guide strips and flooring.

The result is an original carpentry workbench, made with your own hands and adjusted to your height. Now all that remains is to install several sockets with a voltage of 220 volts nearby on the wall for operating power tools and begin making wooden products.

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