Review of tool steel grades and coatings: what is HSS and its varieties, analogs, application, carbon steel, TiN, TiAIN, TiCN, Black and others

Which steel is better r9m3 or r6m5

With what?
I'm not very familiar with quick cutters. There is one r6m5 knife. It doesn't seem bad. This is where my knowledge ends. And about p9K 5, I haven’t even heard anything at all. Logically, cobalt should make him completely evil? I heard. I'll take it with cobalt

Or just R6M5? (without K5). How will he behave? Or don’t bother with quick-cutters and take a ShKh15 from a good blacksmith and not bother?

Now I'm scratching my head. Which is still preferable))

Now I'm scratching my head. Which is still preferable))

Not familiar with p9? What properties does cobalt provide?

Not at all like that. The presence of cobalt makes steel more resistant to overheating, slightly increases hardness, and makes it more brittle. (Not to be confused with increasing the amount of cobalt in hard alloys).

Not at all like that. The presence of cobalt makes steel more resistant to overheating, slightly increases hardness, and makes it more brittle. (Not to be confused with increasing the amount of cobalt in hard alloys).

That is, p6m5 would be better for a knife? Shouldn't you mess with p9k5?

Not at all like that. The presence of cobalt makes steel more resistant to overheating, slightly increases hardness, and makes it more brittle. (Not to be confused with increasing the amount of cobalt in hard alloys).

Well, then explain what structures cobalt forms and how it interacts with carbides?

Cobalt quick-cutters are the most resistant, but where does the data on increased fragility come from? Even based on the assigned cutting modes, this is not the case.

Well-prepared carbon is one of the best options for a knife.

Well-prepared carbon is one of the best options for a knife.

Wrong. ShKh is more fragile compared to forged R6M5K5. Cobalt quick cutters are VERY different from regular ones, even when cutting metals. You are not competent enough in this matter.

Wrong. ShKh is more fragile compared to forged R6M5K5. Cobalt quick cutters are VERY different from regular ones, even when cutting metals. You are not competent enough in this matter.

If you think I am not competent enough on this issue, maybe you can give a more detailed answer.

Source

Tell me a normal set of dies and taps

Good afternoon everyone. I would like to talk about the first experience of using metal-cutting tools from the Tomsk plant - TIZ. Let me start with the fact that, by the will of the AEROFLOT company, the luggage, in which everything was located, arrived three days later than me, for which not a single bitch apologized =)

Actually about the instrument. An unnecessary piece of metal corner, 4.5 mm thick, was chosen as a test subject. I drilled 15 holes in it with a 3mm drill from the kit, I posted the photo above. Drilling one hole at first took about 50 seconds (measured), by the end it took a minute and a half. I drilled at medium speeds, fixed for the purity of the experiment. The drill cooled down between the holes for about 30-40 seconds. Then I drilled three holes with an 8.5mm drill for M10 threads, the remaining 12 with a 6.5mm drill for M8 threads. I’ve already posted photos of everything I used to cut. I cut the M10 twice with a TIZ tap - no complaints. The third M10, for comparison, is an unnamed tap with 4 cutting edges - it is heavier than the TIZ. Next - 11 M8 threads with a TIZ tap - it goes well, I didn’t feel any difference between the first hole and the last hole. There is no damage to the tap after this action, only minimal traces of use on the teeth. The outermost, 15th hole was also cut with M8, but with an old Soviet tap marked with a spark pencil P18 - it goes much, much easier, more confidently, and if all the previous taps produced very small fragments of chips, then this one produced chips up to 1.5 cm in length. But, in any case, TIZ marksmen get credit. The thread does not crumble, the turns are even and deep. The price-quality ratio is at the proper level.

Now about the drills. The impression about them is ambivalent. On the one hand, they completed their task. The 3mm drill drilled 15 holes, which I didn't really expect. There are almost no signs of wear on the drills. Not a single one was broken. They more or less hold the edge. The metal appears to be indeed P6M5. And they are inexpensive. Among the disadvantages is the initial sharpening, it is not the best, the drilling speed is low. It is imperative to core, and decently, otherwise it will slip. There is a suspicion that large drills are hitting, but there could still be a drill... My opinion on drills is for infrequent use, or for rough work. They will work out their price of 700 rubles for a set of 19 drills 1-10 in increments of 0.5.

In the process, I took a couple of photos on a point-and-shoot camera, but they didn’t turn out to be of very high quality and, in fact, don’t reflect much. Upon request, I will attach it here. If I’m still in Tomsk, I’ll buy more taps in reserve) Thanks to everyone who completed this post.

Rating of the best sets of taps and dies

Now you know the key features of choosing taps and dies for thread cutting. Next, we present to you the TOP 10 best sets, which are distinguished by good equipment, excellent characteristics and have received positive reviews from users.

Types of taps and their purpose

The purpose of taps varies, so each type of work requires its own tool. Let's talk about the main varieties.

Image No. 2: Tap device

1. Manual/machine. Choose the option that is designed for the appropriate type of work. In this case, pay attention to the design of the product (screw, straight, with shortened grooves).
2. Nuts. Single tool for straight through threads. It is longer than the machine-manual one and has a sharp approach, similar to the first number of the complete tap.
3. With cut thread. The tool is suitable for processing sheets and cutting holes in plate metal.
4. Locksmiths. Designed for manual cutting of holes. Supplied in sets consisting of three tools (roughing, finishing, medium). The work begins with a rough hole, the hole is adjusted with the middle one and polished with a finishing element.
5. Conical. Suitable for threading through holes. The intake part of the products has an incomplete thread, and the calibrating part has a full thread.
6. Poleshechnye. Suitable for making pre-threads. They have large intake cones.
7. Uterine. Used for cleaning threads. The main difference from other types is the presence of a spiral on the right side.
8. Grooveless. Suitable for long-term work with high productivity. The product has a short receiving cone base without longitudinal grooves, which reduces the likelihood of breakdowns.
9. Combined. These are products made up of two parts (roughing and finishing, connected by a neck). The combined type tool reduces the time needed to complete the work. For example, you can buy a tap drill that is suitable for both drilling and tapping.
10. Special. Products have a narrow specialization. This type includes attachment, ship and tandem taps.

P9 or P6M5

Good day. Tell me what is the difference between high-speed steels R9 and R6M5 if they are used for a knife blank. The thing is that at the bazaar I found a semi-bald industrial metal saw with P9 markings, 2.3 thick, the owner said that it was still a Soviet one - so I’m wondering whether to take it or not?

it goes without saying! But about what is better P9 or P6M5? Of course it is clear that both will shave.

Almost any piece of iron will shave if properly sharpened.